Henny

Right... As an ex-moderator here and someone who spent far too much of his life posting on here (just shy of 11,000 posts over the last 16.5 years!), and as someone who witnessed the indifference/coldness/clique of the old CCGB board (even though I was a member of CCGB before some of them owned a Corrado having got my first back in '98 and originally joining CCGB that year too! :scratch:), I still think that joining the CF and CCGB is the way forwards for both entities, AS LONG AS the information on here stays in the public domain and is not put behind a paywall or similar...

Forums are struggling in the new age of social media. The information held on this site is far to valuable to lose. The CCGB has had a large injection of fresh blood which appears (I'm not a member as I don't own a 'rado anymore) to have changed the base culture which was the large part of the issues it had, and was basically the reason that Andi started The Corrado Forum in the first place! If the current owner of the CF (Toby?) is up for talks about the merger/take over/buy out, then I really think that now is the time to do it, and that the current CCGB comittee have the CCGB in a good (and friendly!) state....

Meh, that's my tupence worth anyway, for what it's worth..... :)

Sorry, but the only thing I can think of when I hear about this is this:

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Probably an age thing.... ;)

works fine in Firefox V22.0 for me....

yeah, from experience, I always ignore white paint timing marks if I didn't make 'em myself! you never know what they're supposed to line up with and if they were just there for a cam-belt change, not setting the timing...

OK, Sitting comfortably? ;)

Yes, a boost leak could cause this kind of issue, although with it "boosting" over 3000rpm, I'd still be more inclined to say it's a timing issue...

I can't remember off the top of my head what the MFA readings should be.... There's a thread on here somewhere that'll tell you if that's good or not. Use the search to find it... ;)

An SNS anti-lag chip IS a remap chip.... it should have been spec'd to match whatever changes have been made to your engine, probably around the time it was Stage 5'd and it's probably had a smaller pulley installed to give it more boost, so would have needed the new chip to be able to use that properly without melting the engine....

The Boost return pipe delete is often done.... apparently it's good for a couple more BHP when it's hot outside (you're not trying to re-compress hot boost making it hotter, only taking in air from outside into the charger), but the noise always used to bug me, so I only ran with mine off for about a week, then put it back on again! The fact that you're getting a loud sneeze goes to show you're getting boost to the throttle body again, in my mind at least, pointing to timing rather than a boost leak...

Setting cam timing can be a sod on the G60... there's two little dots on the cam wheel which have to be on either side of a small pointer on the cam cover... on the other side of the cam wheel, there's a single dot, which has to line up with something too which is nigh-on impossible to see (I can't remember off the top of my head what it is supposed to line up with though.... too many beers tonight!) It's very easy to get it a tooth out when using the twin dots, as it doesn't always line up 100%, so I always (after I got it wrong!) used to turn the engine over a few times by hand, and then re-check the timing marks are spot on. Also be aware that there are 2 timing marks on the fly-wheel... one is TDC, the other is the 6degrees marker... make sure you use the TDC mark when timing up the cam! ;)

Cam changes can have a good effect on G60s... basically anything that helps them breath in or out better will make a marked difference to a G60... Be aware though, that to get the best out of any modifications like this, you'll need to get a map (chip) to suit the modifications... ;) The standard cam is actually pretty good, so unless you're on a real hunt for every last bit of power you can get out of a G60 (and have VERY deep pockets and lots of patience!) or are planning a few modifications and will get a remap to suit all of the changes, then I wouldn't bother... :)

nope.... boost in a G60 should be present as soon as you use the throttle pedal... Do you have a boost/vacuum gauge fitted to see what's actually going on? Very much worth getting one fitted it you haven't... :)

The SNS no-lag technology doesn't reduce boost lag as you'd get in a Turbo while it spools up, as G60s don't suffer from this kind of lag due to the way they work... While the G60 engine is running, it's always producing positive boost. The throttle body bypass (the vent on the bottom) allows the engine to not use some of the positive pressure boost when it's not required (like on idle or on deceleration) so you'll never actually get a boost lag from a G60 supercharger setup...

The SNS No-Lag map removes the "lag" when the ECU switches over from using the lambda and other sensors to using the WOT map, which, on a well tuned engine can feel like a bit of a pause when you floor it as the ECU switches mode, works out what's going on and where it is in the map, then adjusts the fuelling/timing according to the map...

