Clutch low bite point and now cannot select gears

[maff 10]

Since getting the vr6 back on the road the pedal has never felt normal, only having pressure halfway down and a low bite point, have managed for the last month though.

 

Took it down to a pals garage last night and we put a power bleeder on the slave and master which brought the pedal back a bit but this morning i couldn’t select 1st?

I’ve ordered a slave for £35 from heritage so hoping this fixes the problem as prices for the master are near £200 unless anyone has a link to a better buy?

 

Also the pipe which goes from fluid reservoir to master doesn’t look the best but there are no leaks anywhere?

 

We did try bleeding it by pumping the clutch pedal to start but it kept wanting to drop to the floor when doing up the bleed nipples?

[1200 bandit 10]

Had this fault on mine (only 2.0 16v)Replacd the clutch master clylinder.Bleeded the system by gravity did not pump the padal.Just fit a clear tube to the nippel crack off and gravity will do the work.

This is how bleed the brakes and clutch system on mine

[fendervg 32]

My bet is on the clutch slave - and it's also the cheaper and easier option to replace - sometimes you won't see it leaking as it collects inside the bell housing.

 

The only problem is that if the slave is on it's way out the master won't be far behind, so it's often a good idea to do both at the same time if they are original ones.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Clutch fork bent?

[maff 10]

I’ve ordered a slave from heritage as the masters are for left hand drive cars but fit apparantly? hopefully the slave fixes it..

 

So i need to look under the clutch pedal for a bent clutch fork correct?

[Jim Bowen 1]

Nah the clutch fork is within the gearbox/clutch area, quite hard to check

[Dox 23]

When the slave seals go you'll find a puddle of fluid under the car

[fendervg 32]

Only when it dies completely - before that you will get difficulties getting into gear, slow pedal return or "jump" to at rest or pedal to the floor. They can show all these symptoms with no visible signs of leaking until you take it out - I had one where the rubber boot on the push rod was leaking very slightly.

 

It's easy enough to replace the slave anyway and they are not that expensive, being a thankfully common part.

[a_riot 0]

Only when it dies completely - before that you will get difficulties getting into gear, slow pedal return or "jump" to at rest or pedal to the floor. They can show all these symptoms with no visible signs of leaking until you take it out - I had one where the rubber boot on the push rod was leaking very slightly.

 

It's easy enough to replace the slave anyway and they are not that expensive, being a thankfully common part.

 

For sure. You use the thing enough, you want it to feel good, and not do damage to the clutch, so a new slave cylinder is a good idea. I bleed the clutch with a large syringe and hose, and pull fluid from both the master and slave, only pumping the pedal a few times between pulls. Seems to have worked the best for me.

Edited March 8, 2019 by a_riot

[maff 10]

Had the slave delivered but also ordered a master and the hose form the reservoir, hopefully this will sort it

[fendervg 32]

Watch out with the master - there are two types with different connectors for the push rod to pedal - one with a loop on the early cars, and then one with a ball end and a plastic clip for the later ones. It's possible to fit a late one to an early car but you need to replace the clutch pedal to take the new type fitting.

[a_riot 0]

A word of warning when you remove the slave. If you happen to use a ratchet and extension, when you undo one of the bolts, it's possible to get the head of the ratchet stuck against the long transmission bracket. If, like mine, your ratchet direction switch is on the back of the head, good luck, you're stuck! At least this can occur on the US cars.

[maff 10]

Was gonna get a pal to sort the car but i thought i’d have a bash at fitting the slave myself and didn’t take me long at all, borrowed a power bleeder from my mechanic friend and she lives!

Well chuffed with myself as pedal feels great and everything is back to normal, i’ll probably keep the master i bought for a just in case backup

 

Couldn’t believe how easy it was

[fendervg 32]

Good to hear - yes, the slave is a fairly easy job to do - glad to hear it sorted it for you, and definitely hang on to the master as no doubt you will need it sooner or later.

[Dox 23]

So with the old slave now off what's wrong with it?

[maff 10]

When i removed the slave from the gearbox the push rod separated from the slave,(stayed inside the gearbox housing) and looking inside the slave it was leaking so the internal seals had failed by the looks of it.

 

I cheated when bleeding the slave as used a power bleeder which connects to the battery, awesome bit of kit.. just waited until all the air bubbles were gone and cranked the bleed nipple back up.

 

Clutch feels spot on now with the bite point where it should be as well.