MattWilde

G60 | Bordeaux Pearl | Aylesbury, Bucks Price: £2500 Description: After passing my bike test and taking to it like a duck to water I realise I’m not going to be using the G60 as the fun vehicle. I’ve owned it for some 4 or 5 years and in that time I have had a lot of mechanical work done to it. Engine: The engine was built by Eurospec racing in America and fitted by Voodoo Motorsport here in blighty. The block has been overbored and uses a hardened steel ABA crank to increase displacement to 2.0L. The pistons are forged items as are the rods, the whole bottom end has been balanced. A Schrick baffled sump keeps the oil in the right place during cornering. The head has lager inlet and exhaust valves and has been ported. Bosch red top injectors have also been fitted to ensure the fuel can flow properly. The cam is a Eurospec 276 profile and is timed using a vernier pulley. The G-Lader has been ported to Jabba stage 4 and has a 68mm pulley fitted, it has covered about 10K miles. A charge cooler from a Lotus Esprit has been adapted to fit to keep the charge cool and give the air a short and smooth flow to the inlet manifold. A Mocal oil cooler keeps everything nice and cool. Gearbox: The flywheel has been lightened and balanced by Oselli engineering in Witney. The gearbox was rebuilt with new bearings by Bucks Transmissions and has a Wavetrac LSD fitted. Suspension: Weitec Hicon GT height adjustable coilover suspension and has poly bushes fitted all around. New top mounts were also fitted. Brakes: Drilled discs but otherwise standard. Interior: Full black leather. Heated front seats. Boost gauge. 6x9” speakers in the parcel shelf. Phoenix Gold 10” sub and amplifier. Exterior: Lupo Gti wipers fitted. Smoked side repeaters and half smoked rear light units fitted. De-badged front grill. G60 BBS alloys refurbished and have good tyres on all 4 wheels. German style number plates, UK ones present. Security: Clifford Concept 650 alarm. This work was completed late 2009 and I’ve had a great time driving it for 6,000 miles since then. Only covered 1,628 miles between the last 2 MOT’s MOT expires 18/07/2012 Bad bits: The sunroof doesn’t slide, it only tilts. There is some rot on the offside rear arch, photo taken to show. Speaker grills for the front door speakers are missing. Handbrake lever cover is broken. Heated seats don’t work. The wing mirrors don’t adjust. Some lacquer is lifting on the wing mirrors. The headlining on the sunroof has drooped. There are the usual stone chips, dents and scratches expected on a 20 year old car. Currently SORN 07739181995 [email protected] I have more photos, please e-mail and I will send them on. They are too large to upload all of them on here. Feel free to ask any questions Matt

Mine is a 91 and has the sunken oil cap style if that helps.

Can they cope with low G60's or is that a general RR thing? It has a baffled sump too but if they can then I'll be interested, I need a figure for my insurance!

Finally got it fixed (i think!). Thanks for the suggestion Supercharged, I had thought of that and been through all the bulbs, fuses and any wire I could see after taking bits of dash apart and the cover of the boot hatch, but all looked fine. The problem? The weather seal between the hatch and the chassis was in a poor state where the lock is situated and it has always been on my to do list. I finally got one from 8vmatt and fitted it last night. The old rubber was so worn that when you pressed the button to release the boot there was no resistance in the button and no indication that it had done anything except you could now open the boot. With the new seal in place the button has a resistance and a definite 'pop' when pressed. With this extra pressure on the lock the electrical problem has been fixed, I'm guessing the earth or another part of the circuit runs through the lock and now the two halves are in contact all the electrical parts of the hatch work. Saved me a bill from the auto-electricans. Hope this helps anyone else that gets some odd happenings!

Also thanks to 8vMatt for the boot seal, again it was received quickly and I was kept informed. My car is getting better each day :)

Thanks to G60Knight for the fusebox cover, kept me up to date at all stages and delivered the item well packaged and very quickly. Thanks :)

If it is what I think it is, the it will basically prevent the ISV bleeding off boost when it goes over 1bar. Can be dangerous if the car can't put the fuel in to cope with the extra air, this can lead to detonation. As far as I can see, little things like this will rarely do much good. To get some good power out of your G60 you need to concentrate on breathing, so head work, intercoolers, exhaust, charger porting and pulley size reduction, a good map and mix that in with an oil cooler and bigger injectors......basically, not cheap!! I've not looked at exactly what a bypass valve is, but your description makes me think about it. Hope that helps, have a look at JMC's build thread for a good base to improve your engine.

Excellent, I'll definitely take the boot rubber. I'll wait for the fusebox cover just incase a black one turns up, but I may be back in touch. Could you PM me your account details and I'll transfer the funds over and PM you my address. Thanks again!

Ahhhh, that's good news. Was really worried it would be washing out my bores and flooding the engine at start up. Will plug the fuse back in tomorrow. Thanks again

Hi, Both for an early Corrado. As the title suggests I need a black fuse box cover and the rubber weather seal for the boot if anyone has them lying around :)

Another bump just incase some one new reads it before I send her off to the autoelectricians

Fuel pump relay is pretty much brand new. The one in there now is number 167, but I do have a number 67 one around somewhere. I'll swap them over and see what happens. Cheers

Hey everyone, Just got my C taxed in preparation for the spring and have given it a clean and a bit of a drive to clear out the cobwebs. I parked it in the garage all locked up and safe and dry and went inside. I went back into the garage later and I could hear the fuel pump was still running and the only way I could get it to turn off was to remove the fuse. Any ideas what would be causing this? It wasn't a short run as I was messing about with the pump relay and getting a light so I could see how to put it back in again, so it was running for a good few minutes.

Bump

Hi everyone, I've had a search but to no avail. I'm guessing the problem revolves around a dodgy earth connection but I'm not sure where to start looking. When I put the rear heated screen switch on the light in the actual switch that indicates that it is in use flickers. When this is happening the fog light switch indicator light flickers too. The fog light switch also flickers when I put the car in reverse, preventing the reverse lights from working. The fog lights work when the fog light switch is activated, but they are not on when the light in the switch is flickering when the switch is off but the rear screen switch is on, and the rear screen works, it just takes ages as I guess it's not working when the switch lights are flickering. Phew! Ask as many questions as you need to as that probably doesn't make much sense! Thanks in advance