Your 3000rpm kick would suggest to me that your timing is out on the engine... I'd be checking that the cam is timed up properly and not a tooth out if I were you, as it's very easy to get this wrong on a G60 (I've done it myself!) and it makes the car drive very differently from how it should.... very flat at the bottom end, then a sudden rush at about 3K, but no real "go!" to it to speak of....

nope, stick with the paper filter with a G60... cotton or (even worse!) foam ones let too many small particles through which turn into a grinding paste within the charger causing excessive wear and eventual failure of the charger... :(

Don't forget, those parts on Bar-Tek are brand new uprated parts.... second hand ones pop up on ebay and on quite a few forums regularly, but at least you can see in their pics exactly which parts you need to get hold of! ;)

BAR-TEK do a full kit of the pipes, including the U-bend you need to go from the charger to the intercooler...

This one -> http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/lshop,showdetail,21250,en,1374144736-21293,tuning.1080551703,2160009,195,Tshowrub--tuning.1080551703,.htm

And this one -> http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/lshop,showdetail,21250,en,1374144736-21293,tuning.1080551703,2160087,196,Tshowrub--tuning.1080551703,.htm

Just under €600 all in, which isn't cheap, but it's beautifully made stuff and spot on fit-wise... :)

Yup, can be collected (by arrangement!) from either CW12 3RP or M50 3XW depending on if I'm at work or not (second is work address) 8)

Pics below... 3 of the wheels have no damage, one has a very light scuff (done about a week after I had them refurbished! :mad:) and the fifth with no tyre needs a full refurb, but is not buckled so there shouldn't be any problems getting it refurbed should you wish... :)

Got a set of 4 near mint Borbet Cs with 215,45,16 Goodyear GSD3s on 'em and a somewhat ratty 5th spare without a tyre... They're 4x100, but have a 40 offset, so I'm supplying 10mm spacers (and longer bolts) with them to make them fit a Corrado perfectly... They also fit over the 305mm Brembos when used with the spacers... I'm after £300 for 'em...

And, just for variety, this is being posted from my MacBook Air. OS-X 10.8.3 using Safari, logged in as me (obviously!) and I'm getting the same mix of thumbnails and text links as I got on my Win7 PC... :) :geek: :study:

*edit* and the same on OS-X using Firefox 14.01

This has sometimes happened to me when I've typed something in using the advanced editor and then pressed "preview post"...

Deffo had the same when editing posts though as per O/P...

:dance:I was right... they only showed up as text links...

*EDIT* interestingly, I just tried this in Internet Explorer9 and ALL were text links, not pictures... Although I wasn't logged in...

*EDIT EDIT!* Having just logged in using IE9, I see the same as I did under Firefox, (ie, I can see the fire extinguisher pic, but not the A6 one in my post above...)

OK, so a couple more pics to try and help...

"What I See1.jpg" is what is shown on my screen when I look at my post above with the fire extinguisher and A6 pictures

"What I See2.jpg" is what is shown on my screen when I look at the post I mentioned in my A6 thread...

"What I See3.jpg" is what is shown on my screen when I use the media uploader on the forum to show the "?" icon I was on about compared to the thumbnails of older pictures I've uploaded in the past...

All grabs were on a machine using Firefox 22.0 on Windows 7 with no blockers or other odd software running... And, as a prediction BEFORE I hit submit reply, I'm gonna predict that non of these pictures will show up as thumbnails, but only as text links to me... :)

Ah, interesting... :scratch: I edited my post above and added a couple of pictures... The pic of my Corrado interior after a fire extinguisher went off shows up as a thumbnail, but the one of my A6 doesn't, yet both work when clicked...

When I used the forum uploader, the A6 pic shows as a ? icon, where the extinguisher photo was already there, and had a thumbnail version of the pic as it's icon... Is this because there's a bit of forum software that's not creating the thumbnails properly anymore?

Andi? It did it to me too, and you know how many photos I've posted here over the years!

Using Win 7 and Firefox. No blockers, and done it from both work and home using 2 different computers...

Tried to upload photos via the forum uploader into a post (#12) in my A6 thread (link in sig!) and they just ended up as clickable text links, so deleted them and rewrote the post using online versions of the pics from my randomlogic.co.uk domain.... all looked OK on the preview, but when I posted it, they appeared as text links of just the file name...

Thought it was just me, but having seen this thread, there's something definitely a bit weird going on with the forum...

VR6Pete? The parts from that VR will be wrong for a 1.8 16V... The 1.8 will have the early bonnet, wings, headlamps and bumper, where the '93 VR6 would have a late "humped" bonnet, larger flared wheel arches on the wings, different trim lines on the bumper and a different profile on the headlamp glass...

Happyeaster? if you can fix it for £400, I reckon you should... Keep your eye on ebay as there's quite a few 1.8s pop up in parts, and you may drop lucky and find the correct colour parts you require meaning no painting costs... Fitting of the bonnet, bumper, headlamp and wing are all pretty easy DIY jobs, with no welding required, just undoing some bolts/screws and taking your time to line things up properly before tightening the new ones back into place... :)

Good luck!

