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Jim Bowen

VR6 Timing Chain

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While i was doing the timing on an engine i thought i'd take some pics to show the various timing marks etc (using a bit of advice from Vince at Stealth racing)

 

I wasn't replacing the lower chain this time but can show what you want to achieve when timing the bottom end.

 

Mark on the pulley, i stick some tape to the outside of pulley to make it easier to see quickly when turning it.

20170409_120347.jpg

 

First thing to note is the ground tooth on the crank sprocket

20170409_120300.jpg

 

If you look closely there is one tooth that has been ground so its different from all the others. This will want to line up with the seam on the block.

20170409_120253.jpg

 

On the intermediate sprocket there is an arrow, and you want that pointing vertically up, i found for each complete turn of the crank pully this arrow will move 90 degrees, so you may have to turn the crank a few turns. I had no cams in the engine at this point, but if cams are installed you will probably hit them with the pistons

20170409_120316.jpg

 

Another bit to note (this is what Vince told me), once you think the intermediate marking is lined up, check from above that you can see the little notch in the plastic, if you don't see this keep turning crank pulley until the sprocket mark is vertical and you can see the notch from above

20170409_120326.jpg

 

Cam want fitting so the smaller lobe is on top, the cam locking tool only fits one way anyway

20170409_120400.jpg

 

Once your at this point, i find it easiest to leave one cam sprocket off, fit the upper tensioner, drop the chain in to intermediate sprocket and one cam sprocket, and then fit the other cam sprocket to chain and then push it onto the cam, after all in place i then fit the black plastic guide.

20170409_120417.jpg

 

All fitted

20170409_124030.jpg

 

Nice way to lock the crank when using an engine stand

20170409_125311.jpg

 

After all is fitted, fit the upper chain cover and tensioner bolt and then turn crank pulley 4 complete turns and all the marks should end up where they were.

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Is that really all it takes?, I've always thought it's a real tough job and requires some esoteric knowledge only passed between engine builders from the planet zog.

 

Great post

 

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

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Its nice and straightforward when the engine is out - as this brilliant thread and pics show. Great info Jim thanks for the details.

I did mine when i took the block out but rechecked the timing with it in situ - which wasn't so easy..

Its just the time required to take it all out though

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Just about to look at getting my block back from the engine builders so need to look at chains....

Since the parts are obsolete from the main Stealers... and I flatly refuse to give VW Teeside http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/shop/VR6-Timing.htm - £377 for a kit that was £150.. can anyone recommend or advise which parts they have used? I can only find the Fibi Bilstein kits which don't have the revised non-rivited parts.

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Thursdave on here works for VW in the parts dept.

 

Ford used the VR6 in the Galaxy (shared platform with Sharan and Alhambra - Merc in the Vito too), so there's another outlet to try for bits

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Morning Dox, yeah I did wonder that... I really wanted the revised non-rivited parts... problem is the first thing they ask for is a Reg or chassis number.

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Could you look for a Galaxy VR6 for sale on Autotrader or similar, and just use the number plate from that to give to the dealer? :)

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Morning Dox, yeah I did wonder that... I really wanted the revised non-rivited parts... problem is the first thing they ask for is a Reg or chassis number.

 

Ford dealers sell old stock on ebay with pictures and full spec on listings. Galaxy 12v v6 - they tend not to use VR6.

 

I've bought chain guides a few years ago and 4 out of 6 sexy red plug leads lol (£8-£10 each)

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