Popeye775

In my experience, buying rebuilt ones has always worked out better for me. Saw it easier to buy rebuilt injectors that came with a warranty in case they didn't work than to try to rebuild mine and have the chance of them not working ahaha. Maybe somebody else can point you in the right direction of rebuilding them. Do you have Bentley? Does it explain what all needs to happen in order to rebuild? 

Also check 7-zap if you haven't already to find OE part numbers if you need for any of the rebuild of the injectors

11 hours ago, KarlosG60 said:

Before I open the thread there (no time now), this is what it need to be replaced on every injector?

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_global/search?q=030 198 031

 

This item x4 times? 40 euros on that? There is another option? I saw Topran one, but this brand is not reliable I think... And we talking about fuel is an important system of the car. Cannot mount poor materials.

When I did mine, I did not rebuild. I bought rebuilt injectors instead because I did not have means of testing the injectors once they were rebuilt. It was easier for me to buy certified/tested rebuilt injectors than it was to get a rebuild kit and take to a shop to have flow tested. Your injectors may be ok, but could be that the CoPot is tuned too rich. It is never a bad idea to freshen up the injectors, but I would test fuel pressure/fuel pressure drop to see if the injectors are leaking or needing to be replaced. Make sure the fuel pressure is good and then shut the car off and keep the pressure tester connected. Bentley should outline how long to keep it connected for and how much of a fuel pressure drop there should be. This will help to show you if your injectors are leaking

Anytime. It can be tough to really dial in that CoPot without use of an AFR gauge. At least, from my experience it is because you don't know how your fuel mixture is while you are trying to set it. I have a wideband gauge mounted in mine that I used to fine tune mine. 

Be sure to follow the Bentley when setting the CoPot and things of that nature. Only reason I say this is because, I had played with my CoPot at one point (set it to 500ohm because it was in the thousands for whatever reason. I am almost positive one of the previous owners set it that high but I am unsure) and mine did not run very well. My AFR was way off. So just be sure to follow the Bentley when it comes to setting that mixture up. If you don't have one, I recommend getting an AFR gauge as this will make it easier to set the CoPot when adjusting everything. If you need help with it at all, feel free to PM me here or on the Vortex as well (same username on there).

What spark plugs are you running? Are they OEM heat spec? 

To me, the plugs look a bit fouled - 1, 2, and 4 - as if they are carbon fouled or if your air:fuel mixture is too rich. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong on this though. 

 

Also, please remind me, do you have a Bentley manual or a version of it either PDF or printed?

Good job 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 hopefully this solves your issue. Keep us updated when you do timing and adjust the CO pot on how it is running

Smart. This is probably one of the best ways to do it IMO

Hell yea! Keep us updated. Can't wait to see if it works

On 10/14/2023 at 9:46 AM, KarlosG60 said:

Update:

There are a few shorts and I am working on it to fix them all. One of them was green from the ignition coil. The black wire is also very tight/rigid/hard. And I'm going to put in new FLRY wire (not full wire, but that's the worst part).

 

But, in addition to this, I ran into something that I don't know if it's like that from the factory or it was also another crappy connection because of the Gemini alarm or sound system installed later.

I'm talking about 4 brown-white wires that ends to 94 ground.
Those wires are from: CO2 potentiometer, Hall Generator, Coolant Temperatur Sensor and Throttle Valve Potentiometer.

Here is how is this ground is in my car:

 

   

 

 

Is that ok? 

The way that this is grounded does not look factory to me. To double check if I am accurate or not, I would post to the VW Vortex as well because there are a lot of pretty active VW heads that are on that forum daily that could tell you in more detail if that is factory or not. But, I am 99% positive that is not factory. I will double check my Bentley today and see where all those grounds should be running to. I am almost positive a couple of those should be running to the valve cover as a grounding spot. My valve cover has grounds for the hall sender, the CO Pot, and the coolant temp sensor I believe that are attached to it. All of them are separate wires unlike how yours has been spliced into one. 

Something like that or anything similar that could be causing a loose connection. Or any sort of broken wires along that circuit

36 minutes ago, KarlosG60 said:

Correct. Voltimeter in outer pins of hall sender connector. Key turn on.

Voltage went from ~5V to ~10.2V. Obtaining spark only when 10V was stable (distributor out of the engine and turning by hand)

Ok. To me that sounds like there is a short in the wire somewhere. In the harness going to the hall sender, are there any butt connectors that you can see or feel? If there are, this could possibly be the cause of your short. I have had butt connectors fail on me before and after properly swapping them out, everything ran a whole lot better. 

