Corrado G60 - Running Awfully (with video)

[Helmert3 11]

Hello everyone back at it again, with the Corrado G60.

So since my last post alot of random issues have been sorted:

- Brakes are now working, found a leak in the Booster Vacuum which was then replaced.

- ABS Computer contacts are cleaned and now working.

- Windscreen Bond has been replaced

- General Electronic issues have been fixed, like Windows, and that sort of stuff.

The issue is the car is still running awfully, we're now running with a Stock MAP Chip atlast so thats all sorted, ive done the usual digifant testing, blue temp sensor (visible in video) even replaced it after the video with a new OEM One, but that made little difference. Lambda Sensors have been cleaned, Vacuums are capped off, and ECU is running off of a 3.2mm x 1m OEM Vacuum line to the Intake Manifold.

We're reaching the extent of my mechanical knowledge, and I thought possibly it could be the timing (It had a new cambelt when it got an MOT, and did seem to be running worse when it came back). This video is a few weeks old, but things are very much the same as seen in the video.

If anyone has any ideas at all, please do let me know. Unfortunately no garages down here have any knowledge of these types of systems, so its not like I have many places to turn to locally.

(I have already gone over the engine with Carb Cleaner, and it made no difference)
 

 

[Popeye775 16]

Hello everyone back at it again, with the Corrado G60.

So since my last post alot of random issues have been sorted:

- Brakes are now working, found a leak in the Booster Vacuum which was then replaced.
- ABS Computer contacts are cleaned and now working.
- Windscreen Bond has been replaced
- General Electronic issues have been fixed, like Windows, and that sort of stuff.

The issue is the car is still running awfully, we're now running with a Stock MAP Chip atlast so thats all sorted, ive done the usual digifant testing, blue temp sensor (visible in video) even replaced it after the video with a new OEM One, but that made little difference. Lambda Sensors have been cleaned, Vacuums are capped off, and ECU is running off of a 3.2mm x 1m OEM Vacuum line to the Intake Manifold.

We're reaching the extent of my mechanical knowledge, and I thought possibly it could be the timing (It had a new cambelt when it got an MOT, and did seem to be running worse when it came back). This video is a few weeks old, but things are very much the same as seen in the video.

If anyone has any ideas at all, please do let me know. Unfortunately no garages down here have any knowledge of these types of systems, so its not like I have many places to turn to locally.

(I have already gone over the engine with Carb Cleaner, and it made no difference)
 

 

It seems almost like there is an air leak somewhere. Check the idle air screw on the back of the throttle body. Do you have a Bentley? I would go into the Bentley and set the idle/timing through there. The way the idle is sticking is making me think air leak somewhere or something with timing could be off. Are you able to get it smoke tested to see about any leaks?


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[Helmert3 11]

The throttle body has been moved down to the bottom of the engine bay around 20 years ago. When the Eaton M45 was installed to replace the G-Ladder. Its rather a pain to get to the Idle Air Screw, however it does seem to still have the rubber seal intact and preventing air from getting in. The thing is how much better it idles with the O2 Sensor Unplugged.

I lack the equiptment to check and set the timing unfortunately, and would probably be best taking it to the garage with the Haynes Manual and asking them to go through the timing on the car. Generally I want to do as much as I can before I try and get a garage involved again. But most reccomendations (from the forum) for Garages down where I am are so out of date that most of them wont touch a Corrado yet along with with an Eaton.

[vw rule 19]

I think the Eaton M45 supercharger was possibly also used in the BMW Mini Cooper S, from what I've read online. Also this charger does produce a lot of heat so is important to still use your intercooler.

Reading through your above post and watching your uploaded video, I'm inclined to think it's possibly wiring/electrical issue/s, firstly you unplugged the blue coolant temperature sensor in your video, then you also mentioned when you unplug your lambda sensor (O2 sensor) it idles a lot better, and doesn't fluctuate at all or not as much. I think unplugging those two sensors will increase the fuel mixture, as the ECU can't read the signals from those sensors when they're unplugged. For the engine to fluctuate yes it can be an air leak, but I've never seen an engine fluctuate that much and up to 5000rpm, there's got to be something else that the ECU doesn't like or can't see when it's making it's fuel to air ratio calculations. Or as POPEYE775 has mentioned could possibly be a vacuum/breather issue, but it would have to be quite bad to effect the engine like this ?

Looking in the Bentley manual at the G60 engine, it's showing a large crank case breather, going from the bottom of throttle flange, then small hose comes off to valve cover, then main breather pipe goes to supercharger. I can see in your video it's connected ok to valve cover and throttle flange, but can't see the back of supercharger. In the manual it mentions when carrying out a boost pressure system leak check, you have to disconnect the crank case breather recirculation pipe, I presume to aid getting an accurate reading when testing. What I'm saying is this breather recirculation pipe is it all rooted correctly to supercharger.

1) completely different supercharger fitted, so fabrication would have been needed to make this charger fit correctly.

2) throttle body has been moved lower down. Where too exactly and how has it been connected, I think I saw the throttle cable going over and down the front of engine ?

3) none standard ECU was fitted before but has since been changed back to standard OEM, I think this ECU has to measure the vacuum to help calculate correct idle of engine. In the Bentley manual it states this vacuum hose to ECU must be bang on correct as 100cm (1 meter) long, no more / no less, states highly critical.

4) also your Mass Air Flow Sensor / Co sensor / air temp sensor, has this been adjusted / played with ??

5) Has it got a standard OEM cam shaft still fitted, or has that been altered ??

As the other guys have mentioned I'd go back to basics and start with the valve timing, as that must be 100% correct so you've got a good base foundation, otherwise you could be going round in circles. Also you could check the ignition timing with a timing strobe gun, but I seriously doubt that would cause your issue, but is still worth checking.

Si 

[vw rule 19]

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 20, 2020 by vw rule

[vw rule 19]

 

Edited October 20, 2020 by vw rule

[Helmert3 11]

Helllo. Thank you for all the advice, ill be going over and checking things a bit more, but I can answer a few of your questions now.

1. The Supercharger work was done by a place down in Summerset around what must be near 20 years ago. I believe they did all the fabrications, and apparently things did work fine until the car was parked up in 2005.

2. The Throttle body was moved down by the supercharger, in the bottom left hand side of the engine bay

3. The ECU Fitted before was fairly unknown. The Unit was fried, and did have a chip in it, but the chip that was in there was apparently from well before the charger was installed, and was done with the original owner in the 90s. When I replaced this it made sense to use a stock ECU and chip. There is a new 3.2mm x 1m Vacuum Line connecting the ECU To the Intake Manifold.. (The Throttle Body is capped off)

4. None of this has been played with from what i know of it.

5. Everything related to the engine in that regard should be completely stock.

I think my concern is how quickly this is going to get quite complicated, I do a lot of my own jobs and tinkering here and there to fix problems. But we're quickly entering territory where i dont reckon id be much use at what needs doing.

[vw rule 19]

Found this thread which has some good info on the G60 (link below)

 

Si 

[Simeon 0]

G60s can be a real source of headaches, but it's usually something simple. You really need to get the timing checked if you've not done it properly - start with the static timing per the guide VW Rule has put up above. Dynamic timing you just need a timing light, they aren't expensive, make sure your dizzy is freed off and then set it to 6deg btdc.

Have you checked wiring to the injectors, terrible for breaking down and causing havoc.

What state is the wiring in generally, have you stripped it back to check connections etc? 

[fla 9]

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