Ongoing clutch nightmare.

[Bs6VR6 10]

Right, having a total mare bleeding clutch.

Brakes have been done and are fine, clutch I assumed would be the easy part, I'm being proved very wrong.

Initially tried using the 2 person pedal method. Couldn't get any pedal and was a struggle to get any fluid out the slave bleed nipple. Removed slave and attempted to back bleed through the slave using an improvised squirter bottle. All this did was turn the slave inside out, I essentially prolapsed my slave cylinder. Mint then.

Ordered and collected new Pagid slave. Also got eezibleed kit. Attached this to new slave, opened slave bleed valve and joy of joys torrent of air then clear fluid. However still no pedal. Fluid would only travel out of slave with clutch pedal depressed, once lifted back up, fluid would stop flowing??

Attempted to try 2 person method again and managed to get half a pedal yet with the next pedal push and bleed valve open lost all pedal again?!?! This would repeat with the best result being half a pedal and yet when you attempt to clear remaining air you would suddenly loose all pedal again?!

Noticed the flexi line was swelling a bit and making a funny noise, is this the cause? Is my master cylinder dead? Should I just give up and buy a Honda? Loosing the will with this now. Just need a clutch and she's ready for the MOT. Nightmare.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Max,

 

Edit:- have had all three components removed and sat on shelf for a year and half, could this have damaged the master? Slave is brand new pagid item.

Edited May 6, 2015 by Bs6VR6

[Supercharged 2]

Hmmm... fluid should flow just under the Eezibleed pressure - no need to touch pedal.

 

I think the slave must have gone but maybe the MC's been damaged or maybe the feed pipe has collapsed internally?

 

It maybe the master seals dried out

[Bs6VR6 10]

Thanks for the reply supercharged, I don't think I explained it clearly. It does flow just under the eezibleed, but only with the clutch pedal down. If you raise the pedal whilst the fluid is flowing it suddenly stops.

The fluid appears to run clear but still no pedal. You can move fluid just by using the 2 person, pedal pumping method but at best we manage to get half a pedal with a bit of guts but then the next pump it will go completly.

Is the flexi on the clutch line supposed to move and swell a bit then? I might check the feed to the master as I only used a spare bit of fuel line. Wondering if it's not a complete seal could it be sucking air back in through here? Seriously running out of ideas and don't want to have to replace line and master if it's not needed!!

 

Cheers,

Max,

[sankysvr6 0]

Like Supercharged has said, the fluid should flow on its own with the eezibleed kit. You shouldn't have to press the clutch pedal at all.

 

How much pressure have you used with the eezibleed?

 

Are you getting fluid out of the nipple on the clutch master cylinder, when the eezibleed is on.

[Bs6VR6 10]

Hey,

 

Sorry tried to clarify above. Fluid did flow with eezibleed kit but only when clutch pedal was depressed. If you lifted the clutch pedal the fluid flow would stop. Checked spare tire at garage it was on 19. Fluid appeared clear with no bubbles but still no clutch. I have no bleed nipple on master as it is the original vr6 one.

 

Cheers,

[sankysvr6 0]

I got that "Fluid did flow with eezibleed kit but only when clutch pedal was depressed", but that's not right.

 

19psi? that might have been to high, I know the max is 20psi on the instructions. I usually only put 10/12 psi through it, as I'm sure I've read that somewhere.

 

I didn't realise the VR6 master cylinder doesn't have a bleed nipple? it does according to the parts catalogue, got a picture just to make sure we are on about the same thing.

 

It does sound like master cylinder is faulty.

 

Depending on how creative you want to get, you could connect some sort of hose from the reservoir straight to the slave cylinder. Then connect up the eezibleed and see if fluid is flowing out of the nipple, with no pressing of the pedal.

[sankysvr6 0]

Okay so I didn't read about the pressure, I heard it from the manufacture of the kit. LOL

 

 

I know the Corrado isn't 50years old, but always best to be safe.

[Bs6VR6 10]

Yeah I did think that was right myself, as long as the pedal was down fluid would flow no issue, if you raised the pedal it would stop completely?!

It was probably a bit less than 19 as I did relese a bit from the valve before hooking it up. The master cylinder is the original, so probably 20+ years old now. But the weird thing is I took the end of the line out the slave and got my mate to press the pedal and it was putting out fluid. Also when you bleed it the 2 person way it would shift fluid out the slave. So it's pushing fluid. But it won't get a firm pedal, and we got half a pedal a couple of times but then it would just go to the floor again.

You reckon the master is shot then? Because I'm fresh out of ideas. Something so easy hey!

 

Edit:- yeah seen that vid mate, but it's got new resevoir, new slave the only old parts are the master and the line itself!!!!!

[sankysvr6 0]

From what your saying the master cylinder is the only mechanical part that's left, Its where I would put my money on.

 

By the way where did this nightmare start from. Were you just trying to do a fluid change?

[Rorgasm 10]

I have had a similar problem over the weekend & changed the slave, I'm not overly convince I've totally sorted it out yet. I was getting nowhere until I bled the master cylinder first (I did have a bleed nipple but it is on a Valver) then moved onto the slave (using the two man technique). Did take time though & I swear I only have half of the clutch control I had before so I can't help but think my master is at fault. When you pull the pedal does it spring back in to place or is it limp all the time??

[Bs6VR6 10]

I have rebuilt the car from the shell up mate so all 3 components have sat in a garage for a year and a half. Think that's where the nightmare began. All worked fine before it was taken off the road. Now replaced slave cylinder. Might just bite the bullet replace the master and the line and be done with it. Just so frustrating as I hadn't even budgeted for this as I assumed it would work as it did when it was removed. Bloody corrados.

 

The best we could manage was for the pedal to firm up, would release from the floor but wouldn't return to its full upright position and just felt limp.

Really appreciate the time guys, and any other ideas would be great before I she'll out but I think your probably right, master is at fault!

[Rorgasm 10]

That's as far as I got, with the pedal firming up but not returning properly & now after a couple of days it has started springs back properly (Obviously this only helps if your able to change gear) so weather I had trapped air I don't know:shrug:. It does sound like the same problem so I would be very keen to hear weather changing the master solves the problem.

 

I agree it is very frustrating but worth it in the end.

 

I removed a master cylinder from my G60 about a year ago & when I looked at it over the weekend it wasn't working properly & needs slinging out so they obviously don't like sitting around with out being used.

[sankysvr6 0]

I think sometimes, we all know what the fault is in the beginning. But we just don't want to believe it, so we come on the forum asking a question to which we already know the answer of. LOL

 

Or is that just me :-)

 

Good luck with it, and let us all know how you get on.

[Bs6VR6 10]

Right, I've decided to get a braided clutch line made up from master to slave and going to order a new master cylinder from a link on German ebay. Same pedal fitment as mine so no need to change that. Only difference is the high pressure outlet comes directly out the back rather than at 45 degrees. Solve this with a 90 degree adaptor out the master that then attaches to braided. Should hopefully have it all by the end of next week.

What a pain in the arse, assumed this was gunna be a 10min job, x£'s and 1 week later hopefully it'll be sorted!! They do test you don't they?!

 

Sanky:- your probably right mate, I'm in denial!

 

Cheers

[sankysvr6 0]

Just had a thought, is your clutch pedal fully up when you ezzibleed?

 

Maybe try to bleed it again, but hold the pedal up to start with.

[glen.owen.140 10]

I have replaced my m/c with the same one you talk about with a braided line and new slave and mine will not bleed up spent hours I have a mechanic coming tomorrow to pressure bleed he said its the only way sometimes

[Bs6VR6 10]

Sanksy:- we tried it, wouldn't allow the fluid to move with the pedal up, is this a sure sign the MC is knackered?

 

Glen:- that's reasuring to hear��! I managed to find a company that did a Delphi MC, same layout as the one in the German ebay link but is advertised as OE quality so should be ok. Again has no bleed nipple on the MC which could be the cause of the bleeding woes and why pressure bleeding is necessary. I may still try the syringe back bleed method from the slave? Have you tried this? Pleas keep me informed as to how you got on as looks like I'll be doing the same next week.

 

Cheers,

 

Max,

Edited May 9, 2015 by Bs6VR6

[glen.owen.140 10]

I tried every way to bleed. the one that worked for me was pedal up and push the slave in had the slave in and out about 20 times I keep getting 1/2 a peddle. Mechanic is coming at 2 I will let you know and add photos of my set up

[Bs6VR6 10]

Superb, look forward to it. I'll do the same once mine arrives, hopefully be of use to others hey.

Thanks mate.

 

Max,

[glen.owen.140 10]

 

You don't get any studs with this type of master cylinder

[Bs6VR6 10]

Yes mate, that looks the job. Fitment of those new MC looks good, I was thinking of tapping an M8 thread into it and fitting some spare head studs to secure it, but with two people M6 nuts and bolts would be fine hey?! Clutch line looks great. Be interested to know if it feels sharper or more spongy compared to oem, obviously not gunna know till its all bled in properly. Nice work though. Which slave you using?

 

Max,

[glen.owen.140 10]

Master and slave are from Germany ATP both with postage cost only £55

[Bs6VR6 10]

Thats a bargain mate. I feel a bit like ive been mugged off now

[VW_OwneR_85 2]

i think the problem with 2 person push/pump method is once the fluid has been pushed out and nipple closed off your creating a vacum which is why the pedal stays down, im kinda going through the same thing after clutch hose replacement, got a good pedal and all seemd well but then after reversing out the shed being on the clutch alot as its not a straight out drive it slowly started to stay down but with it being in gear still, very dodgy! , either air trapped or internal leaking, had to switch off and pull clutch up, after a few pumps it was fine but im still paranoid about it going again, btw i can hold clutch down in gear without the clutch engaging so that tells me its not internal leaking ?? and feels good and i can change gear no problem,going to pressure bleed from reservoir tomo to cover my bases, dont like pressure bleeder coz my feed hoses normally p155 out..

[Bs6VR6 10]

Just wondering if either of you boys had an update on how it went?

Glen, I noticed you asking for info as you reckon your clutch fork may be bent? I take it the pressure bleeding wasn't a success, hope it isn't anything too serious? Anyway, my bits should be arriving wednesday guys so I'll let you know how it goes my end then.

Bizarrely, went to the garage yesterday and had had the clutch pedal down pulled it up and low and behold half a pedal again? WTF? How can a system that is so simple be so bloody difficult and confusing???

 

Max,