Bog Standard VR6

I'm a geek: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=71232

I used to be able to get 35mpg on steady motorway trips, but general use was generally averaging around 27-28. I posted some overall running cost figures when I sold my VR6 after 9 years: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=71232

Yes, just imagine dropping 50p in a box for every mile as you drive along ....... On the other hand, imagine your favourite mile of twisty road and 60 seconds (or less ;) ) of that lovely VR6 soundtrack - all for just 50p - a bargain!!!

I agree, if you were to look for the full cost of ownership, you should include the cost of capital - but you should probably apply that to all the outgoings i.e. the full £36K outlay over 9 years i.e. about £15K interest could have been earned if it had been invested rather than spent on buying insuring, feeding the car. This becomes really expensive when you think about buying a new car (which I have just done - a new MkII TT). Quite apart from the depreciation on a new car - when you add in the cost of capital (e.g. investing £25K rather than buying a depreciating car) - it would put you off ever buying a new car! The big advantage of running a "classic" car like a Corrado is the minimal depreciation and capital tied up in it. I almost regret selling it now .......

Yeh, I was pretty happy overall. I think I was lucky to have nothing major go wrong and push up the maintenance costs. At 12 years old it was still on its original clutch and exhaust, with no sign/sound of the chain tensioners needing attention. Maybe I was just lucky (or drove it too gently .....)

Hi, I did this job a while back - my motor jammed/over heated and blew the fuse. As well as the vwvortex link above, which was useful, I put a few more pics on my thread at the time: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=65132 As already said, it is worth taking a few photos as you dismantle to assist putting everything back together again. I found the hardest part is removing the mechanism - the rear light wiring, windscreen wiper wiring/hose, etc. were all intertwined with the actuator mechanism. Good luck - let me know if you want more pictures (I only posted some originally).

Okay, so as I’ve just sold my VR6 after 9 great years of ownership, and being a bit of a numbers nerd, I’ve worked out some average running costs. They relate to one of the last VR6’s – registered April ’96 and as I got her on her third birthday more or less, these numbers relate to the 9 years from 3 years old to just over 12 years old, during which I did almost 83K miles (9k per year) and averaged 27mpg. I didn’t customise anything on her – just regular servicing and replacing anything that broke or wore out. ..............Depreciation..Insurance....Tax/MOT.....Petrol.......Serv/Maint.....Total Total........£10,000........£7,625.......£1,685........£11,112....£5,336...........£35,759 Per year....£1,097..........£836.........£185...........£1,219.....£585.............£3,922 Per mile....£0.12...........£0.09........£0.02..........£0.13.......£0.06............£0.43 %............28%..............21%..........5%.............31%..........15%..............100% (Sorry, I couldn't find an easy way to insert a table) Obviously a lot of these costs varied through the 9 years. Depreciation would have been less each year (although probably dropped more so in the last year given current petrol prices etc. – I sold for £2,500). Insurance strangely started at 700, peaked at 1,200 and ended up at 300 (maybe that’s just me getting old ....). Petrol obviously just doubled from 800p.a. to 1,600p.a. Surprisingly, the service and maintenance costs stayed pretty steady each year (just depending upon one-off mis-haps or failures). Overall, £36K seems an awful lot of money, but then again 4K p.a. for a performance car isn’t bad going. I’ll get my coat ..........

Riley, you were spot on - but I'd never have found where that thing went myself, so thanks. For everyone else who has one of these rolling around, it seems to be a bracket to support the back of the fuse box shroud/shelf. The four "prongs" locate on a metal bracket. You fit it pointing up (not sure that makes sense, but you'll know when you try it) and the big "prong", on the side opposite to the four prongs, acts as a support for the back of the fuse box shroud/shelf. Thanks again. Billcor, don't worry, no offense taken (or intended) just a good larf ... :lol: Thanks all.

Thanks Riley, that could make sense as the RAC guy was fiddling around the fuse box last year at some point when the rear spoiler jammed, blew its fuse, which turned out to be shared by the immobilser, so she wouldn't start. I'll have a look in the morning when it's light again. Ta. If not, then it's "gisintin the bin, even if it didny cumooty it" (Have we invented a new language, or just taken the p**s out of the Scots (hopefully not the Irish ;) )

Aye, but what does it gisinty????? ;)

I found this rolling around in the back. I can't see where it has come from. It's about 2 1/2" long. It has a code on it: VW 535 858 716. Any ideas? 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf20080713_bit pics_070.JPG[/attachment:2o2zh86n] If that was too easy, I also found this loose in the engine bay - obviously a generic fastener, but I can't for the life of me see where it has come from. 20080714_bit pics_083.JPG[/attachment:2o2zh86n] Ta.

There's pictures on this previous post (if the link doesn't work, do a search for +roof +rack and you'll see one called "Time running out to buy a roof rack" or something) viewtopic.php?f=3&t=43066&hilit=+roof+rack

I went for the Thule system for my windsurf board and gear. It included the "short roof" attachment system - the front cross bar hooks under the front of the door opening, but the rear bar just sits on the roof over the back side window. The two cross bars are linked by another bar running front to rear on each side, then there is another fitting that hooks under the rear of the door opening and pulls down on the mid point of the fore/aft bar. This is hard to explain in words .... In effect the whole system is held down by two hooks into the door opening, which in my view makes the rear cross member insecure as it was held down by the hook mid-way between the two i.e. the clamping effect is front biased, but it seemed to work. It was only later that I discovered that you can hook the clamping hooks under the rubber seal of the back side window - there are even two little arrows on the rubber seal to indicate where to place the hook/foot. That is what I do now, without the short roof bar mid-way clamp and it feels much more secure. So all I can say is the Thule system works well for me - but don't bother with the short roof pack.

Hi there, I won't turn this into a for sale post - but you know you want to..... it's only money (petrol ......) I'll hopefully get a for sale post up in a week or two when it comes back from the alloys being refurbed and gets a good wash and clean before taking some pics. Shame to see it go ...........

Hi, I've been reading (and occasionally posting) on this great forum for a few years now and I've noticed a few members in Ireland and specifically N. Ireland, where I am. As I'm going to be selling my VR6 soon (and will of course be submitting a formal advert to the "For Sale" section here), I was wondering how many forum members there were in Ireland/N. Ireland? I'd be keen for it to go to an enthusiast from the forum, but I wouldn't expect much interest from those of you over on the "mainland" for obvious logistical reasons. But if there aren't many of us Paddys ;) on the forum then I'll have to advertise elsewhere too.