Rattling @ 3000 revs

[yalan 0]

Can anyone give me any likely suspects.

Only seems to happen at bang on 3000 - 3300 rpm when cold, and only for the first mile or so.

 

Sounds to me a bit like a bearing race spinning fast and dry. Water pump changed a couple of years ago

PAS pump changed a few weeks ago.

 

belts too tight / loose?? anything else ??

 

(2.0 16v BTW)

[scruffydubbers 0]

have a look on you water pump, if its the same as a 1.8 16v you have 2 pulleys on the water pump one drives the pump the other is an idle pulley check this for sideways play, it should nt have any really.

 

had this go on both my valvers, it used to be at a certain revs then it gradually got worse

[Scott 0]

You shouldnt be revving to 3000 - 3300rpm from cold anyway :shock:

[yalan 0]

You shouldnt be revving to 3000 - 3300rpm from cold anyway :shock:

 

you sure? I always thought that 3K was ok for an engine that revved to 7.5 - 8K?

keeping the revs too low would just put too much strain on the engine I'd have thought.

3K is always round about my change up point for 1st / 2nd gear

[Scott 0]

Well in my old 16V Corrado and my VR6 I change at 2500rpm on the dot until I see 80 deg C oil temps.... I would never ever go above 3000rpm with a cold engine (any engine) unless it was an emergency

[polog40racer 0]

Can anyone give me any likely suspects.

Only seems to happen at bang on 3000 - 3300 rpm when cold, and only for the first mile or so.

 

Sounds to me a bit like a bearing race spinning fast and dry. Water pump changed a couple of years ago

PAS pump changed a few weeks ago.

 

belts too tight / loose?? anything else ??

 

(2.0 16v BTW)

 

 

Nothing to do with small end bearings is it? As my friends are going on his G60, you can hear them plain as day when he revs upto about 2500rpm. They tend to go around 100Kmiles mark, what mileage is yours? A '94 should be pretty low i'd thought though.

 

You dont put strain on the engine in low rpm (below 3K) but you do if you labour the engine if your trying to run about at silly low rpm in wrong gear and throttle up slightly.

[G60BoyRacer 0]

yeah i would check the little end bearing (on the bottom of the con-rod to crank shaft) and also if the "knock sensor" is ok, and not pinking. I have had this problem and changed everything but the sensor! Once replaced, car was fine.

[yalan 0]

hmm ..... car is @113K

little end you say? That sounds like a PITA.

I'll do a spot of reading & see if I can narrow down the area the noise is coming from.

Cheers for help so far!

[polog40racer 0]

Yeah, small end bearings are a PITA! Small ends usually go first before your big end bearings.

 

Where are you located?

 

If near Sevenoaks/Dartford, then get down to Race Power Motorsport (01332 386677) and have a word with Andy Boakes (owns a Corrado G60 and his small end bearings are going aswell!) or Jim (enginer builder supremo - probably most respected and best engine builder in the country!) for locating the problem! They will help you alot! Aint a plug for them but they did build my race engine and loads of other stuff! And engien for the VW Cup racers. :wink:

 

Paul C

[kvwloon 0]

have a look on you water pump, if its the same as a 1.8 16v you have 2 pulleys on the water pump one drives the pump the other is an idle pulley check this for sideways play, it should nt have any really.

 

had this go on both my valvers, it used to be at a certain revs then it gradually got worse

 

I'd definately check this out first though before you start tearing the engine apart! If you look at the alternator,there is a belt that runs from the alternator down to the water pump pulley. The water pump pulley consists of the outer pulley (driven by the water pump), and the innermost (closest to engine) pulley, which just idles, i.e. it's not driven directly. This runs on a sintered thin liner. Once this starts to break up there is a load of play and metal to metal contact between the driven and non driven pulley, and it sounds clattery and horrible at certain revs at first, and then eventually at all revs.

Quite common. Worth looking at the cheap fixes before the expensive ones I reckon! Think you can temporarily slacken the alternator drive belt off so the idling pulley is no longer made to turn when the engine is running, if noise no longer present, then that's probably the culprit, and if noise still present, you can tick that off the list of possible causes. Assuming your engine configuration is same as 1.8 16v KR engine of course?!

[G60BoyRacer 0]

I would definetly try having the timing checked, for what it will cost before you start striping the bottom of the engine down.

[yalan 0]

Cheers for the advice so far guys.

Had all the ancillary belts off at the weekend to try to identify where the noise was coming from. Still there even with water & pas pumps disconnected.

 

Had the drivers side wheel off & noise seemed loudest down by the crankshaft rather than the top of the engine bay.

 

I would definetly try having the timing checked, for what it will cost before you start striping the bottom of the engine down.

 

RE the above - if timing was out, surely the noise would be there the whole time & not disappear after 1 minute of driving??

 

Any more suggestions - or is it a call to the nearest engine rebuilder?

 

Annoying thing is I can never demo the noise without leaving the engine to cool for >4 hours ...........