Remove/drop fuel tank

[_Matt_ 26]

Hi,

As I continue my quest to put my car right after leaving it in the hands of "professionals", I need to drop fuel tank. It doesn't necessarily need to come all the way out but just enough to re-route the fuel pipes that are meant to go through the chassis legs rather than crushed between chassis leg and tank....

Some questions...

- Do i need to drop the rear axle (I hope not)

- Is it just the tank straps and two bolts on the fuel filler neck? 

anything else?

Thanks,

Matt

[easypops 8]

You will be fine as you described, I usually put the jack underneath it and then loosen the straps but if you are only doing it to reroute the pipes then you might get away with just releasing the back bolts, dropping it slightly then doing what’s to be done. Just watch the pipes that are on as you don’t want to stress the connections at the filter or the pump .

No need to touch the rear beam 

[_Matt_ 26]

Thanks pops 🙂

I like to know my way through before i begin. I have 9 jobs to do before she's roadworthy again. Grim. Thought this car was done.

 

 

[easypops 8]

I saw some of your rust issues on Facebook , mine was very similar, sadly the underseal is now hiding the problems instead of preventing them 🤣

The fuel tank is an awkward beast, especially if it’s got a decent amount in it, definitely easier with 2 bodies 

[_Matt_ 26]

Yeah it is a good chance to learn welding although I had hoped to learn on my mk2 rather than the "best" car. I made sure I zinc primed the back side of all metal and did it in sections so I hope my repairs last.

 

I had a mobile chap do the otherside. He was kind enough to spend some time with me and teach me how to weld and get me set up on my machine. It was invaluable hands on experience.

 

Mobile Classics and Customs based in Coventry but will travel for fuel money - Andy - for anyone reading.

 

That said, music blaring, I failed to notice I had no gas on my first attempt and kept blowing holes no matter what tweaks I made to my machine.

 

Next steps are to work out how to upgrade my gas situation to those larger rental bottles. Already been through 3 disposables and at 40 quid for 3 it's not cheap!

 

On the plus side my floor pans are good. It was just the sill area and since I've cut the front section open I was pleased to see it is tidy inside. The car had a blow over repaint before I bought it and it wasn't great around the trims so had it done againt last year. However the first place used filler instead of metal so front bits of sills were not great! The place i had it painted did a nice enough job on the paint but not perfect and you'd have thought with the wings off they might have repaired or suggested repair on the a pillar. Lesson learnt - want a job doing right - do it yourself. Bougbt an air compressor and will be learning painting - saw you painted your wings the other day.

 

I also found a lovely surprise on the drivers inner arch where thr brake line comes through. That is next on the list to with new metal.

 

My rear arches didn't get enough paint on them as part of the respray but fortunately just the lips and ive sanded back to metal. Im epoxy plus paint on those. The chap didn't take the wheels off and couldn't get his gun in he said.

 

Rear two eye area needs wire wheel and treatment. Using bilt hamber gel or hydrate 80 where I dont need to weld.

 

Then I plan to re underseal it - dinitrol or raptor or open to suggestions. The wings are off so doing behind there as well.

 

Then waxoil cavities, refit interior, get sunroof panel trimmed and possibly enjoy the car?!

 

Had a moan to black magic Keiran that I wanted to set fire to it earlier as came in from the garage fuming after finding yet more work on the car I thought was "finished". Touch wood i dont as that wax in the cavities is lethal with a welder. But happier again now.

 

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