MZpog 10 Posted May 5, 2016 About 18 months ago I was my alternator gave up the ghost and caused me to run out of electricity (not good) so a new (refurbished) replacement was bought from ebay. Within a few weeks the refurb unit started dropping it's volts from the normal 13.5 to somewhere in the 12's and if load was added, voltage would drop below 12. Mr ebay seller was advised and he duly sent out a replacement which has been fine, unit now and seems to be starting it's voltage drop so I think another replacement will be bought (anyone got one for a valver kicking about) Anyway it got me thinking what's causing the death of alternators, is it plain bad luck or could my ICE be drawing to much for the poor thing to cope (I doubt it with just one amp) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted May 5, 2016 Is all the wiring ok? When i replaced my alternator i had the wiring re-made. Basically just a new earth wire with connections crimped on Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted May 5, 2016 Is all the wiring ok? When i replaced my alternator i had the wiring re-made. Basically just a new earth wire with connections crimped on The wiring appears to be all ok Jim. Did you add an earth wire to the alternator or just use one for the feed? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted May 5, 2016 If you want a cheap alternator, I removed a working one from my vr6. It was working fine, I just got a good offer of a shiny new 120a one at the time. My car has air con so i needed to know i had a larger amperage one. This one worked fine but has no identification markings on it so I can't say what size it is. I will happily put a picture up and it would only cost you the postage. Unless you could collect from Sheffield or Nottingham. Just an option Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted May 5, 2016 If you want a cheap alternator, I removed a working one from my vr6. It was working fine, I just got a good offer of a shiny new 120a one at the time. My car has air con so i needed to know i had a larger amperage one. This one worked fine but has no identification markings on it so I can't say what size it is. I will happily put a picture up and it would only cost you the postage. Unless you could collect from Sheffield or Nottingham. Just an option Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk Whilst a cheap alternator seems to be required, I think the VR6 has a different alternator to those fitted on a 2.0 16V Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted May 5, 2016 No worries. Good luck Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted May 5, 2016 (edited) Check the "blue exciter wire" for kinks, breaks, poor connections. It goes between the battery terminal and the alternator's regulator. If this has a bad connection then the alternator will not provide charge ... VR6 uses a 90A alternator by default. Some cars with air-conditioning were fitted with the 120A. But I don't think you have an alternator fault. Edited May 6, 2016 by dr_mat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted May 6, 2016 Checked the voltage at the battery last night (rather than using my Ebay special cig lighter volt meter) and voltage seem fine at 13.8. Also checked at the alternator and got similar voltage. Maybe it's not dying after all. I think I'll buy another anyway to my spare's pile. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted May 6, 2016 This was with the engine running presumably. Electrics on? It's OK but would like to see it pushing 14.2 without any electrical load. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted May 13, 2016 Checked the voltage at the battery last night (rather than using my Ebay special cig lighter volt meter) and voltage seem fine at 13.8. Also checked at the alternator and got similar voltage. Maybe it's not dying after all. I think I'll buy another anyway to my spare's pile. Spare purchased and fitted and under full load (all lights, heated rear screen, heated seats etc) it's showing 13.8 at the battery. The Ebay special cig lighter volt meter was showing 12.8 so it's either kaput or my there's a voltage drop on the cig lighter wiring. Glad I changed it as found the nut that goes on the end of the long securing bolt was missing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sankysvr6 0 Posted May 13, 2016 I've got Fluke meter at home you can borrow, so you can check it properly. But I think you need to check the voltage with no load. You want around 12V to 13V Then start the car and take another reading. You want around 14.2V to 14.7V, anything higher you will be over charging. Then put all electrics on and take another reading. You still want a reading around the 14.2V area. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted May 13, 2016 I've got Fluke meter at home you can borrow, so you can check it properly. But I think you need to check the voltage with no load. You want around 12V to 13V Then start the car and take another reading. You want around 14.2V to 14.7V, anything higher you will be over charging. Then put all electrics on and take another reading. You still want a reading around the 14.2V area. Thanks for the offer but happy it's working fine with the readings I got from my meter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted May 13, 2016 Shut the car off, turn all the electrics off then wait half an hour. Then measure the battery voltage idle. Fully charged is 12.6v. "Won't start the car" is about 11.6v. 13.8v is OK with electrical loads on, but not OK otherwise. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
