Joe M

Replacement parts you need are:

Calipers

Carriers

Pads

Disks

Hoses

If youve got all that the only thing you need to worry about is the copper brake pipes being seized to the existing hoses. Good luck.

Sorry to hear that, if its wrote off though with that spec id definately be trying to buy it back if you can, youd probably get your money back on the gearbox alone.

I got the 720's recently after seeing them praised on here and there definately worth it if you can get a hold of them.

Try http://www.mytyres.co.uk/

Heres an in car vid I thought was pretty good:

http://www.tamiyaclubdata.com/movies/81 ... X16N28.MPG

  20valver said:

As Kev has said it did have another one of stealth's creations in it. I've got a RR graph of the VR vs the 1.8T somewhere. the 1.8T came out on top in temrs of lbs through the range

Any chance you could post this graph? I did have it before but now cant find it and wouldnt mind seeing it again as I may be going down a similar route to this car.

  corradovr6sc said:

Does anyone do a baffled sump for the vr6 or can the existing sump be modified to prevent oil starvation?

Just found out Stealth do an alloy baffeled sump for the VR6, it is £127.99+vat.

Yes, but its about £1800

Heres a post I copied from another forum about the same subject apparently wrote by Vince from Stealth.

  Quote

Hi Guys

 

Thanks to all who attended the RR shoot-out last Sunday, was a good day and a good turnout.

 

First of all on the Subject of intake temps, VR6 engines are very heat sensitive and can loose up to 10bhp between a cool run on the rollers and a hot run.

 

The intake temp figures we put in to our RR software for horsepower correction are as follows.. Start temp set at ambient and end temp about 3-5 degrees higher, this takes into account the intake air temp rise during the power run. Rolling road testing is not carried out in a totally controlled situation to achieve 100% accurate figures, close or very near close is the best we can hope to achieve.

 

Force inducted cars by their nature create much higher intake temps, on these cars we generally monitor the actual temp through the diagnostic port during the run then input that figure into our RR software.

 

 

 

Flywheel BHP vs Wheel BHP..

I read the Puma racing coast down losses a few years back (shortly after purchasing our dyno) interesting read and I agree with most of what is written..

 

BUT

 

Since then I’ve had 3 yrs + dyno experience on VAG cars and this is what I have found.

 

Totally standard Golf 2 16V, VAG say 139bhp Stealth measure nearer 145bhp, we all know VAG engines just get better with age.

 

Totally standard VR6 OBD 1 VAG say 173bhp: Stealth measure under 180bhp (but high 170’s)

 

Totally standard VR6 OBD 2: Stealth measure 185bhp-192 bhp. VW quoted BHP same as OBD1 but you only have to drive one to realise straight away the OBD2 is quicker.

 

Corrado VR6: VAG say 193bhp, Stealth measure 190bhp-195bhp

 

There is always the exception to the rule, I’ve seen some standard cars produce way over standard spec BHP, maybe a Monday morning engine? I know I used to have a Friday afternoon 16V Golf, poo power horrible to drive no matter what I did to it tuning wise.

 

Note: All of the above are Flywheel figures……

 

 

The above figures satisfy me that our rollers produce a reasonably accurate flywheel figure when compared to what VAG state, if I did not think that this was the case then I would change it.

 

 

OK, now down to power at the wheels. I’ve had long drawn out conversations with some customers about this over the years and one guy in particular, he was adamant he was right and the figures I gave him were wrong. (he kept referring to what he read on Puma Racing) His argument was that only a power at the wheels figure was the one which had any real meaning, anything else was crap!!

 

This prompted me to do some testing of my own, and in front of said customer..

 

Figures I am quoting below are simplified for ease, (mainly because I can’t remember the actuals). You should get the idea though

 

 

Took a car and carried out power test.

 

Wheel bhp: 100bhp.

Transmission loss 40bhp

Flywheel figure 140bhp

 

Took same car and put tracking out by 6mm then back on rollers for power test.

