Timo. 0 Posted July 16, 2004 I know there are quite a few threads on this already but they haven't quite answered what I want to know....like how to do it step by step. The guy that owned the car before me says he had advanced the timing a bit and that that was the reason it idled so high sometimes. I have found reading some of the threads, which have given me a rough idea but if someone could give me a step by step method (that dont use fancy tools and a novice to g60 can use) I would be very greatful. Sorry for covering this again but its beginning to annoy the tits outta me and I've only had the car two days. Cheers Timo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 16, 2004 Have you had a look on the SNS website? http://www.snstuning.com I'm not technical at all so I don't know if it will be of any use, but there is a guide on there about how to retard and advance the timing.. seems to explain everything you need to know from what I can see! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 16, 2004 yeah i've looked at that. My main question is, what do you do after you have twisted it? Rev the engine to see if it knocking/pinking etc. If so, how much do you rev it by..... and so on. Its more the minor details like that, that I am not sure about. Dont want to go in there feet first and screw everything up without knowing every thing I want to..... plus I'm a wee bit scared!! :roll: It so much more complicated than my vr6. Well, I think it is anyway. cheers Timo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted July 16, 2004 what is the car doing for you to feel the timing is out on it ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 16, 2004 idle is crap, cant get it any lower than about 13-1500 most of the time, which is annoying. Worse when its cold but it doesn't get much better when warmed up. Dont suppose you know what resistance the blue and black coolant sensor should read when warmed up?? I've measured them both when trying to diagnose the culpret of the bad idling. I then noticed the sensor leads were plugged into each other sensor. When I switch them back to there own sensors the car does the black smoke, sputtering when driving at 60!! :roll: . The idlle problem also remains which ever. I know the sensor are exactly the same just different in colour so surely they should read the same resistance. They are different by a long way, but I'm not sure which ones shot. Suppose for the cost of them, I may aswell change them both. The end :( Timo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted July 16, 2004 sound lile blue cts up the shoot and also lambda... where abouts are you feel free to pop in for a free health check if you are anywhere near the south coast... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 16, 2004 He's in Scotland.. about as far away as he could be from you unfortunately Darren! :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 16, 2004 Nowhere near you mate, live in SW Scotch-land. There's no problem with fuel economy so I'm guessing that means the lambda probe is ok?!! Worth getting new temp sensors though, eh? cheers Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 16, 2004 He's in Scotland.. about as far away as he could be from you unfortunately Darren! :( nice one mate 8) Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 16, 2004 Odd running and belching black smoke sound very lambda probe related.. Tempests G60 was doing the exact same thing. Its amazing how a probe can make the engine sound and behave like its on its last legs! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 16, 2004 would it not give bad fuel economy??, and it only happens when I switch round the connectors on the temp. sensors. Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted July 16, 2004 change both of them sensors sould be around £12 for the 2. can really make a big differance/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 16, 2004 cool, i'll get it them ordered next week. Cheers Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 16, 2004 Order them from Euro Car Parts by the way mate to get em for the £12 mark - Stealers charge more than that for the black coolant sensor alone! :shock: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 16, 2004 also make sure that the switch on the throttle body for the idle position is closing properly... The bracket it's attached to bends slightly over time so it never closes the switch properly meaning that you get mad idle speeds... ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 16, 2004 That switch looks fine but I shall double check tomorrow. cheers Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 17, 2004 Right... Been having a play around with it this morning. I found a spare blue temp sensor in the garage for a vr6. Checked the part numbers and they are the same so I switched it over with the one that it in. And the result is the same. If the blue plug is connected to the blue sensor it runs shite. Chuggs along with black smoke when you are trying to cruise and sometimes when idling the car starts spluttering black smoke. According to bentley both the blue sensors are within range when engine temp is up to normal. Car runs fine when the plug blue is connected to the black sensor (which is definitely had it!!, idle is still crap but it does go well bar that!) What the hell is wrong with the damn thing? Might test the lambda sensor Timo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 17, 2004 Apologies to you all. Tried unplugging the lambda probe (with the temp sensors plugged in the right way round) and went for a run. No problems at all. The idle is less, it still isn't perfect but its a lot better. Mid-run I decided to just make sure and plugged the lambda probe back in, and it starts the black smoke, spluttering trick again. Quite chuffed now. Is it worth cleaning the probe first before getting a new one? Thanks for all your help Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g-master 0 Posted July 17, 2004 Not sure about cleaning the probe, as for a new one i brought mine from Euro car parts £90 + postage :wink: Mine was doing the same thing loads of black smoke and running very rich. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 17, 2004 £90 :shock: :shock: :shock: ......................... :cry: :cry: :cry: Maybe next week 8) Timo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 17, 2004 Well at least my diagnosis was correct... for once ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 17, 2004 Could I use one of those universal lambda probes you can get from gsf? If so which one, there are many different numbered wire ones? I.e. 2 wire, 3 wire, 4 wire etc... I guessing I'll need the 4 wire one?! cheers Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tempest 0 Posted July 18, 2004 Got my Lambdaprobe back in February for approx. 20 quid from someone over in Germany, used, and for a Mk3 Golf (I think), but that doesn't matter, as long as it's the heated variety and hasn't done too many miles. In the meantime you can safely drive around with your existing probe disconnected, the ECU then assumes a Lambdavalue = 1. Tempest Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tempest 0 Posted July 18, 2004 I.e. 2 wire, 3 wire, 4 wire etc... I guessing I'll need the 4 wire one?! You need a sensor with 3 wires (2 white wires for the heater circuitry, one black wire for the actual signal), this plugs into a 4-pin connector: 1. white - red/white 2. white - brown 3. brown (connected to chassis bracket) - black , NB: the brown wire stick out from the connector at the sensor end, but doesn't actually lead to the probe, just connects to the bracket, to which the connectors are attached, as it's only a GND-shield 4. black - violet HTH, Tempest Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted July 20, 2004 cheers ma man!! 3 wire it is then. Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
