Robbo149 0 Posted July 6, 2004 I think I know the answer to this one but I thought I'd check with you guys. To add to my ongoing cooling problems, I've now noticed that the top rad hose is getting really hot while the bottom one is staying cool! is this a symptom of a knackered thermostat? Cheers, Robbo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhatVR6 0 Posted July 6, 2004 yes, replace it with a genuine vag one, and make sure it's installed with the bypass valve thingy at the top. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Robbo149 0 Posted July 6, 2004 Cheers Phat, think I'll replace the housing too. Good turn out last night btw. Robbo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhatVR6 0 Posted July 6, 2004 yeah, cracking turnout, the most I've seen anyway! almost 30 cars I reckon!! replace all the coolant plastics and seals, only costs a few quid, and well worth it. as I said last night, I replaced all of mine, all plastics, hoses, clamps, seals, pump, fresh G12+ coolant. switchess, fan switch. it's never over heated once since. water temp never goes over 80 on a run, never goes over 100 even when sat in traffic in hot weather. and I haven't even got a fan controller on there yet! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Robbo149 0 Posted July 7, 2004 Update on my cooling system probs - I've had my car in with a local auto electrician for 2 days!!! The problem turned out to be down to the big round multi plug at the rhs of the engine. This had water in it & 7 or 8 of the contacts were fooked! They've tidied it all up & the fan's now working as it should, the aux pump is getting power but not working (knackered pump?!), am I right in thinking the aux pump should run all the time? But the temp gauge still isn't working?!! Wiring all seems to be ok, it's a new sender, so what do you guys reckon? broken gauge, or could it be a duff sender? The auto electrician says without wiring diags he's stuck as the sender wiring goes via the ECU. Cheers, Robbo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhatVR6 0 Posted July 7, 2004 well, for a start I'd go through every single wiring connector, disconnect them, one by one, squirt WD40 in the and connect and reconnect them a few times to clean up the contacts. not sure on the auxillar pump. I thought it only came on to circulate water around the head after you'd turned the engine off? you could do with VAG-COM to check if the ECU can actually see the temp reading from the sensor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Robbo149 0 Posted July 7, 2004 Cheers Phat. They've rewired the multiplug & cleaned up all the contacts, so the wiring side of things is all ok now, so I guess the only 2 possibilities are the sensor or the gauge itself. I don't suppose you know anyone round my neck of the woods (Leeds area) with VAG-COM do you? The place I normally go to only has a generic Bosch system, not sure if it'll go into enough detail. As for the aux pump, I'm sure it used to run all the time with the ignition switched on before everything went tits-up. Cheers, Robbo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhatVR6 0 Posted July 7, 2004 Well, I've got VAG-COM, not too far away from you, Stamford Bridge, other side of York. I can't confirm on the pump, as none of the 3 vr6's I've had had the fan controller in them so the pump never ran on any of them. I know it's contorlled by the yellow coolant sendor though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Robbo149 0 Posted July 7, 2004 Ah... I wonder, the yellow sensor is also the one for the gauge AFAIK. If the pump is getting power but not working, it could be a duff sensor. Is it possible the dodgy electrics wrecked the new sensor I put in last week? Thinking about it, the sensor I got was from ECP & it was black, not yellow, but it fitted, so I didn't worry about it... Robbo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhatVR6 0 Posted July 7, 2004 weird, the sensors are colour coded for easy identification. blue for ecu water temp sensor yellow for gauge and fan/pump control balck for air con. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted July 7, 2004 The pump should run all the time, and if it's getting power and not spinning that would suggest it's knacked! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Robbo149 0 Posted July 7, 2004 The sensors on mine were (L to R) - yellow 4 pin, blue 2 pin (ECU), & black 2 pin. Looking at ETKA though, there are 2 types of black sensor - 2 pin like mine or 4 pin for cars with aircon. I wonder if I've got the 4 pin version of the right hand one, & hence the wrong one? Mat, I thought the pump should run all the time, so I guess that's not down to the sensor. Cheers, Robbo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhatVR6 0 Posted July 7, 2004 you need a yellow one mate..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Robbo149 0 Posted July 7, 2004 Guess so :roll: Robbo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mariovr6 0 Posted July 8, 2004 hello back to a old question i think the aux pump does stay on at all time , ive just changed mine and i can hear it if i listen carefully when keys are in and its turned off!! i got major probs with my cooling too!!! someone please tell me on the aux pump does the downward part of the aux pump connect to the heater hose and the side ways one towards the expan tank??? thats what it says in the manule but it dont look right as that means its pushin it back towards the the exp tank cos the is a arrow on my aux?? someone please ave a look??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