 

Wheel BHP 95bhp

Transmission loss 45bhp

Flywheel figure 140bhp

 

From this my assumption is that no matter how inaccurate a “Rolling Road Flywheel” figure may be, in my opinion it can calculate any discrepancies in the transmission losses therefore showing a repeatable flywheel figure. There are lots of things that can affect losses, Wheels/tyres, brake disc weight, driveshafts, etc.. change any of these and you will affect your power at the wheels bhp, if however measured on our rolling road then your flywheel figure will remain the same but will be calculated differently..

 

On RR days there is one thing that you all suffer from, that’s high-ish Transmission loss figures.. Why???? Most of you have all your bonnets open trying to get your engines to cool down and get rid of that dreaded heat soak, and why not, everyone wants to see good power from their car.. I then get the car on the rollers bring engine up to a safe temp to carry out power run but your gear oil is stone cold and very thick, just another contributing factor to a lower power at the wheels figure, my dyno measures this though and adds this higher loss to the power measured at the wheels and gives me a repeatable flywheel figure.

 

I’m happy with the way our Dyno works and with the figures it gives me at the flywheel, (my preferred way of measuring) I feel the accuracy is close enough to be comparable with what VAG say their cars do. Like I said I’m happy but I would change it if it were not the case..

 

Hope this answers some questions for you?

Although I’m really crap at explaining things so you’re probably more confused now than before?

 

Sorry to go on

 

Regards

 

Vince

  h100vw said:

Join the RAC/AA and get it recovered. Pay Andy to throw it back together for you.

Gavin

Probably what I will do, think im gonnae put the car into storage for a few months till I save a bit and decide what im doing with it.

Time for a stupid question I feel. the sump is currently off my car, if a new shell got put on the number 6 conrod, remove the number 4 rod and piston and unplug the number 4 injector and plug, would the car run well enough to go 250 miles? :lol:

1.8t or 24v conversion thread is here: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21237

Go for it Kev, then I can buy your engine. :lol:

Now this sounds interesting :

  Quote

2.7 Litre V6 30V Bi-Turbo into Bora, Corrado, Passat and A4

Our most powerful conversion by far. The 2.7 litre quad-cam 30V bi-turbo engine from the Audi S4 is used, producing 267bhp in standard form. Mated to a Motec engine management system, it is capable of 360bhp. Our kit includes engine, gearbox (2WD only), Motec M800 intercoolers, exhaust including cats and downpipes, wiring loom, cross member kit (required for 4 cylinder cars), V6 radiator (required for 4 cylinder cars) and Ramair induction kit.

There are many variations available for this transplant; RS intercoolers, bigger injectors and KO4 turbos are available at extra cost.

Fitted Price £11160.00

Not at that price though. :roll:

Will the 24v fit in with the standard radiator and cooling fans, bits like that? What about the exaust manifold, will it mate up to a vr exaust?

Would be good to get one of them as I could keep my current gearbox and engine mounts.

Thinking about it now I dont see any reason why it wouldnt be easier than a 1.8t, probably just as much work involved in the wiring and management, but the rest being easier.

CoxyLaad, 24v would likely be the preffered option, but strangely, from what ive seen about the web, its actually easier to fit the 1.8t and as its not something ill be doing myself then it seems more sensible to go for that.

Like I said though, just looking at options. Hopefully a decent 2.9 engine will appear in the classifieds or ebay or something.

  andycowuk said:

match, petrol, insurance claim.

 

thats about it really.

Now theres an option I hadnt considered for mine...

My original plans for this year were, get cams fitted and remap, cars practically finished, spend money on track days.

What ive ended up with is, cams and remap done, 1 trackday leaving dead engine, plans for rest of year. Get car running again in one form or another. :roll:

I dont think the vr gearbox fits on to a 1.8t, not without a bit of work anyway. Probably minimum of changing the bellhousing.