There aren't any 'original rubber ends', those ones come with the Power Rohr. Either you have a (later) plastic inlet elbow with corrugations around the corners and a flat spot to allow a jubilee clip to fit around it, or you have an early inlet elbow which are rubber throughout.

 

76mm is about right, I believe it's actually specified as 3". So long as it fits over the MAF and throttle body there's no need to get too hung up on it!

 

Stone

AH! VR6, not 8V/16V! Sorry, grabbed the wrong end of the stick pretty firmly there! :lol:

I thought the point of the Power Rohr was that it was a simple swap for the original part, so used the original rubber ends? :shrug: The idea was that it's got much thinner walls than the standard plastic part and so has a bigger internal diameter allowing some more air in through it... (oh, and it that added a bit of "bling" to the bay! :lol: )

I may have left a few Chavs looking like they've selected reverse, and scared the odd Boxster too... ;)

The V8 is just mental sounding as it gets higher up in the revs... I'm seriously thinking about getting a different exhaust on it as it's just a little too understated IMHO... I just want to hear a little more of the burble through to the SCREAM she makes on her way up to her 6750rpm limit... it's a seriously addictive sound, but one that hurts the wallet pretty quickly if you keep doing it! :oops::eek:

Woo! Pics time! :) (Crappy phone pics, but pics non-the-less! :lol: )

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Thought it was about time to update this...

So, I've now clocked over 10K in "my little green tank" since I bought her with only a few minor problems, and one major one!

The major problem was when the viscous coupling that attaches the 12" fan to the engine (and is supposed to allow the fan to free-wheel and not spin quite as fast as the engine) seized up... Not good when doing a full bore take off from a set of lights. It'd just hit 6,500 rpm in second and was changing into third when the fan let go... Imagine a 12" hard plastic fan spinning at around 6500rpm being suddenly decelerated to about 2,000rpm and deciding to let go and, well basically, explode... well, that's what happened! :epicfail:

This resulted in large chunks of plastic fan blades being ejected from the front of the engine at high speed, causing 5 large gouges in the radiator, slight damage to the slam panel which caused the bonnet to pop open (thankfully the safety catch caught it!) and, rather madly, a massive surge of acceleration as the engine suddenly freed up a load of power from not having to drive a 12" fan at 6,500rpm any more!!! All happening at around 65mph! :eek:

Thankfully, it wasn't too bad damage wise and I managed to get the parts and fix it myself for under £250 all in (brand new radiator, brand new viscous coupling, second hand fan blades from an S8 ) and the car is now running even better than ever thanks to the coupling actually allowing the fan to spin at a reasonable rate, rather than being directly connected to the engine!

The minor problems include a couple of electrical gremlins and a pair of seized rear callipers causing the rear brakes to basically be dragging... solving that one added a massive 5mpg average onto my fuel economy (when it was averaging around 15mpg, that's a HUGE change!!!), and cost me the sum total of 3 hours of my time and about £30 in parts! Brake pads were only £12.95 for the rears! I was pleasantly shocked how cheap that was, and that was for a good make too, not cheapo ones! :dance:

I also am of the opinion that someone in the cars history has chipped it... I've been out in another car with the same engine, and it's nowhere near as quick as mine, even though it was pretty much identical spec! If it has been chipped, it's likely that it's now 350bhp! :shocked!: :norty:

I've not really done much else to it other than drive it due to lack of time... but I've been putting together a small stack of goodies for her which I'm aiming to fit over the next few weeks, including a DVD player (from J-DUB) and interface box to plug into the factory sat-nav, Bluetooth hands-free and an automatic reversing camera... also going to get the LPG system serviced and over-hauled as it's still got a slight (and very annoying) mis-fire when on LPG... Hell, I may even give her a wash at some point soon seeing as I've only done it twice since I owned her! :oops:

Glad you got it sorted... :) It's nice when it's something as simple as that, even if there it does initially make you feel a little embarrassed! ;)

I think it may be time to break out the multi-meter and find out what's actually happening on the wires when the switches are in each position at both ends of each wire...

To be honest, as soon as I saw X-Relay problems, and that you'd changed the relay, my first thought was "ignition switch"... I know you've been around the forum long enough to know what a PITA they are, and symptoms like those you describe in the first post can be as a result of back-feeding circuits enough to allow stuff to start working until the ignition switch finally allows the X-relay to fire as it should... For the price, I'd be seriously thinking about replacing the ignition switch, so at least you can rule it out of the equation... :)

Good luck!

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