jamin

Removing the oil filter carrier will make a lot easier and can then be done without removing manifold. Personally I'd renew oil cooler seal and filter carrier seal which are propbably equally old and brittle and been known to leak, and treat it to oil and filter change.

This too is good advice, I was thinking of getting the car serviced soon and so it would be a perfect time to get these sorts of jobs done also.

Yes, sorry, its a VR6. Many thanks for your advice here, most helpful.

Hi all,

Looks like I have a slight water leak coming from the oil cooler hose that connects to the engine block, I can see the hose looks almost split near the connector to the oil cooler but it like looks a nightmare to get to, can anyone offer any tips before I get my hands dirty?

Thanks in advance.

I'm 40 and bought my Corrado way back in 1999, so 18 years ownership, although it's spent the last 4 years in my garage due to issues, but its now back on the road (when its sunny!) thanks to Autoshack!

Thanks g0ldf1ng3r, that helps. I need to get a pair for the rear of mine.

i will go & take some of it how it is in a bit if i can & of the rubbing too if i can capture it

 

what do you mean when you say you are not convinced? do you mean that you are unsure if the 11.5mm ones will be ok?

Just the hub centric part - the disc has a shoulder that the wheel would originally locate on, I cant see how a narrow spacer could allow for this whilst also having a shoulder itself. Kinda hard to explain, which is why I'd like to see a pic if possible, not to worry if not.

My youngest (3) calls mine 'The Old Banger' :(

You need to educate them that its a 'classic' :-)

indeed lol

 

FYI i had a better look at the VR front under arches last night - quite a scuff on the arch liner & a few noticeable scuffs on the tires too. think i need to raise it up a tad because of the 10mm spacers

I'd like to see a pic of the spacers fitted if you adjust the suspension...I'm still not convinced of their fitment.

you could tell him that Mr J Clarkson called it a 20 grand ferrari back in the day ;)

Ha, so it seems he is right then!!! Hahahahaa

....'Ferrado' as that is what my youngest son calls it :-)

Looks nice, is it Aqua blue?

Certainly is, which is the best colour i'm lead to believe ;-)

http://www.st-suspensions.net/wheelspacerfinder/

 

part number D2 SET 56020078

 

it says 23mm but that is 11.5 per side

Thanks, I will check them out.

ive just put 10mm hubcentric's on my VR,which is lowered on KWV1's to a 2 finger gap between top of tire & bottom of arch, so as to fit the hispec 4 pots.....ive noticed if i go over a small hump backed bridge a little too quickly the weight on the downward travel is enough to cause a tiny rub on the outer tire edge

 

that is with OE speedlines

Thanks for the info!

looks great, i'll keep an eye out for you. I've got some 11mm hub centric spacers on mine. Can send you a link if you're interested

Yes please, I'd like to see what they look like.

Looks cracking :) Nice consistent numbers on the compression check too which must be reassuring :)

Yeah, definitely, also passed the MOT fine, only 2 minor notes about the rear brake lines, which they cleaned up anyway so more than happy with that.

Looking good mate, ride hight looks spot on

Thanks, i'd like to take the front a little lower, but then i'd have to remove the inner arches and I dont really want to do that.

Would also like to space the rear wheels our further, but I think the minimum for hub centric spacers would be around 25mm and that would be too far.

Looks lovely!

 

Very jealous you're going to make the summer months... mine is now looking like a huge job, so I might just make the tail end if I pull my finger out :(

Thanks - its been garaged for 4 years so its well overdue! Good luck with yours!

So....my car never made it onto the road in 2016, managed to get it to the MOT station, but then it refused to start completely. Ended up getting it low-loaded back home, and there it sat in my garage...until a few weeks ago.

I took the car to AutoShack in Bredfield, they had a good look at it and ended up replacing the fuel filter and non-return valve as it wasnt holding pressure - it seems now that the issues are fixed and now the car is MOT'd (passed with flying colours) and taxed for the summer :-)

The other good news is that they ran a compression test on the engine, and the numbers are bang on, which made me even happier!

Cleaned it up at the weekend, the original paint just keeps looking great!

I've got a massive list of things that need doing, but first is to get the stereo and speakers updated, along with giving the interior a damn good clean.

So nice to drive this car one more!

Seems that my issue was that the non-return valve was all gunked up. The pressure in the line was dropping as soon as the ignition was switched off.

My car is now MOT'd and taxed for the first time in 4 years!

Coming up for 17 years for me, although its stuck in the garage at the moment as it wont start :-(

As far as I am aware there is one crank sensor it's located as you look at the car from the front of the car just below the front engine mount on the right hand side of the lower engine block near the gearbox. It has a thick wire attached to it that clips apart. Really easy to change once you lift the front of the car up. Google its image. There is a wealth of info in here on it and the symptoms experienced when it goes.... And believe me hard starting especially when hot is one of the giveaways. You get no spark to the plugs and no fuel when cranking when this gives up but it becomes erratic as it fails.

 

There is also a camshaft sensor which is elsewhere and I have had no problem with that so not replaced it.

 

Interestingly I read that as this fails you loose 20 bop as the car uses the camshaft sensor as a fallback fail-safe mode. So when fixed power is restored and reliability takes a leap forward in terms of starting consistently. It worked for me for some months now.

Thanks for this info - I just found some more details on here also. Maybe I'll pull it out and cross check the part no. to make sure I have the right one!

Hi Guys,

I have just seen this and i have not seen any mention of the crank sensor. My car was getting harder and harder to start and was a bit inconsistent and odd infrequent cutting out at tickover. I'v had a split air inlet hose and seen the surging revs that that caused...Cleaned the ISV and MAF.. I did some reading in here and concluded that a dodgy crank sensor was a prime candidate. I bought a FIM brand fron ECP 79.99 fitted in minutes once the car was jacked up and the car has never missed a beat since... hot cold it starts first time every time. Hence I have not been on here for a while. I have had this issue since I bough the car a year ago but since I fixed this in Nov 2015 its been a fantastic runner. Note when you remove the old crank sensor there is a collar and seal on it that will probably stay in the hole. Make sure you get this out otherwise the new sensor will not seal and will leak oil. My cars running has been totally transformed

I might take a look at the crank sensor next then, thanks

Well, so far, so good. Replaced all three sensors tonight, cleaned up connectors etc. Ran the car for about 30 mins on idle, got the temps up to about 90 degrees, stopping and re-starting the car every 5 mins or so and it started just as it does from cold. It hasn't done that in a very long time.

 

I will repeat this at the weekend to be sure, but it looks like it might be fixed. Thanks again for the advice.

Ok so its not completely fixed, grrrrr!!

I let the car warm up on idle on the driveway (its SORN right now) Sunday morning for about half an hour, fans came on, good I thought. I switched the engine off, waited a minute or so, restarted and its fine. Switched the engine off again and left it for around 15 minutes, tried to restart, engine was turning over fine, but no ignition for a fair few seconds, then suddenly is splutters into life.

So it starts from cold fine if left for days in between, but wont start fine if left for 15+ minutes once its up to temperature. Not sure what to try next TBH. Car is cranking fine so I am thinking its the ECU holding off the ignition - I might try pulling a spark plug out to check that during the restart - if that's fine then I guess its fuel related.

What is the FPR by the way? Fuel Pump Relay?

So it is likely the blue one that was the cause

Yes - that's the one apparently - I changed all 3 to be sure.

cracking news - well done fella

 

fingers crossed Jim gets a similar result

Was an easy fix thanks to the advice on here!

yes, there is a good chance as its a common fault by all accounts.

Well, so far, so good. Replaced all three sensors tonight, cleaned up connectors etc. Ran the car for about 30 mins on idle, got the temps up to about 90 degrees, stopping and re-starting the car every 5 mins or so and it started just as it does from cold. It hasn't done that in a very long time.

I will repeat this at the weekend to be sure, but it looks like it might be fixed. Thanks again for the advice.

That cooling guide is most excellent, thanks for that. I ripped all three out last night, I've cleaned them up, but still going to replace them I think.

Aux water pump was replaced for new with no change. I have a spare sensor so will try that first, as sods law would have it I sold a fuel rail with fpr from a low mileage vr Las week!

Any update to this thread? I have exactly the same problem, starts 'on the button' when cold but once warm, takes a lot longer. I'm pretty sure I've also replaced my aux water pump, so hoping it's the sensor - where does this sensor live?

Would this show up as a fault on VAG-COM at all?