My Dads old 2.0l 8v Corrado Overheating.

[NickHall55 10]

Hi,

My old mans Corrado is overheating bigtime.(His engine type is ADY 2.0l 8v)

 

First thing I checked is the small pipe on the side of the reservoir tank to see if any water runs back in when its running, nothing. After about 5-10 mins of running and while we both stared at the engine swearing badly,both looking clueless, all of a sudden water started gushing from the coolant reservoir tank, more swearing followed before quickly shutting off the engine.

The air around Blackpool that night was very very blue. Is this pointing at a knackered waterpump?

 

From my research it looks like quite a job to get to. (going to a garage is out of the question due to our finances, or lack of).

On this type of engine do you have to remove the cam belt to get to the waterpump? If so, no chance I can help.

 

From my online research I see other possible issues are:-

 

Thermostat, again a £^*&%^ to get to I think.

Head gasket, lets not even go there!!!

 

Any input/help would be gratefully received,

 

Cheers,

Nick.

ps This car in my opinion always has been a &^%^&%^$!

[SR_Neale 10]

Where exactly did the water come from? The expansion tank? Was the hose still attached? Was the cap on? What colour is the oil? If its a creamy colour then you could have head gasket issues.

[NickHall55 10]

Hi,

Water came out of the expansion tank, gushed/boiled out fast. Oil looks normal.

Thanks,

Nick

[NickHall55 10]

Oh ye cap was off.

[SR_Neale 10]

Are the radiator fans kicking in?

[seanl82 23]

Doesn't sound good I'm afraid. Water pump is would have to be pretty knackered to cause it unless its simply not pushing any water around. Yes its cam belt removal to replace. Should be changed with every belt replacement anyway really. I can't remember where the thermostat is on these engines but unless it was jammed shut (default position is open when they go as the spring tends to force it open), so unlikely its causing this pressure, but its relatively cheap to replace so worth a shot.

Its obviously pressurising quite a lot and if there has been no work on any of those areas recently, it can only point to failure of one of the components or head gasket.

[carrots 1]

are the hoses going hard very quick

[NickHall55 10]

Since posting this earlier I have checked the fan and it doesn't come on. We have swapped the radiator switch before so I can swap that tomorrow. Head gasket sounds likely and expensive, oh dear.

[carrots 1]

get it skimmed aswell

[NickHall55 10]

@carrots

 

The top large pipe on radiator gets hot and "harder", the bottom large pipe on radiator stays cool but not hard.

[SR_Neale 10]

Mis read your last post if you leave the cap off it will come out. As the water heats up it expands and the excess water is pushed into the expansion tank as the water expands it creates pressure so as the water got hot it came out as the cap is required to maintain pressure. I don't know about on a 2l 8v but on the G60 you don't have to take off cam belt to change water pump. Cant see them changing the design that much.

[NickHall55 10]

Am I right in thinking that water enters radiator from the top and comes out the bottom?

I just had it running with the fan on all the time (shorted the connections on the plug), needle gauge on the dash went upto 110 C, oil was around 90, what is the "norm"?

[Spuddy 10]

Cambelt does not need to be removed to get get the water pump off on these engines. They are still old fashioned and driven by the auxiliary belt. Easy enough job. The waterpump is in a large housing which also contains the thermostat, so change both when it's apart. You will need to remove the power steering pump, but leave the pipes attached and just move it, you will also need to remove the alternator and bracket for that to remove the pump housing. The headache can come when removing the alternator bolts as they are long and can foul the chassis leg. To solve this, slacken the engine mounting nuts/bolts and raise it untill the bolts will clear. Airbox obviously needs to be removed also.

Its an afternoons work providing all the bolts cooperate lol

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[Spuddy 10]

Also when the engine reaches the temp of the thermostat, that opens and allows can't to pass through the bottom of the rad up and out of the top hose back into the engine.

 

The top hose will get slightly warm as the engine warms up but this is just heat bleeding..

When the thermostat opens and 87 degrees the bottom hose will go from Cold to very hot very quickly. This is showing the thermostat is working. If it does not do that before the car reaches 100 on the gauge I'd say there is a thermostat problem atleast.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[NickHall55 10]

Well I have just fitted a new radiator fan switch unit on the radiator and seems a ton better. My old man is gone out in it now (taken my mobile just in case), fingers crossed.

Of course when it boiled the other day he had steam coming in through the vents and the rear carpet is soaked, heater matrix I presume and after reading various articles job looks like a nightmare.

So new middle box, sort out heater, maybe. This car has been a pain ever since he bought it back in 96, and being a stubborn old fart he wont get rid.

Anyway thanks for all the help so far, really appreciated.

Nick.