Simon69

Laughing... Yea, ED38 (waste of time unless you want to stretch your rubber & slam ur ride, dude...) Club GTi (seems slightly "overrun" by a certain "personality"..) And here on the C forum (which is actually ok!) I've decided not to sell it as don't see the point if people only think it's worth £1500, I may as well keep it, either leave it in the C (and give the C to the misses) or build a MK1 "toy" and stick it in that. Hope I haven't pi55ed anyone off as that was not the intention. Cheers Simon

At the mo I'm thinking £3500 for the complete car (inc tranny), I'll think about it over the weekend and if that's what I decide I'll put it in the for sale section (and flea bay)... Cheers Simon

Yea it currently resides in my 94 Corrado VR6. Cars pretty good, steadily replacing rubbers, dampers, brake lines etc etc but the shell is straight and rust free, interior is just about perfect... Hmmm need to stop now or I'll want to keep it again!! :grin:

Kev spoke to Vince, you can get all the bits apart from the gears, so if you stripped teeth or broke a gear your into getting new ones machined. There is a couple of places in Coventry that do this also I know a good place in Italy too, there would be a cost but cheaper than a new box and saves scrapping the whole box for the sake of a gear. Was trying to remember the ratio's last night, 1st is about stock, 6th is about 25mph per 1000rpm and the rest are nice and close in between lol... It basically gets rid of that horrible gap between 2nd and 3rd plus it closes up all the rest a bit too, it's kind of nice. Can't really say enough about the diff, anyone who does not have one cannot possibly realise how much of a difference they make and that's just with stock VR power, once you start tuning it they become essential in my opinion, I have no idea how some of these people with 1.8T's and forced induction VR's manage, their cars must have crap dynamics... Maybe just put the whole car up for sale, £3k the lot then they can either have a very expensive VR with a free gearbox OR a very expensive gearbox and a free car LOL... Hey ho, cheers for now Simon

Yea same guy, I used to work for Prodrive, I did some of the performance packs they sell through Subaru UK (for my sins lol...) among other things, hence the bit of turbo experience. You should have my return PM, have a chat with Vince, I would say if your just using it on the road (i.e. no slicks at santa pod) then you should be ok. I too have never heard of a Gemini breakage but the septic's seem to have broken a few Quaife boxes and they can't be that much difference, however, (most) of em can't shift / launch to save their lives so it's not surprising... (Que flames from the septic's teehee...) Stock VR ratio's are not bad once you shorten the final drive, makes 1st and 2nd a bit low though, FW torque can get a bit crazy especially with forced induction, you already have a Quiafe though? Cheers Simon

Hey Kev, It's got helical gears & syncro's, can't remember the exact ratio's. 1st is high, 6th is about 25mph per 1000rpm, 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th are nice and close. It was originally done for a 16vT for track / road use but it transformed the stock VR6 C and I'm really not sure about selling... But i'm thinking of going back to WRX's so there is no point in having a £3k VW transmission cluttering up the place! Torque, hmmmm... As you know the Gemini boxes were originally designed as race and rally boxes so you'd hypothesise something in the region of 350-400ft/lbs but its helical not straight cut so that means less, then on the other hand it's FWD so too much torque (without slicks) will just spin up the wheels (protecting the box). Personally I'd say it's perfect for a FWD chassis, I'm toying with putting together a MK1 16v screamer on TB's and using it in that.... Or selling it lol... And yea, there are "similar" ones about but as you know, it's not the look it's the quality of the metallurgy that counts ;) I could be wrong but I think the Gemini stuff is pretty damn good. Cheers Simon

I think I'd struggle getting anything for them on flea bay too.... ;)

Not sure I can re-sell those on Flea-Bay... ;)

Hi all, I currently have the aforementioned Gemini / Quaife combo in the front of my VR6. It was purchased from Stealth several years ago to use in a 16v MK1 and Vince re-built it into a VR6 casing about 6 months ago. Vince would be able to "vouch" for it's provenance The reason for posting is that I am considering selling it but I have absolutely no idea of what it's value would be Can anyone help? Cheers Simon btw, if this should be in for sale or something I apologise but it's not actually for sale (yet)

