CV boot split

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If you do it yourself, make sure you've got a torque wrench that can go up to 200 pounds at least. The torque required is 195 pounds, so you'll need to chock the wheels with bricks when undoing the nut.

 

The best grease is I've found is Castrol Graphite grease, which is nice and cheap. Put plenty on but obviosly don't fill the boot with the stuff.

[Geo 0]

Pics of cv joint removal tool showing how it works:

 

 

 

 

 

[yalan 0]

so just like a big slide hammer then ....... ?

nice idea I suppose. Wonder how much easier it would have made mine. Would still have pulled the entire shaft out though!

[Geo 0]

I've done loads of cv joints with it and I've never come across one that failed to come off after max 2-3 smacks with it. Great tool. Makes the job very easy.

[yalan 0]

suppose it pulls it off nice & straight.....

 

When I finally got mine off, yyou could see that the circlip had been far tighter on one side than the other. I guess however much you try to hammer each side evenly, hammering would never be as good.

 

bet those things cost a few quid though...... ?

[Geo 0]

I got it a few years ago. Only cost 40 quid or something. A guy came into the garage where I worked selling them so I got one. He said he came up with the idea and made them himself. Never saw them anywhere else since.

[markmcie 0]

Do you need to get tracking checked when you replace your boot. Replaced my passenger side one last weekend and had to get re-tracked. Now the f#@king drivers side is split.

 

On the passenger side I removed the 3 ball joint bolts so I could free the hub etc.t away from the driveshaft. If I manage too seperate the ball joint using the proper tool (and not removing the 3 bolts) will I still have to go and get re-aligned. Boot is only 5quid and time is noting but alignment cost me 60 euro (cause of seized bolts). If I can avoid knocking out the alignment it would be ideal.

[Henny 0]

if you split the ball joint instead of removing it from the arm, you won't have to re-set your tracking as it can only go back exactly how it came to bits... 8) Should save ya some cash there... 8)

[markmcie 0]

Super :)

 

Torque wrench and ball joint serperator are on the shopping list.

 

Cheers for the info :mrgreen:

[Bally 0]

if you split the ball joint instead of removing it from the arm, you won't have to re-set your tracking as it can only go back exactly how it came to bits... 8) Should save ya some cash there... 8)

 

GRRR!! wish I knew that, would have saved me getting the car re-tracked! :cry:

[RobyD 0]

All done now. Decided to just do the boot, the joint appeared to be fine but its hard to tell.

 

Wasn't actually too much of a pig to do, the joint only needed a little 'tapping' with a copper mallet. Ball joint was a b***h to get out from the hub housing though :roll:

 

Now i've done that it looks like the other side will need doing in the next 6 months :roll: