nolan

That sounds a tad rude :shocked!: However sound advice :lol:

Photo 3..........

Photo 2........

Update.......... I bought a new Momo Boss (Part Number 12120118014) which comes complete with the slip ring 8) Therefore the Momo 8014 is the Boss to get :D For reference please attached photos:

The horn works by making the steering column (ground) in contact with the +12v supply (via the copper spring strip fitted on the steering column). I have looked up the standard vr6 steering wheel in ETKA (Please see attached .pdf file) Item 2 (Part Number 1H0 419 660) is a return ring (indicator cancel) with slip ring (for +12v to horn). Do you have to remove this part from the vw steering wheel and fit within the momo boss :oops: If I order a brand new momo boss (8014) does it come complete with the slip ring and indicator cancel :?: Any advice gratefully received 8)

I forgot to add the photo of the momo runner with boss (as supplied) fitted. As can be seen no copper slip ring assembly :(

Hi, Can anyone please confirm that a Momo Boss (8014) comes complete with slip ring assembly to enable the horn to work correctly :help: For example please find photo of a boss (unknown make, image from ebay) with a slip ring assembly to make contact with the horn (+12v) copper swiper as fitted on the steering column: I have recently purchased a second-hand Momo Runner Steering Wheel 8) which came complete with boss supposedly for a Corrado VR6 :? Although the spline is ok there is no way to connect the horn up correctly :roll: Is this a common problem :?: Many Thanks Nolan

Neil i had the same problem on my 94 vr6 last year. It was a dodgy relay (109 - ECU). To start the car I had to pull out 109 and plug it back in. The car would start but if you flicked the top of the relay the engine would cut out (coil breaking down hence lack of pull to hold the contact) Replaced relay 109 (part £10 from stealers) and no problems to date.

The Shield Starter Kit was delivered last week (thanks John) :D The kit certainly looks the part........just have to find the time to use it :roll: Flash Red is a pig of a colour to keep red - therefore will have to thoroughly follow the swissol handbook and spend time to do each panel in turn to get the best result. Swissol recommend that a 'paint rubber' is used before the cleaner fluid and finally the wax. I have already got a Meguiars Clay Bar which I assume is the same as a ‘paint rubber’.

Thanks for the advice :D I have ordered a Shield Starter Kit from John. Look forward to seeing the results of using a top quality wax 8) Will post photos of the result. Cheers

Kev, do you use Shield wax with or without PTFE?

ok will send john wintle a pm. cheers

Hi all, my flash red corrado is due for a good wax before winter :roll: I have used Meguiars Gold Class Wax before with good results however after searching the forum it would appear that Swissol wax is the daddy 8) Swissol offer an impressive range of waxes with impressive prices to match :shock: I have shortlisted the following waxes - which one should i go for :?: WCH10118 Zuffenhausen premium wax for modern German cars 200 ml. The recommended choice for all German cars such as Porsche, BMW, Mercedes and Audi produced since 1980, optimised for their two-component coatings. Contains 40% ultrapure Brazilian grade one carnauba wax for a deep, long lasting shine (typically up to 3 months between applications) to protect and nourish your paint. Use after a Cleaner Fluid wax pre-treatment. WGB10156 Saphir -premium wax for all paint colours 200 ml. Increased protection for all paint finishes, 40% Carnauba giving a deep long lasting shine - apply every 2-3 months unless you're a keen polisher and will do around 25 standard size cars, so cost per application is about £3. If you have several cars with different paint systems, this is the one for you. Saphir contains a much higher concentration of ultrapure Brazilian grade one carnauba wax (over 40% by volume), and is also an excellent choice for modern water based paints. Use after Cleaner Fluid wax pre-treatment. Any experience/advice about using these waxes would be appreciated. Cheers

Kev, This is something you can check yourself......what i meant by 'pulse generator' is basically quickly applying 12V to the solenoid by hand - thats what Vince did :lol: although Vince could do with a 'real digital electronic pulse generator' :wink:

My VR6 did exactly this :mad: and after spending a lot of time and money trying the basics i gave in and went to Stealth Racing to diagnose the problem on the rolling road whilst connected to VAG-COM. 8) It turned out to be a defective ISV - it would occasionally stick in the 'closed' position causing the engine to be starved of air and therefore cause the engine to cut out. Vince connected the ISV up to a pulse generator on ‘the bench’ and pulsed 12V through it until occasionally you could actually see the valve stick close and miss a 'couple of 12V pulses' (which is enough for the engine to stall under certain conditions) I would try a new ISV although they cost about £120 :shock: it may be cheaper than losing your NCB :oops: