Window regulator repair, the beginning

[fla 9]

I've fitted my window regulator back, all nicely cleaned and lubed but the top plastic elbow has snapped off. No problem I thought, but in fact its actually a significant issue because there is now insufficient tension in the upper cable to pull the window up fully. A really pathetic design, imho, but the problem is now how to solve it.

Looking for some creative assistance to solve this. I have tried using some solid copper wire wrapped around the cable and pulled through a nearby hole. Its improved it by about 1mm, but as you can see from the pics its still miles away from being fully closed.

So in a word, HELP!

Edited August 11, 2015 by fla

[fla 9]

actually looks like this part may be the issue - borrowed this from Vortex:

 

If so, how could this be repaired? They've suggested making some holes either side and using some tie wraps to hold it, but i wonder how you know where exactly to drill.

[fla 9]

No one else had this issue then?

[fla 9]

Does anyone have a good drivers door with a working window regulator for sale? Ideally in aqua blue pearl lc5u?

Thanks

[fla 9]

well i've decided to sell the car, had enough:(

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Only kidding, ive decided to pull it out again and i'll prop up the window with some rods or something similar so at least i can sort out a proper solution and refit the door card etc.

Will need ample supplies of bad language and steel gloves to stop my hands looking like edward scissorhands has attacked them. I've got a few different pieces of dense/hard plastic and some steel plate which may or may not be able to solve the problem.

Lets see what happens...

[fla 9]

Ok here we go...

Use a hammer and chisel to remove the rivets. Disconnect the motor connector and remove it from its metal bracket - it just slides out by might need a bit of persuasion with a screwdriver. Now tape the window into the up position. Pop the arms off the runner.

 

Now the drivers regulator will come out if you rotate it clockwise so the top of towards the door lock and the base towards the hinge. In this instance keep moving the regulator bit by bit until you find that the motor is free and the top appears to be stuck. At this point remove your tape from the window and slide it about 1/3 the way down. Tape it back into position. If you like, connect the window switch and operate until the grey window plate moves down by about 15 cm. You can now lower the regulator and take it out from the gap at the bottom. I found that keeping the arms pointed upwards helped.

 

The yellow piece at the top is what breaks, as below.

 

Needs to be chiselled out. Wear goggles, its very brittle!

 

The rubber bobbins are screw-in. Best to replace with M6 male/male bobbins. They are 15mm in length. I have some 20mm ones, not sure if they will make the motor foul the window though.

 

The joint between the motor and the body needs to be sealed with silicone as this is a major moisture entry point. Not sure if the gasket is available separately.

 

I'll be making up a piece to support the top of the cable sheath and will post pics accordingly. Thats the next step...

[carrots 1]

Hi I've got manual Windows and changed mine with no major problems.taped window to top of seal.drilled rivets,tilted it to the right to get it out.refitting was a bit harder but not to bad.few rivets and job done except I lost winder screw

[fla 9]

used a nylon block to make an initial piece as below. Drilled about half way through with a 6 and then 8mm drill bit. Cut a slot underneath to allow the cable to move under the block. The corrugated oversheath needs to go part of the way down in order to maintain tension. Its a bot fiddly to pull the cable and simultaneously fit the block.

This has been pressed in and then tapped upwards into place. I just need to work out how to fix it in place - thinking of some screws from underneath, but they need to clear the cable.

 

The slot is cut with a hacksaw and opened with a triangular needle file.

 

I've seen a profile on Vortex which has some arms over the top so i'll modify this accordingly so it doesn't slide down. The other option is to use a large connector block and screw it in place from underneath and fill the void with liquid metal.

 

As an aside, i removed as much of the rivets as possible from the bobbins, but there is still some of the head there. Tapped the open end with an m6 tap so if required, i can either screw them into the door or use some threaded bar and fix them to the regulator. Alternatively i'll use some 15-20mm thick rubber on the inside of the skin and screw some m6 bolts.

Edited August 12, 2015 by fla