On 9/18/2023 at 5:57 AM, KarlosG60 said:

A little update since April... My bad.

 

I did this with distributor out of its hole and turning it by hand with contact on and voltimeter pinned in outer terminals of connector.

Moving/wiggling wires, voltage drops and go up between 5V - 10.20V.

Under 10V, no spark is audible or visible.

With 10.20V, spark is visible and audible (I listened sparks inside cylinders and the other spark plug was outside, where I saw it working).

I have a video, not in English, but maybe it's useful. I will upload it to YT.

So, at this point I don't know how to proceed. I'm thinking about talking with my workshop and let them the car to replace all wiring (I don't know if they do so or send it all wires to an specialist), not only faulty one. Because if there is broken wire, I think there will be more broken wires in the future.

Second option it's to invest hours and who knows when and how this will end.

Hi sir, so you checked the voltage at the harness connector for the hall sender? 

On 4/22/2023 at 5:40 AM, KarlosG60 said:

Thanks for writing. 

Yes I have updates. Sometimes the hall sender receices 10v and sometimes 5v or less. One of this times I got 10v, I try to run the engine and it works. So I started checking wires and so, and sometimes I move the group of wires,I clearly listen a few things in the car, like doors, injectors and hall. 

So the next step will be search for a broken wire.

That is my thought as well. Try to track down a busted wire or connector in there somewhere. Try testing the wiring and while you are testing it, wiggle the wires around a little bit to see if you have a drop in voltage or not. If you do, then you know that you possibly have a short somewhere in the wiring

Apologies if I skipped over this in reading your chart, but did you test the ignition coil itself?

Bentley says:
.5 to .8 ohms between 1 (-'ve) and 15 (+'ve) for Primary
2400 to 3500 Ohms between terminal 4 and 15 (secondary)

That is how you test to make sure you have a good ignition coil. I had a similar issue with mine a while ago, except I believe that I was getting some spark. Just to be safe, double check your timing. Check timing at the flywheel, at the crank to ensure your crank pulley and intermediate shaft are lining up, and check that the distributor is set properly and didn't somehow get out of timing. I had an issue where somehow my gear had jumped teeth on the crank pulley or the intermediate shaft - I am still unsure which one ended up jumping - and when I parked the car, it wouldn't turn back on and I had lost about 30psi of compression in each cylinder. That was the give away that my timing had jumped teeth. But similar symptoms. Car would not start, and would backfire very loud at around 3000rpm. I do agree you should source another distributor in order to see if that is your issue as well. Especially considering you are getting power to the distributor and hall sender. Double and triple check all of your grounds as well just to be sure that nothing is out of spec. 

 

Have you had any updates lately on this situation?

Just wanted to add to that post:

I checked the resistance of the blue cts against this morning (47 Fahrenheit outside and the car has not been run yet) and it read 6.6k resistance. Not sure if this adds much to the above issue.


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Hey all, bumping this thread because the blip may be making a return. I replaced the ISV and it actually has been running really strong since then. The blip came back just the other day but not really intense so im not sure its anything to worry about or not. Maybe someone here can tell me. When i pull the car out of gear to come to a stop the car will blip about 200 rpm once it hits 1000 rpm. It doesn’t do it every time, it only does it sometimes. Does this seem like something wrong? I resistance checked everything other than the o2 and recently had a smoke test done and everything seemed to check out but i did have a separate question about the blue CTS.

When i resistance checked this my coolant temp gauge read around 183 (about 83 Celsius) Fahrenheit - mine is a US car and reads in Fahrenheit - so it was just below half way up. When i resistance checked the blue cts is read 205 ohm, which according to the Bentley it should be at 205 ohm when the car is around 193 (about 90 celsius) Farenheit. My question being, how accurate is the coolant temp gauge? Could my blue cts actually be within spec but my gauge be off or is that a little far fetched?


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Update on situation:

Seems like there is a theme. It likes to do it when its colder out and when the AFR is lower than 12 starting. It did it today a few times upon starting until i opened the throttle and gave it a little gas then it balanced out. Seems like ISV is maybe getting stuck?


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Caught it pretty well on camera. The first blip was the car and the second time me trying to get it to stop. I had turned the car on for about five minutes to check for a coolant leak - fixed it thankfully - and then shut it off for a probably about ten minutes then decided to take it for a drive. First time the car was on it didn’t do it but when i turned it back on to go for a drive it did this after being on for a minute. ISV?


http:// https://youtube.com/shorts/yLywgWbHeec?feature=share


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Ok sounds good. The CTS is good then. All vac lines are brand new lines - OEM braided vac hose - and all gaskets are brand new and everything torqued to spec when 2L motor was put in. My assumption is going to be idle valve sticking or throttle sticking at this point


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As Dox said check...