Well good news on the wheels (from a parts lasting longer point of view lol) Pretty damn tight? ;) well I can't remember the torque value off the top of my head but it's high! The SCCA guys in the US over tighten them to help stop bearing failure too, so I usualy torque em them give em an extra swing... We are talking two foot long torque wrench here I would say x2 removals of the CV with a bl**dy great hammer will have "seen off" the bearing for good! I seem to recall mentioning at the time that it would be best to change the lot, expensive, but best. You can't really smack roundy roundy parts about like that an then expect them to last for long. On a side note, I've just pushed both out on my VR (I'm putting my Gemini in and thought I'd pull em and re-pack the grease on the bench) both sides had lock-tight in em, but a quick smack with the dead blow was enough to shock em free. Has anyone else found lock-tight in there? I know it's more £££ but I'd change the hub as well as the bearing, it's likely that they are original but more because of the way the CV's seem to jam in it, seems like the hub may have some issues too you know... Cheers

Hi mate, Your not having much luck are you!!! ;) Sorry don't mean to take the P. The drone sounds to me like bearing, when you got the new ones did you change the hub too (bit with bolt holes in that goes round)? Did you see them do the job? It's possible they buggered the seal or otherwise damaged the unit as it was fitted. When the car is jacked up (i.e. wheel free of the ground) is there any play? You should be able to grab the wheel at 12 / 6 and at 9 / 3 and NOT feel any play in the bearing (like the MOT testers do basically) Also check all the others too, just to be on the safe side. Umm last thing, when you fitted the outer CV, did you torque the hub nut properly? They need doing up F'ing tight and (among other things) they keep the bearing & hub "together" in the up-right, so if it's loose (or not tight enough) you can get bearing and / or hub failure or premature wear. Lastly, not being funny but you have umm well lol lets say non std size and ET wheels, this will also bring about premature and / or excessive wear, of course I know there's like a million (ok a few) people also running similar who may or may not have any problems...

LOL @ Kev, naa Dave's back, it's a m

Hi there, Could I meet up with you one day (at your convenience of course) to run a test on my ABS? The light is on all the time, I suspect a rear hall sender but would prefer to check rather than just ordering it... It's a 94/95 VR6 with the 2x2 Cheers Simon

As you say, once the "building blocks" are in place you can just "play" until you hit your own personal "sweet spot". I have the 0.6 and the 0.8 exhaust housings, got them both when I ordered the main unit, used to swap the bu**ers back and forth on my scooby lol I blew one of my 2lt's to bits with the 0.8 unit. I had the fuel an ign working nice so just kept adding boost a bit at a time ;) got it running 3.41bar MAP and was doing a 5th gear run (6 speed box) when number 3 rod bent and that broke the piston! Trouble was, the motor was turning 7800rpm at the time so it made a bit of a mess LOL... made me jump too! I think with turbo's you kind of have to have a power figure in mind when you start then you can kind of "match" your components up a bit. Otherwise you get what I'd call the "yank mentality" were they all want 2 million wheel hp so they fit a turbo the size of a dustbin lid that's designed for a 7lt circle track car... Certainly (I would say) for a daily (front) driver 300hp / 300ft.lbs is more than enough for 80% of situations but it's nice to be able to crank the boost in the higher gears for when you just HAVE to hit 160+ ;) As you say, most of the time it's about fast spool and a flat torque curve Have to agree with you on the little Rover, have driven a few (mainly in the back of Elise's) and they really like to sing, have you tried an S2000? No bl**dy torque but bu**er me they like to rev :) Took one up the freeway with a supercharger on and it was pretty damn good, would love to try a turbo one. I would try moving your MAP sensor closer, also make the pipe ID smaller, I would say 6 - 7mm is too big, 2 - 3mm is plenty. We tried those BMC's but found they gave too much inlet depression, have you tried a manometer just in front of the turbo entrance to measure it? That could be why yours feels "flat" when you put a duct onto the front. Totally agree about most grunt for minimum boost, get the efficiency up and your putting less heat into the intake and just running everything so much sweeter. You make a good point about the VR weight, I too have had 16v T (in a Scirocco) and I had to put a fair amount of work into getting it to "hook-up" I was working for Spax at the time though and it was kind of fun "picking" all the technical brains, I got a lot out of it anyway lol I am fortunate in that I have a Gemini 6MT with Quaife and I concur with your comments about "learning to drive it" again! Have you considered going to Haldex?

K-Jet fuel pump is very good and will support BIG hp numbers when used in a conventional FI system (i.e. not K-Jet type) If your trying to do it "on the cheap" I'd go for a spacer metal gasket and leave the rods / pistons alone (at least until you blow it for the first time lol). Scirocco manifolds cost a bloody fortune, just use the stock one (at least until you can afford a proper short runner "log"). G60 loom, management and sensors (unless your happy with your ability to MegaSquirt) Custom down-pipe Sprinter Van (or similar) Intercooler off eBay, plumb it in with some exhaust tubing and a few bends (again, off eBay) Oh yea, you'll need a few quid, you'd be surprised how cheap it's possible to do it though!