ABS light 535 919 235 BA solution

[Cressa 44]

So, anyone with the above light knows how gentle it is. Hopefully the replacement of the filament bulb can mend many, but mine was now beyond that. 

As the part is rare and obsolete I was looking for an alternative.  Ebay has a couple of non working items for £99, no thankyou.

I had a look at previous ABS switches and the wiring diagrams are very similar. I took the plunge to try and resolve this. 

I have got several different lights but the one I have just tried is 535 919 235 AA  and uses an 8 pin plug instead of a 7+2 plugs. 

I made a test lead and made sure the connections are the same as the previous one

535 919 235 BA

3-ABS, 2-15, 6-P9, 5-WS1, 7-BR. 4 UNUSED AS IS THE RED PLUG

535 919 235 AA

1-WS1, 5-P9, 3-BR, 4-15, 8-ABS

Even more astonishing was that the colours are exactly the same. You could just swap the pins over but I wanted to test and see if it did work.

And it has.

You could swap the front covers over to keep them the same, but the AA version with the raised bits does look good next to my headlight switch, but does NOT fit in the smaller space.

Hopefully this may of help to others. I am glad the Corrado Gods were in a good mood for me today 😁

Edited March 9, 2020 by Cressa
Correction

[fendervg 33]

Is the 535 919 235 AA version any easier to come by though? Guessing by the 535 prefix it's also a Corrado specific part.

[Cressa 44]

It is Corrado specific, but always around. I also got 535 919 235B to try. This is a smaller switch so I wonder if that is an early late difference. Either way i would just rob the insides and fit it in the later switch. 

[Cressa 44]

535 919 235B fits perfectly in the smaller hole next to the headlight switch. See picture 

I may make the hole bigger to fit the previous light... or try wiring this up tonight. Bloody corrados  The AA light is a perfect fit in the original bank of 4 switches

[Cressa 44]

I have just wired 535 919 235B up according to the same wiring. Yet again it is the same colours and works.

So, another alternative. And this only fits in the blank next to the headlight switch. 

[fendervg 33]

Great work - this will be really useful to know for anyone having problems or looking to replace a faulty switch. If you could post a picture of each switch with the part# beside it at the end it would be really helpful.

The only thing I can add as that I've repaired two at different times, one needed some of the solder on the PCB reflowing, and the other was a blown bulb which we replaced with an LED and an inline resistor - that was a little bright, so a plastic cap on the bulb helped to dim it a little..

[Cressa 44]

On 3/10/2020 at 12:01 PM, fendervg said:

Great work - this will be really useful to know for anyone having problems or looking to replace a faulty switch. If you could post a picture of each switch with the part# beside it at the end it would be really helpful.

The only thing I can add as that I've repaired two at different times, one needed some of the solder on the PCB reflowing, and the other was a blown bulb which we replaced with an LED and an inline resistor - that was a little bright, so a plastic cap on the bulb helped to dim it a little..

The larger switch where the foglight and rear heated screen switches are

[voidp 0]

On 3/10/2020 at 8:01 AM, fendervg said:

Great work - this will be really useful to know for anyone having problems or looking to replace a faulty switch. If you could post a picture of each switch with the part# beside it at the end it would be really helpful.

The only thing I can add as that I've repaired two at different times, one needed some of the solder on the PCB reflowing, and the other was a blown bulb which we replaced with an LED and an inline resistor - that was a little bright, so a plastic cap on the bulb helped to dim it a little..

I have a blown bulb.  Can you specify what bulb and resistor you used to make the repair?

[fendervg 33]

From vague memory it would have been a white LED, 2.1V and a 500 ohm resistor. I remember I measured the current etc. at the time with a friend who had LEDs and resistors handy. You could always measure the signal coming in, but I'm pretty sure it was 12V and there are lots of sites that let you work out what kind of inline resistor you would need , such as https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/led-resistor-calculator/

I think you can also now get ready to solder LEDs that have a resistor built in.

If you don't want to go down the LED route, any electronics shop should have 12v filament bulb, something like this should work:

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/incandescent-light-bulbs/0105231/

Maybe an LED is better as it won't blow and runs cooler, but I guess the idea with the warning light is that it's only supposed to come on for a couple of seconds and then stay out, although that's almost never the case in a Corrado in my experience!

[voidp 0]

@fendervg: Thanks for the info!!

[voidp 0]

On 7/8/2021 at 2:37 PM, voidp said:

I have a blown bulb.  Can you specify what bulb and resistor you used to make the repair?

The replacement part at uk.rs-online.com looked better, but the cost (plus shipping to the U.S.) was quite high, so I went with this incandescent instead: https://www.bulbtown.com/DW07_JKL_T1_1_4_Wire_Terminal_Base_Bulb_p/dw07.htm.