Jump to content
Laser Mark

Heater Matrix Removal - flap foam

Recommended Posts

In need of a bit of help.
Today I’ve had a go at removing the heater matrix without taking the dash out.
Using the step by step guide on vagdrivers, and adding a few of our own, we managed to get it out. 
(Defiantly a 2 man job, and preferably with someone who’s had a dash out before. Cheers Dave16v for the help today)
I would say it is possible to remove and replace, but it is a nightmare, hense the dash came out after.

After looking over the heater matrix the foam covering the flaps has completely perished and 90% has fallen away. Has anyone replaced it, if so, what is the part or where did you source the replacement from?
Also the foam on the duct at the end of the heater box and around the top of the centre ducts has just crumbled away. Is there a suitable replacement? Vw heritage doesn’t show one.

There are now more car bits in the garage, than in the car.
Hopefully once the matrix is sorted I can get it all back together and put the car in the garage.

38C53E40-0CE6-4F29-BE0F-7FE7B0506560.jpeg

DE8BE39B-816A-4EDC-B26D-D2A1E2C20E59.jpeg

EECDC81F-2103-4B5F-8D80-821BC4C992E5.jpeg

6EBE96B8-CF39-4E5E-A976-685944159067.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used a neoprene foam strip that is adhesive on 1 side fof the seals, Ebay.

For the flaps I used felt and stuck them on. Plenty of choice but worth the effort. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the heater box flaps I used self-adhesive foam like Cressa above  - available in A4 sheets from most arts and hobby shops. You can also cut it into strips to make up the seals - another idea I came across was to use draft excluder door seal strips from DIY stores and cut them to size.

You can buy the neoprene in sheets with an adhesive backing and then use a template to cut yout seal with a craft knife - that's how those seals are made, except by machine, not by hand.

Be very careful to make sure the control cables are properly attached to the box before refitting, as it's a pain to get to them afterwards - then hook them up to the controls and make sure they move freely, even with a bend on the cable before putting it back into the car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/6/2022 at 6:32 PM, Laser Mark said:

In need of a bit of help.
Today I’ve had a go at removing the heater matrix without taking the dash out.
Using the step by step guide on vagdrivers, and adding a few of our own, we managed to get it out. 
(Defiantly a 2 man job, and preferably with someone who’s had a dash out before. Cheers Dave16v for the help today)
I would say it is possible to remove and replace, but it is a nightmare, hense the dash came out after.

After looking over the heater matrix the foam covering the flaps has completely perished and 90% has fallen away. Has anyone replaced it, if so, what is the part or where did you source the replacement from?
Also the foam on the duct at the end of the heater box and around the top of the centre ducts has just crumbled away. Is there a suitable replacement? Vw heritage doesn’t show one.

There are now more car bits in the garage, than in the car.
Hopefully once the matrix is sorted I can get it all back together and put the car in the garage.

38C53E40-0CE6-4F29-BE0F-7FE7B0506560.jpeg

DE8BE39B-816A-4EDC-B26D-D2A1E2C20E59.jpeg

EECDC81F-2103-4B5F-8D80-821BC4C992E5.jpeg

6EBE96B8-CF39-4E5E-A976-685944159067.jpeg

only just seen this post - ive got a full guide with pics on how to do this job

so much easier with dash fully out

i email it out on request

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@cressa - will PM you. Nice to have for the archives seeing as the Canadian forum is gone - there is still one for dash out on vagdrivers.net

Watch out for the shouldered studs that secure the matrix and ducting to the bulkhead - these do not like to turn easily, or when they do will just spin in place without coming out. I had to remove on after lots of different methods by wedging a spanner in place on the nut on the engine size, and then using a large socket on it in the footwell - hopefully yours will come out easy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...