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jamin

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Everything posted by jamin

  1. This too is good advice, I was thinking of getting the car serviced soon and so it would be a perfect time to get these sorts of jobs done also.
  2. Yes, sorry, its a VR6. Many thanks for your advice here, most helpful.
  3. Hi all, Looks like I have a slight water leak coming from the oil cooler hose that connects to the engine block, I can see the hose looks almost split near the connector to the oil cooler but it like looks a nightmare to get to, can anyone offer any tips before I get my hands dirty? Thanks in advance.
  4. I'm 40 and bought my Corrado way back in 1999, so 18 years ownership, although it's spent the last 4 years in my garage due to issues, but its now back on the road (when its sunny!) thanks to Autoshack!
  5. Thanks g0ldf1ng3r, that helps. I need to get a pair for the rear of mine.
  6. Just the hub centric part - the disc has a shoulder that the wheel would originally locate on, I cant see how a narrow spacer could allow for this whilst also having a shoulder itself. Kinda hard to explain, which is why I'd like to see a pic if possible, not to worry if not. You need to educate them that its a 'classic' :-)
  7. I'd like to see a pic of the spacers fitted if you adjust the suspension...I'm still not convinced of their fitment.
  8. Ha, so it seems he is right then!!! Hahahahaa
  9. ....'Ferrado' as that is what my youngest son calls it :-)
  10. Certainly is, which is the best colour i'm lead to believe ;-) Thanks, I will check them out. Thanks for the info!
  11. Yes please, I'd like to see what they look like.
  12. Yeah, definitely, also passed the MOT fine, only 2 minor notes about the rear brake lines, which they cleaned up anyway so more than happy with that.
  13. Thanks, i'd like to take the front a little lower, but then i'd have to remove the inner arches and I dont really want to do that. Would also like to space the rear wheels our further, but I think the minimum for hub centric spacers would be around 25mm and that would be too far.
  14. Thanks - its been garaged for 4 years so its well overdue! Good luck with yours!
  15. So....my car never made it onto the road in 2016, managed to get it to the MOT station, but then it refused to start completely. Ended up getting it low-loaded back home, and there it sat in my garage...until a few weeks ago. I took the car to AutoShack in Bredfield, they had a good look at it and ended up replacing the fuel filter and non-return valve as it wasnt holding pressure - it seems now that the issues are fixed and now the car is MOT'd (passed with flying colours) and taxed for the summer :-) The other good news is that they ran a compression test on the engine, and the numbers are bang on, which made me even happier! Cleaned it up at the weekend, the original paint just keeps looking great! I've got a massive list of things that need doing, but first is to get the stereo and speakers updated, along with giving the interior a damn good clean. So nice to drive this car one more!
  16. Seems that my issue was that the non-return valve was all gunked up. The pressure in the line was dropping as soon as the ignition was switched off. My car is now MOT'd and taxed for the first time in 4 years!
  17. Coming up for 17 years for me, although its stuck in the garage at the moment as it wont start :-(
  18. Thanks for this info - I just found some more details on here also. Maybe I'll pull it out and cross check the part no. to make sure I have the right one!
  19. I might take a look at the crank sensor next then, thanks
  20. Ok so its not completely fixed, grrrrr!! I let the car warm up on idle on the driveway (its SORN right now) Sunday morning for about half an hour, fans came on, good I thought. I switched the engine off, waited a minute or so, restarted and its fine. Switched the engine off again and left it for around 15 minutes, tried to restart, engine was turning over fine, but no ignition for a fair few seconds, then suddenly is splutters into life. So it starts from cold fine if left for days in between, but wont start fine if left for 15+ minutes once its up to temperature. Not sure what to try next TBH. Car is cranking fine so I am thinking its the ECU holding off the ignition - I might try pulling a spark plug out to check that during the restart - if that's fine then I guess its fuel related. What is the FPR by the way? Fuel Pump Relay?
  21. Yes - that's the one apparently - I changed all 3 to be sure.
  22. Was an easy fix thanks to the advice on here! yes, there is a good chance as its a common fault by all accounts.
  23. Well, so far, so good. Replaced all three sensors tonight, cleaned up connectors etc. Ran the car for about 30 mins on idle, got the temps up to about 90 degrees, stopping and re-starting the car every 5 mins or so and it started just as it does from cold. It hasn't done that in a very long time. I will repeat this at the weekend to be sure, but it looks like it might be fixed. Thanks again for the advice.
  24. That cooling guide is most excellent, thanks for that. I ripped all three out last night, I've cleaned them up, but still going to replace them I think.
  25. Any update to this thread? I have exactly the same problem, starts 'on the button' when cold but once warm, takes a lot longer. I'm pretty sure I've also replaced my aux water pump, so hoping it's the sensor - where does this sensor live? Would this show up as a fault on VAG-COM at all?
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