itruk 10 Posted January 21, 2020 Hi all! Trying to work though my niggles and next is a biggy - the electric windows have given up (both drivers and passenger). I've had a read of the various thread on this but I'm still none the wiser. So I took the driver door card off, and pressed the switch.. I can hear something trying to engage in the motor, and also clicking from the rear passenger card. I gave the motor a tap in case it was seized up. Wiring and connections all seem good. Fuse #14 is good, but couldn't locate the relay that I've read about. Central locking doesn't work either. What's next on the check list? lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 29 Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) Sounds like the motors could be seized and on their last legs. The clicks will be the relays and control module operating. It's strange for both to go at the same time though, so could be switch or wiring related. Seeing as you have the door card off, an easy test is to get a small 12v leisure battery and apply current directly to the motor at its loom plug connector. This will definitively prove if the motor is dead or or alive. You can also test for current at the loom end when operating the switch. Replacements can be hard to come by and are pricey even second-hand. There used to be a US company that sold a generic set that would fit, but I'm not sure if they still do. Arz tuning used to do replacements as well, and for a while VW Classic Parts had the left hand mech in stock, but at an outrageous price. When you say central locking - do you mean both doors, boot and petrol flap don't open/close together? There is a signal wire on the door handle, but the system is vacuum operated with a solenoid, so you should hear a slight hiss/sigh from the boot area when it operates. Also the boot lock can be left open or locked with the key, meaning that the central locking won't operate it. Edited January 21, 2020 by fendervg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferarrifeet 0 Posted January 21, 2020 mine done this after it was unused for a couple of years, try moving windows down manually with your hands to free them, they sometimes get stuck because of lack of use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
a_riot 0 Posted January 21, 2020 So I took the driver door card off, and pressed the switch.. I can hear something trying to engage in the motor, and also clicking from the rear passenger card. I gave the motor a tap in case it was seized up. If you can hear something from the motor when hitting the switch, then I'd guess its the issue with the top yellow plastic guide. It seems to get stuck in the guide channel in the up position, and then jam, so when you hit the switch the motor clicks but it can't move the window so it cuts out. To fix it you'd need to remove the regulator and get it unstuck, which may require disassembly of the gear housing to get some slack in the cable to get it to release. I did this with mine, and once I got the plastic guide unstuck, I used JB Weld plastic epoxy in the little crack that developed that caused it to jam, put it all back together, tested it outside the car, reinstalled it and it's worked fine ever since. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
itruk 10 Posted January 22, 2020 Thanks for the replies guys :) On a side note.. where is the relay that is also supposed to be for the windows? and is there a way to test if it's bad? Just seems very strange that both sides have given up at the same time, edging me towards thinking its an electrical fault. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted January 23, 2020 You should be able to see if the motors are powered when you press the window button with a test light/bulb on the motor power in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 29 Posted January 23, 2020 As above, test for power first, especially as you already have the door card off. From vague memory the control unit is behind the driver's side rear door card - not sure if there's a separate relay, could be just the x-relied load reduction one in position 4, marked 18. Maybe fuse 14 as well, which is listed as being for heated seats and washer nozzles and the power window relay. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
itruk 10 Posted January 30, 2020 So I had a go at this the past weekend! So both door cards off and noticed straight away that the inside of both doors was damp along the inside bottom. Guessing it's coming from the window and running down. Unplugged the motor connector and it was damp.. great news I thought since this could be the problem! Cleaned the contacts with some wet n dry paper, sprayed contact cleaner and leave to dry. So armed with a battery and wire, place on each pin... WINDOW WENT DOWN!! swapped wires on the pins.. WINDOW WENT UP!! Success! Same again with the passenger side, it all worked! So, damp was my issue all along. Stuck some Vaseline in around the pins and then electric taped them both up good. :cheers: Gonna take a look at the central locking next. Can this be tested the same way (battery and wire)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted January 30, 2020 You definitely need a battery and wires for your central locking to work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
