fendervg 33 Posted March 13, 2018 I must admit, being a new owner, the parts situation is a bit of an eye opener as to why so many of have been broken. I had wrongly assumed the Corrado was mostly built from parts from other VW stock and didn’t realise some were bespoke. In terms of other pumps – I’ve seen some that look very similar but differ in the last bit of the part number - they end in 117 instead of 217. Would this work - might even be worth a punt if it’s only £30? I have seen some ending 217 B but they look like completely different units. I think the 117 part is for G60s etc, with only four outlets. For a VR6 you will be looking for a six-outlet pump unit, and will also have components for EDL/EDS built in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted March 13, 2018 Most Corrados have been broken because the value of there parts far exceed the prices they could achieve for the cars whole at that moment in time. Its not only the pumps that are unreliable, the pedal sensors are problematic too, dash lights as well as relctor rings and the wheel sensors themselves, not to mention water ingress into the ECU via a leaking windscreen. Couple that with the fact most scanners wont connect / read the codes. My car arrived with the light continually on, a scan with VCDS pulled loads of faults, a front wheel sensor put the light off so I could get the cars first ever MOT pass. The fault then went intermittent, I replaced the pump with a used one and that got rid of the inlet / outlet valve faults (after a replacement ECU had no effect what so ever) and then I had intermittent pedal sensor faults, a reconditioned (re-soldered) pedal sensor has put the light out permanently ( for the time being at least). So don't be surprised if there are multiple issues if the light has been ignored or bypassed for ever and a day. People have said there's just enough wiring to connect to a pump for trial without disturbing the hydraulics on the original unit, I've not tried it myself but maybe worth a go before you rip out the old unit and have the tedious job of trying to expel all the air now in the brakes lines. All this was before the Wheeler Dealers episode was screened with the help of this forum and its members posts. Ah, it's a primitive system for sure - but no worse than any other of that era, and I've rarely come across a 25+ year old car with no ABS issues, if fitted. The sensors and rings are service items anyway and should be replaced regularly or when they go faulty in the case of the sensors. The pedal position sensor is a bit of a weak link, but the ABS light is a simple circuit where most often the bulb blows from having been on all the time (easily replaced) and the ECU failure due to water ingress is also pretty rare. One problem is that these systems don't like being sat around for long periods of time, so if a car has been off the road, there will be issues for sure, and there's also a tendency to fit cheaper after-market sensors after seeing the price of new ones from VAG. The later Teves 20 retrofit system is much more reliable and better designed, but they also give trouble as this age, and it's a lot of work to collect all the parts and fit for not a lot of return - but parts are easily available and an MOT pass is guaranteed! Overall braking performance is not much better though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks2 0 Posted March 15, 2018 Checking the solenoids in the valve bank on the G60 pump is fairly easy. If there is sufficient interest I can post a quick how to guide? I've not looked at the electric motor but I guess I could include that too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted March 15, 2018 Go for it, always good to share knowledge. I'm sure it doesn't differ much between them all Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites