Sorry another question on wheels, this time it's about ET's!

[ABV-VR6 12]

I'm sorry to ask another question on wheels but it's not something that I fully understand.

I would really appreciate the help!

 

Before we start, here's my setup:

Corrado VR6, H&R coilovers, DE brake in front and MK4 in rear.

As for the drop, I still want to fully see the 45 tyre so not too low.

 

The originals are 15x6.5 ET43 and that's what I have at the moment. I want to go up to a 16x7.5 with 205/45 tyres.

Now, I like the staggered look but I don't want a stretched 205 tyre on a 9" wheel. I don't want poke outside the fenders either. I would like to keep a "civilized" drive for when I go for rides with my wife if that makes sense.

 

So I have this idea that if I want a staggered look on a 7.5" square setup, I could "play" with the ET to give me the look without having a stretched tyre. I need to figure this out before I order them. Right now I'm thinking I could do an ET25 to 35 at the front and an ET10 to 20 at the rear.

 

In one of my previous thread, someone gave me a link to a calculator: https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-50-15X6.5ET43&wheel2=205-45-16X7.5ET15&fcl=50mm&wcl=30mm&scl=50mm&sr=0mm

I'm not even sure I fully understand things like per example on a ET15 in the fenders section it says: Tire will stick out 33 mm farther. Rim will stick out 41 mm farther. Does it mean the total is 74mm, nnno? And what about the fender clearance by entering my car, the fender clearance was set at 50mm. But is this default or accurate, or should I measure with a ruler from the tyre to the fender and reset this measurements?

 

Or I'm am complicating things too much and should just go with ET25 all around and buy spacers? My reasoning is, may as well getting it sorted properly since the wheels are custom and skip the spacers but I don't know how to calculate the ET. Shiiit sorry, any advice for me?

 

Cheers and thank you for your time

[swiftkid 1]

Without teaching you how to suck eggs I'll start with the basics and if you already know it happy days.

 

ET is the measurement in mm from the centreline of the wheel (alloy) to the mounting face to the hub of the wheel. Why they do wheels in inches and offset in mm is beyond me.

 

The difficulty with some of the measurements on that website is they are 'perfect world' calculations and no 2 tyres are ever the same. you could go from a bridgestone to a goodyear and find the profile is completely different.

When they say the tyre will stick out 33mm further this is based on the edge of the estimated tread to the new line of the estimated tread and same with the wheel itself. You could go from a 7" wheel to a 9" wheel whilst retaining the same tyre and the wheel will stick out further but the edge of the tread won't, hence the dimension.

 

Basically you are correct that you could run staggered wheels of the same width to get the right look. I ran a 9" front and back et15 & et25.

[ABV-VR6 12]

Thank you for getting back to me, much appreciated. I know, why is there measurements in inch and mm??

Your explanation make sense and made me understand a bit more how it works.

I feel like its pretty much guess work to a certain extend... Because you're right on another point, threads on a tyre can vary greatly and yes no two tyres are the same...

It's giving me a headache ;) For now I'm thinking about 16x7.5 ET20 all around. I'll try do find more pictures of Corrados with wheels specs to help me out. There was a nice thread on Vortex but 80% of the pictures are long gone...

 

Cheers!

[ABV-VR6 12]

Without teaching you how to suck eggs I'll start with the basics and if you already know it happy days.

 

ET is the measurement in mm from the centreline of the wheel (alloy) to the mounting face to the hub of the wheel. Why they do wheels in inches and offset in mm is beyond me.

 

The difficulty with some of the measurements on that website is they are 'perfect world' calculations and no 2 tyres are ever the same. you could go from a bridgestone to a goodyear and find the profile is completely different.

When they say the tyre will stick out 33mm further this is based on the edge of the estimated tread to the new line of the estimated tread and same with the wheel itself. You could go from a 7" wheel to a 9" wheel whilst retaining the same tyre and the wheel will stick out further but the edge of the tread won't, hence the dimension.

 

Basically you are correct that you could run staggered wheels of the same width to get the right look. I ran a 9" front and back et15 & et25.

 

One more thing, so I did found someone who has your setup, 9" front and rear, same ET and this is just what I'm looking for. He has the schmidt modern line like I want too. What I find weird is 9" seems way to wide, with that calculator, it's over 2" pass the fenders. But looking at the pictures, it doesn't. And also a 205 tyre on a 9" seems so stretched but on is pictures, it doesn't look too crazy. Even the schmidt guy told me 205 was not wide enough for a 9". So with your setup, did you do lots of work on your fenders to make it happen?

