Schrick VGI induction flap

[Geeba 0]

Hello all,

 

Just a quick question, has anyone that owns a Schrick VGI run it without the induction flap?

 

I'm having a few issues getting the butterfly back in and working correctly, its fine until you tighten the bolts... then it locks solid... admittedly I need to spend a bit more time looking at it maybe a wipe of wet'n'dry will help.

 

But me and my mate were looking over it, he does a lot of Porsche stuff and he was not entirely convinced on what it actually added as it not changing the length of anything like a varioram or adding more air... it just opens 2 x 3 ports into 1 x 6 ports. he suggested milling a blanking plate and leaving it open..

 

All I can see is you might loose a very minimal amount of torque low down, which hopefully I should offset with the capacity increase and higher compression ratio.

 

Anyone running without it?

[Dox 22]

If I'm understanding you properly if you disable the flap you may as well just run the standard mani, if you modify the schrick it will be worthless? And that's £1K down the drain.

 

I've not stripped mine, but can take a pic of how its fitted as is?

[Geeba 0]

Hiya Dox

I wont be modifying the manifold just ensuring the flap opens and closes freely... I think its just where I had the butterfly off for cleaning its not gone back together exactly the same.

 

`Its just that, my mate has done a lot of work for Ruf on the CTR3 so know his stuff and he cant see what the flap actually adds? as after 4k (in factory setup less if you desire) its fully open anyway.... and all the gains are after the flap opens :(

 

So I was just thinking of blanking it off... not welding it or changing it of course ;)

[gazvr6 10]

Hello all,

 

Just a quick question, has anyone that owns a Schrick VGI run it without the induction flap?

 

I'm having a few issues getting the butterfly back in and working correctly, its fine until you tighten the bolts... then it locks solid... admittedly I need to spend a bit more time looking at it maybe a wipe of wet'n'dry will help.

 

But me and my mate were looking over it, he does a lot of Porsche stuff and he was not entirely convinced on what it actually added as it not changing the length of anything like a varioram or adding more air... it just opens 2 x 3 ports into 1 x 6 ports. he suggested milling a blanking plate and leaving it open..

 

All I can see is you might loose a very minimal amount of torque low down, which hopefully I should offset with the capacity increase and higher compression ratio.

 

Anyone running without it?

 

Is there any play in the flap bearing? Does it turn with the actuator attached? You can adjust the actuator rod so that it applies abit of downward pressure onto the mechanism. I've had it with mine where it catches slightly, i just removed a little bit of material from the inside of the manifold where flap sweeps so to speak.

 

As dox says, without it it pretty much is a standard manifold apart from the tuned inlet lengths- this is why when the flap is closed (under 4k) you get the increase in torque.

 

This was the best thing i did when my vr was n/a for noticeable gains and works brilliantly with my current s/c set up.

 

Hope this helps mate

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Geeba 0]

Is there any play in the flap bearing? Does it turn with the actuator attached? You can adjust the actuator rod so that it applies abit of downward pressure onto the mechanism. I've had it with mine where it catches slightly, i just removed a little bit of material from the inside of the manifold where flap sweeps so to speak.

 

As dox says, without it it pretty much is a standard manifold apart from the tuned inlet lengths- this is why when the flap is closed (under 4k) you get the increase in torque.

 

This was the best thing i did when my vr was n/a for noticeable gains and works brilliantly with my current s/c set up.

 

Hope this helps mate

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ahhhh ok - I thought the gains were after the flap opened... got-ya! ;)

 

Yeah its exactly that, it catches.. out of the manifold its smooth and operates fine, I'll just have to spend more time on it.

 

Cheers Gaz! :D

[gazvr6 10]

Ahhhh ok - I thought the gains were after the flap opened... got-ya! ;)

 

Yeah its exactly that, it catches.. out of the manifold its smooth and operates fine, I'll just have to spend more time on it.

 

Cheers Gaz! :D

 

No probs mate! Yep pretty much like the standard manifold after 4k to give flow.

 

When i first got my schrick the actuator was fooked causing the flap to stay closed which meant loads of low down torque and then it just felt strangled after 4k with no switch over!

 

Get it working, you won't regret it

 

 

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[dr_mat 0]

They are notorious for this, you will likely find that you need to mill the faces of the manifold and the inlet runners so they're perfectly flat - otherwise as you torque it up it pulls out of true.

 

As others have said, the flap is the whole point of the device, without it you have an expensive paperweight. Tell your mate that with the flap closed the inlet runs as two separate narrower airflows which improves torque (massively) at low-mid rpms using resonance (+8 psi I am led to believe), while with the flap open it runs as a single wide airflow which promotes top end power. The "flap open" configuration matches the standard inlet manifold almost completely, only then addding offset inlet runners to even up the inlet length between the front and rear cylinder banks - but this only adds a few hp at the very top of the range so you probably wouldn't even notice it.

 

 

A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT.

[gazvr6 10]

They are notorious for this, you will likely find that you need to mill the faces of the manifold and the inlet runners so they're perfectly flat - otherwise as you torque it up it pulls out of true.

 

As others have said, the flap is the whole point of the device, without it you have an expensive paperweight. Tell your mate that with the flap closed the inlet runs as two separate narrower airflows which improves torque (massively) at low-mid rpms using resonance (+8 psi I am led to believe), while with the flap open it runs as a single wide airflow which promotes top end power. The "flap open" configuration matches the standard inlet manifold almost completely, only then addding offset inlet runners to even up the inlet length between the front and rear cylinder banks - but this only adds a few hp at the very top of the range so you probably wouldn't even notice it.

 

 

A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT.

 

That's very similar to what i said, except you seem to know what you're talking about

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Geeba 0]

Cheers fellas

 

I'll definitely spend the time sorting the flap out, it did work perfect before I stripped it for painting, so will only be time and some patience to rectify ;)

[Dox 22]

Is it just a case of adding a thick-ish gasket? Too stop the flap going too far inside?

 

Do you still want the TT vented rear brakes?

Edited March 12, 2018 by Dox

[Geeba 0]

Yeah I reckon a gasket of some description would do the job.

 

I've since read that the TT rears are almost impossible to fit to the corrado? I was thinking it would be a bolt-up scenario like the MK4 Golf :(

[Dox 22]

Purpletom has done the vented upgrade, but as photobucket has struck again you canr see the pics anymore.

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?82193-Purple-Tom-s-VR6-Back-on-the-road

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91682-VW-Polo-sealed-bearing-upgrade-rear-stub-axles-hubs-and-powdercoated-disc-shields