Vr6 Engine wear

[andymx 0]

Hi, im new to this forum and currently own a very low milage g60 but am looking to buy a vr6. Because there are not many cars to test drive in i wondered if anyone could give me any ideas on what to look for in a tired engine? do vr6's suffer from any serious bore wear, timing chain or cam problems etc. The g60 engine is much more basic and seems to be very strong or is the simplicity of this engine the key to its reliability.(i am a strong believer in that). the only wear i can find on my engine was the cambelt tensioner bearing and the apex seals in the charger (which i have both replaced). COuld any one help me with vr6 problems before i go and get stiched up. Cheers Andy.

[dr_mat 0]

I would imagine that a good place to start would be the buying guide....

[dr_mat 0]

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... ying+guide

[corradovr6sc 0]

Vr6s suffer from wear on bores 1 and 6 (check for oily plugs) and the cams are chain driven. By 100K the chain tensioners (mainly the top one) are pretty worn and should be replaced. Its a fairly big job as the gearbox has to come off. Cylinder heads need rebuilding at the same mileage. Some sensors may also need replacing as they begin failing at this mileage (the maf and cam sensors really). Other than that they are pretty sound. If you can find one which has had the chains and head done you'd be saving a lot of money and if these jobs haven't been done you could use them to negociate a better price.

[dinkus 10]

On a more basic level you need to look for

 

Smoke from the exhaust. Anything more than a slight puff of light coloured smoke on a cold start up does not bode well

 

Regular oil changes, it doesn't really matter who by, but a fully stamped up service history is a good sign that the engine has had regular oil replacements and is more likely to be healthy.

 

Obviously, it also depends on how the car has been driven. Lots of short journeys and/or thrashings from cold are going to seriously reduce the life of the engine. If you're looking for chain rattle (sign of the tensioners going) then it sounds like marbles in a tin can and comes from the top right of the engine, looking from the front of the car.

 

Hope this helps and good luck with finding a nice C!

[andymx 0]

Are the chain tensioners hydraulic or spring loaded and locked etc? Also how do you overcome bore wear if it is necessary. you will have to excuse my lack of knowledge on th vr6 engine but is it a cast block with or without liners, is there an oversize kit or can the 2.8 be overbored?

[corradovr6sc 0]

the top tensioner is hydraulic and the lower is spring loaded.

cast block without liners, vw don't do overbore pistons for the 2.9 so you have to rebore a 2.8 block or go to 3.0 or 3.1 using j@r pistons.

[Critical_Mass 10]

dinkus, when you say anything other then a light puff of white smoke from start up isnt a good sign? Well i get white smoke come from the exhaust until the engine is up to temp. I thought this was normal?

[vr6storm 0]

dinkus, when you say anything other then a light puff of white smoke from start up isnt a good sign? Well i get white smoke come from the exhaust until the engine is up to temp. I thought this was normal?

 

thats just condensation mate............Dinkus means a puff when you start it up

[Critical_Mass 10]

Cheers dude.

 

Im still trying to get to the bottom of my lack of power issue. I got the plugs changed and the plugs cleaned. Engine ran ok, bar it seemingly being down on power.... no misfiring. However a matter of weeks later it went back to misfiring. Checked plugs, they were black again.... so i cleaned them and it stopped misfiring. Im puzzled cos if it was burning oil the exhaust fumes would show evidence of that. So this is my theory... tell me if im way off or not. The engine is running rich, which will soot up the plugs. After so long the plugs become that sooted up, the fuel doesnt get ignited propery and soaks the plugs, hence gunking them up THUS the misfiring occurs. Good/bad theory!?

 

Im seeing about taking it down to stealth to see how much down on power it is. The whole sit is pishing me off now.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread

[eatthis 0]

Cheers dude.

 

Im still trying to get to the bottom of my lack of power issue. I got the plugs changed and the plugs cleaned. Engine ran ok, bar it seemingly being down on power.... no misfiring. However a matter of weeks later it went back to misfiring. Checked plugs, they were black again.... so i cleaned them and it stopped misfiring. Im puzzled cos if it was burning oil the exhaust fumes would show evidence of that. So this is my theory... tell me if im way off or not. The engine is running rich, which will soot up the plugs. After so long the plugs become that sooted up, the fuel doesnt get ignited propery and soaks the plugs, hence gunking them up THUS the misfiring occurs. Good/bad theory!?

 

Im seeing about taking it down to stealth to see how much down on power it is. The whole sit is pishing me off now.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread

 

sounds like a good theory to me id put money on a sensor beuing screwed cam or hall sender maybe? as i beleive the ecu goes into safe mode and runs rich as hell im sure some1 will correct me though

[Critical_Mass 10]

Thanks for reply.. ive had it on VAG COM (bloke who i bought it off did it for me) and it came up a'ok. however i want a second opinion.

[dr_mat 0]

MAF sensor problems won't show up on VAGCOM.

[Critical_Mass 10]

:lol: switch to this thread.

 

Ah right, in that case it could well be the MAF. Anywhere recommeded to get one? Ive heard (probably on this thread) they can go for £75-£300 depending where you get it.

[dr_mat 0]

Ebay.

Even if it's also faulty, the odds of it being faulty in *exactly the same way* are almost nil, so you still prove the point about your old one, and since it's likely to have cost less than £30 you can't really go wrong.

[Critical_Mass 10]

Ill take a look. Ill put up a post in the "wanted" section too!