Start then Immediately Stall Issue

[FrankyEight 10]

Hi guys,

 

I've got a stalling issue with my 1995 2.0 16v; I'd say around 2-3 times out of 10 when starting the car, it will start and then immediately cut out. When this happens a second try will normally fire it up as usual but sometimes will take three times to start properly. I have a new battery, new spark plugs and I've checked the connections of the black transponder box for the immobillisor which seem to be fine (although I still have my suspicions that the immobilisor is still somehow the culprit). The occasions when this stalling seems to happen I think more often than not are when the car has already been driven that day (although I'm sure it has happened in the past on first start up of the day). Anyway, really struggling to find out what is causing this. The car has no problem starting up most days and on this cold morning (for instance) it fired up immediately as if it were brand new.

 

Regarding the causes, could it be a faulty temperature sensor/switch? (I'm not getting great mpg, difficult to get late 20s on motorway, oil temperature often reads between 110-118 mark), fuel pump relay? (but I do hear the pump every time I turn the key), another issue with the Clifford immobilisor? (if I havn't started the car after 30 seconds the immobilisor will activate, in that situation and upon disabling the immobilisor the car will then often take a few seconds of turning before starting roughly).

 

Apologies for this badly written query and if I've babbled on —*just tried to convey as much info as possible, any help or advice greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

Edited October 10, 2016 by FrankyEight

[VEEDUBBED 0]

The next time it plays up, get a mate to sit in the driver's seat whilst you, with the bonnet open and ht lead disconnected

with a screwdriver wedged inside the lead, see if you get a spark whilst cranking over, Put the screwdriver up against a metal part of the engine first though.

Check the spade connectors on the coil, they sometimes get loose. Could also be a dodgy hall sender in the distributor.

I don't know how the immobilizer is wired in but you could always try by passing it by connecting a +ive feed directly from the batt's +ive terminal onto the +ive side of the coil, that way you'd also be bypassing the ignition switch too..

Start with the simple stuff first though.

Edited October 10, 2016 by VEEDUBBED

[Harrier 1]

Sounds like a typical factory imobiliser fault

[FrankyEight 10]

The next time it plays up, get a mate to sit in the driver's seat whilst you, with the bonnet open and ht lead disconnected

with a screwdriver wedged inside the lead, see if you get a spark whilst cranking over, Put the screwdriver up against a metal part of the engine first though.

Check the spade connectors on the coil, they sometimes get loose. Could also be a dodgy hall sender in the distributor.

I don't know how the immobilizer is wired in but you could always try by passing it by connecting a +ive feed directly from the batt's +ive terminal onto the +ive side of the coil, that way you'd also be bypassing the ignition switch too..

Start with the simple stuff first though.

 

Thanks for the advice, will report back.

[FrankyEight 10]

Sounds like a typical factory imobiliser fault

 

I suspected this too. But how can I diagnose it? TBH I wouldn't mind just taking the ancient thing out completely. Is that a wise thing do and have others done this? I guess there are obvious security implications as well as insurance issues to consider here...

[Jim 2]

Not sure if th 2.0 16v suffers from that classic VR6 in-key immobiliser problem. Was that system fitted to models other than the VR?

[Harrier 1]

Not sure if th 2.0 16v suffers from that classic VR6 in-key immobiliser problem. Was that system fitted to models other than the VR?

 

I believe they all had it from around 94/95 on,

 

Could probably be confirmed as faulty with vag com, I think they can be removed but it's usually the transceiver ring around the ignition barrel that plays up

[FrankyEight 10]

Ok, thanks.

I've actually just found the receipt for the 'Clifford Concept 300' alarm, fitted in 2001 with the old alarm system removed at the same time. Is this separate to the immobilsor? Not sure if imobilisor if factory fitted or was fitted new with the Clifford system?

 

Just spoke to the company that fitted the Clifford alarm system. They reckon the system itself is pretty reliable and that my particular system doesn't have a transceiver ring. Reckon he tended to a mk3 Golf with similar symptoms before and the ignition barrel itself was at fault.

 

Think I'm gonna be on this one for a while...

Edited October 10, 2016 by FrankyEight

[agb1980 10]

I had same issue couple months ago, I've got aftermarket alarm immobiliser but there is still factory fitted immobiliser that recognises the key. I read on here somewhere to spray the wire going into the immobiliser transpnder with WD40 and refit. There's a black wire running from the plastic collar around the ignition that goes to the transponder behind the dash. Just take off the plastic under steering wheel and remove the tray by bonnet catch. Connection was very loose on my car, sprayed and refitted not had issue since. Might be worth a shot...