I would be looking at getting either the 210 or 225 engine, decent intercooler to start with and preferably on factory management and with a 6 speed box?

Would likely cost more initially than fixing the vr but then I would have bits to sell on, quaifed box, vgi+268's, and all the other vr bits id be left with.

Once its done I would have more scope for upgrading instead of having a vr that the only upgrade left would be a bvh, or charger.

Im a big fan of the vr6 so we dont need to go into how much more character it has, but im looking for info on putting a 1.8t into my corrado.

2 reasons for this, vr6 needs a rebuild which will cost a fortune, and be basically the same spec it is just now, I feel I can probably get a lot more out of a 1.8t for the money.

There was a black 1.8t for sale on the forum a while back that used to be a heavily modded vr, bvh, schrick bits and the rest, and the graphs showed the 1.8ts torque curve to be very similar, just a lot further up the range. This is the sort of thing im looking for.

So, whats involved in doing this in a vr thats different from the usual fitting it to a 4 cylinder C. Is it easier or more difficult? Would I still be able to use my vr gearbox as I want to keep the quaife?

All info and comments welcome.

Got an email back from Vince, he recommends only using the JE pistons on forced induction cars and said to use the 82.5mm pistons Rpmayne mentioned.

Its going to cost a lot, so im going to consider a 1.8t conversion as an alternative before commiting, will start another thread regarding this.

edit: Vinces name in red, the main man, first time ive seen that feature. :lol:

All engine mounts

All suspension bushes

Suspension changed to coilovers

All top mounts

Anti roll bars

Inlet manifold

Cams

Throttle body

Fuel pump twice, once an old spare then fitted a brand new one.

Exaust

4 new speedlines after hitting a kerb

Ignition leads twice

Spark plugs twice

Oil and filter 3 times

Clutch

New diff and gearbox rebuilt

Throttle cable

Radiator

Coolant twice

Brake fluid twice

All calipers, disks, pads, hoses and copper pipes replaced, then front pads again.

Battery

Wipers

Grill

Parcel shelf

Rear lights

On my 4th set of tyres

3 Wheel alignments

All in 19 months and 12 thousand miles and the car is currently in need of a new bottom end. :roll:

I think thats just the nature of forged pistons, they expand as they heat up so are slightly loose when cold causing the piston slap.

Cool, im still in need of a crankshaft at the moment and could probably use the conrods as well, pick the 6 closest matched from the 12.

Just sent stealth an email actually. Am I right in thinking 82mm is the standard vr piston size?

Would probably go for the same as yourself with the 82.5mm for the same reason, hopefully ill get away with not going for a remap.

I doubt theres much increase in the power tbh unless the engines had a lot of other work at the same time, maybe up to 10bhp if that at the top end, probably more of a difference mid range. How do you find yours since its been doneRpmayne?

Kev, I would have liked to take the time over the summer to fit a 24v but I have no garage or driveway and its not the kind of thing to do in the street. :(

Option 2 is getting more and more tempting, JE Pistons with rings and pins for $740...

Providing I get the crank and pistons from the other thread I cant decide between options 2 and 3 at the moment.

Option 2 I can get EIP Pistons for $800 (best price so far) and would have to pay for a rebore and other associated parts, but would save in not having to buy a block, and would have a good engine at the end up.

Option 3 I would also have to pay out for a rebore, but would also have to buy a block or probably full knackered 2.8 engine such as g60renshaw's, though would save money not buying pistons and would likely have parts to sell on.

Decisions, desicions... :?

  billinjahg60 said:

Could i make one easily enough or is buying the only solution?

Long bolt with a 17mm head and a nut same size with some big washers has done the job for me on numerous occasions.

Screw the nut pretty far down the bolt then put the washers on, put the bolt head on the piston, wind back the nut till the washers are pressing on the caliper then hold the nut with one spanner and turn the bolt head clockwise with the other. This piston will turn with the bolt once its under a bit of load.