[ABV-VR6 12]

Okay so a picture is worth a thousand words they say...

 

That's a staggered setup 16x9 ET21 rear and 16x7.5 ET10, this to me looks perfect: https://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?7470505-Schmidt-modern-line-wheels-5x100-16x9-et-21-and-16x7-5-et-10-with-205-40-16-tires-all-around-2900-obo

 

Then there's a square setup all 16x9 ET25 front and ET15 rear just like shiftkid's setup and that looks perfect too. Although I'm kind of skeptical with a 9" rim in the front but it seems to work: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6997330-FS-Highly-Modified-Multiple-Award-Winning-1992-VW-Corrado-SLC-Turbo&highlight=French+European+SLC

 

And then there's a discussion about mounting a 205 tyre on a 9" rim. And the picture that shows it, the stretch on the tyre is WAY to much for my liking. https://rennlist.com/forums/wheel-and-tire-forum/291556-205-wide-tire-on-a-9-rim.html This is what I don't understand. Why does the tyres on the first 2 links mounted on a 9" wheels looks fine but on the third link it's way to much stretch? Just the tyre structure? Even the guy a Schmidt told me not to install a 205 on their 9" wheel, he said minimum 215 and even so it will be very stretched. Also wondering how much work is involved on the fenders to make it happen?

 

That's why I'm confused, there's so much mixed reviews/thinking on this... If the wheels were cheap to buy I guess I would not care as much but at the price they are I can't afford to mess this up...

Edited February 9, 2020 by ABV-VR6

[swiftkid 1]

Lol, it's swiftkid btw (first car was a swift gti & I can't be bothered to change username)

 

Anyway, the look of a tyre very much comes back to tyre choice, on my old valver I ran 16x7.5 wheel with 195/45/16 yokohama, it had a little bit of a stretch on it but not too daft. I went to get a replacement tyre and Yokohama had discontinued the tyre with the S-drive, I asked if it was the same width etc. and was told "Yes, it's exactly the same profile". After fitting it, it was completely different, I might as well have gone from a 195 to a 225!! 2 hours down the road and it caught so badly the arch hit the tyre, unfolded itself and took a huge lump out the tyre! And that's 2 tyres from the same manufacturer!

 

I'm running 16x8.5 (195/45) & 16x9.5 (215/40) and they poke less than my 16x9 staggered set. I know Falken's have a tendency to stretch more, Toyo are sort of middle men, anyone who fits those horrific nankang ditchfinders need shooting but they stretch quite a bit.

 

I rolled and pulled my arches slightly, I would definitely advise rolling them. I was getting my car resprayed so I wasn't bothered about splitting the paint but with a heat fun and a proper roller I managed to do it without even damaging the paint!

[ABV-VR6 12]

On 2/10/2020 at 2:12 AM, swiftkid said:

Lol, it's swiftkid btw (first car was a swift gti & I can't be bothered to change username)

 

Anyway, the look of a tyre very much comes back to tyre choice, on my old valver I ran 16x7.5 wheel with 195/45/16 yokohama, it had a little bit of a stretch on it but not too daft. I went to get a replacement tyre and Yokohama had discontinued the tyre with the S-drive, I asked if it was the same width etc. and was told "Yes, it's exactly the same profile". After fitting it, it was completely different, I might as well have gone from a 195 to a 225!! 2 hours down the road and it caught so badly the arch hit the tyre, unfolded itself and took a huge lump out the tyre! And that's 2 tyres from the same manufacturer!

 

I'm running 16x8.5 (195/45) & 16x9.5 (215/40) and they poke less than my 16x9 staggered set. I know Falken's have a tendency to stretch more, Toyo are sort of middle men, anyone who fits those horrific nankang ditchfinders need shooting but they stretch quite a bit.

 

I rolled and pulled my arches slightly, I would definitely advise rolling them. I was getting my car resprayed so I wasn't bothered about splitting the paint but with a heat fun and a proper roller I managed to do it without even damaging the paint!

Lol sorry about that swiftkid, don't know how I came up with shiftkid but that's pretty funny!
Thanks mate seriously for all your information, I really appreciate it.
I will be paying attention to the tyres I will be getting and roll my fenders lightly with a mate and a heat gun. Better to put all the chances on my side.

Cheers!