Air / vacuum leak

sticky idle valve

Coolant temp sensor.

 

The blue coolant temp sensor can be checked by testing the resistance across the two pins.. it should be between 180 -220 ohms.

The resistance of the CO pot should be around 500 - 600 ohms  across pins 1 and 3 of the CO pot, turn the adjustment screw clockwise to decrease resistance or anti clockwise to increase it.  

 

Update on the blip. I resistance checked my ISV, and my CO pot. CO is at 410 ohm - yesterday was at 360 so i adjusted it up about half a turn - and the ISV was within spec as per the Bentley. I checked the Bentley on the blue CTS as well but found a different reading for what the resistance should be than that? The Bentley has a chart for what the cts should be at in correlation to the temperature. So now I’m confused as to what the CTS reading should be?

I went for a drive today and it actually only did it one time in the middle of the drive. The car was already warmed up when it did it. Was coming to a stop and took the car out of gear - at around 2k rpm or so - and that’s when it did it but not one other time during the drive did it do it.


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8 hours ago, Dox said:

Air / vacuum leak

sticky idle valve

Coolant temp sensor

Hi sir, I will search for vacuum leaks but wouldnt it be a consistent issue if it was a vacuum leak? It wouldn't go away once warmed up a bit if it was vacuum correct? My ISV is new but I am going to test it today to be sure it is ok. I got it maybe about 1k miles ago. Same with coolant tempt sensor. These are all things that I will look over to be sure they are good though

Here is an odd one for you guys. Started up my corrado G60 today and it started real funny. Started, idled around 1000 for a split second, then blipped itself to 1500 down to 800, up to 1500, down to 800 and did that a few times - almost like it was cammed - and then started to idle real rich because it was cold last night. Then while driving, every time i came to a stop the idle would come down, blip to 1500 and then come back down. Almost like the throttle got stock or something and continued to do this when i came to stops until it hit operating temp. I’ll add in a link so you guys can see it. In the video when it jumps from 1000-2000 is the car doing it itself. Not me at all. My CO Pot is set a little low - i think 350 OHM - so maybe in this colder weather it needs to be set higher because its compensating too much for fuel? I know my oxygen, or lambda, sensor is only a year old and maybe a couple thousand miles old. I also just tested it a couple of weeks ago and it read just fine, as well as checked the wiring for the lambda when I had done the bottom end swap in the car. As of right now I am not suspecting lambda but am also not ruling it out. The vacuum hose for the ECU is also brand new OEM vacuum hose that is exactly one meter long. This issue didn't come up until it started to get cold again (freezing at night) and the car had not been started for a couple of days. So my only assumption would be the CO Pot needing to be around 400 OHM instead? Any advice would be appreciated

 

Blips from 1000-2000

bump

Hey all,

 

As some of you know I have a corrado G60 with a recently swapped 2.0L bottom end. I have some AFR readings that I was just curious if anybody could confirm that they are ok ranges. I took my Corrado on a cruise today and between 2k-3k RPM crossing the AFR would stay between 14.5-15.8. Do these seem like ok numbers?

 

Heres the specs for my G60:

 

68mm pulley

267 cam

2.0L bottom end

30lb injectors

3.5 bar pressure regulator

ISV Reroute

Stage 3 tune from BBM

Rebuilt G-Ladder

CO Pot set @ 450 ohm

 

Any sort of insight would be great. Thanks guys

 

 

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Hey all,

So it has been a while since I have posted to this forum but I just had a basic question. Recently, I did a 2L ABA bottom end swap on my G60 (kept the 1.8 head on). Did a ton of upgraded parts (including injectors and things like that). Just for a preface to this question, I have an adjustable FPR (running 3.5 bar), the 30lb injectors, and a stage 3 BBM tune on the car with a 268 cam and 68mm pulley. My AFR reads 14.5-17 while idling, and while driving it averages 14.5-14.8. Cruising AFR looks great - I am pretty sure - but am unsure if the idling AFR is good or not. So I was just curious about that part. I have heard things about needing a stronger ignition coil (like a MSD blaster coil) for stronger spark. My dad actually had this issue with his turbo E30 and needing a stronger than stock ignition coil when his AFR was reading lean. Just wanted to see if this could also be the case here? Or if these AFR ranges for digifant are accurate? I have heard that digifant is pretty crappy when it comes to AFR so I just wanted a little help. Thanks all in advance