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EssexG60

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Posts posted by EssexG60


  1. 3 hours ago, fendervg said:

    - passenger side parcel shelf off

    - fan unit is visible at the far left end of the ducting to the heater matrix

    - unplug power loom to fan unit

    - remove casing by twisting and remove fan unit

    - insert new fan unit etc.

    It's been a while since I've done it, but it should be reasonably easy tbh.

    Perfect!!

    Parcel shelf is just 6 bolts I've heard.
    Will the side panel in the footwell need to be removed to access any bolts for the shelf?

     


  2. 9 hours ago, Stone0311 said:

    Hi,
    Mine was done by OCD, good service and knowledgeable; not run it yet so yet to verify the work done

    Thanks, will have a hunt for OCD locations. Let me know how everything is running once you can. 😀


  3. Evening all,

     

    Any general recommendations on places that can complete supercharger rebuilds apart from JabbaSport?

     

    Original supercharger seems to have been installed by JabbaSport in my G60 and then looking at the paperwork was serviced a number of years ago by G werks.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


  4. 14 hours ago, ger040 said:

    Hope it helps

    I have a G60 myself and the VAG tech that set my car up was a bit hesitant to undertake the work as it had been something like 15 years from he last worked on them but once he seen the car he started to remember on its set up and quickly had it running a lot better

    The booklet is real old school when vw sent hard paper copies to all dealerships 

    Yes i have the full booklet an ebay purchase long time ago.

    Hope you get the car running and if you need any thing from the booklet just ask

    Gerard

    Thank you Gerard, your help is much appreciated.
    Will drop you a message if need be, have a great weekend.

     


  5. All,

    By chance does anyone have any details from Autodata or equivalent showing the G60 Digifant ECU connector pin-out?
    Basically a breakdown of which pins go to which sensors indicating which values should be seen for the sensor in question.
    More importantly it can also show the direction of travel for the signal i.e. ECU to sensor or Sensor to ECU. I have an example of a print out for a Polo G40 from a different forum but was not sure I was allowed to share the screenshots.

     


  6. 3 hours ago, Crasher said:

    The last one I had this on I could not get a used or new ECU, I sent it to BBA Reman and they sent it somewhere else and it came back fixed which is a rare thing with BBA... You can still get the EG and H suffix ECU's from VW Classic https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_uk/search?q=037906023h

    Thanks for the details.
    I have managed to source an ECU which should arrive by the weekend.
    No promise that the ECU itself will be "perfect" as it is used but definitely worth a shot at this stage.

    Failing that I may require a trip to see the gents at Corrado Graveyard.

     

    Fun and games 🙂

     


  7. 58 minutes ago, Crasher said:

    ECU failure is extremely rare BUT when I was working on a lot of PG engines I did experience a number of ECU failures where the internal ignition amplifier failed.

    Car has been sitting for years but that doesnt explain how it could have failed after all this time...
    I can only but try 🙂

    Does the G60 have an ignition amplifier?

     


  8. If this was mine it would be too tempting to jerry rig a fused 12v+ to pin 3 on the hall sensor - this would be at MY risk.
     
    Back in the day when G60 engine conversions were popular I'm sure G60 engines could be fitted to 88 onwards 8V PB engined MK2 Golfs (NOT earlier K-jet) cars using the base cars loom and adding a few wires to the ecu plug? My logic therefore would be an 8V ECU from a late MK2 Golf would start a G60 and allow it to idle?
     
    This would be at MY OWN risk, I'm only mumbling this so you can do your own research before taking a leap of faith.
     
    If in doubt ignore my ramblings

    Thanks for the input Dox.
    Ideal situation would be me testing a working ecu which I can get my hands on lol.

    I may have to get my current tested or find a used one which I can test before purchase

    Power to the hall sensor isn’t the old pin not getting power, there are yet other pins also.

    Any spare G60 ecus going around ?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. 5 minutes ago, Dox said:

    So you’re missing 12v+ at pin 8 on the ecu and it’s corresponding pin 3 on the hall sensor?

    Correct, I can double check again but I only got voltage on the below pins on the ECU when tested the other day.

    pin 1 (Starter power)
    pin 3 (Fuel Pump Relay)
    pin 12 (Injector Power)
    pin 14 (Power from Control Unit Relay)
    pin 22 (Idle stabilizer valve)
    pin 25 (To Ignition Coil)

     

    Was just checking Bentley and on testing I barely got over 11 mv ... which currently points to ECU.
    Continuity checks ok on pins 1 and 2 of harness also.

     image.png


  10. 2 hours ago, Dox said:

    Ign sw will power up the ECU via the relay and you have power?

    I have 12v power at the below ECU pins:

    Check pin 1 on ECU for 12v at ignition - Yes (Starter power)
    Check pin 3 on ECU for 12v at ignition - Yes (Fuel Pump Relay)
    Check pin 12 on ECU for 12v at ignition - Yes (Injector Power)
    Check pin 14 on ECU for 12v - Yes (Power from Control Unit Relay)
    Check pin 22 on ECU for 12v at ignition - Yes (Idle stabilizer valve)
    Check pin 25 on ECU for 12v -
     Yes (To Ignition Coil)



    Based on the below, my hunch is power in from the ign sw to the ECU is via pin 1:

    image.png


    image.png

    I hope I'm on the right track!!

     


  11. Just a thought, does the Ignition Switch also play a part in the issues I have faced so far?
    That has not been replaced.

    Accessories do turn on at ignition aswell as the warning lights but I assume that is power directly from the battery.
    Does the ignition switch also send a signal to the ECU for it to fire up the Coil?


     


  12. 10 hours ago, MJA said:

    Extensive checking! What about the rotor arm on the distributor itself? On my mk2 16v I did similar checks with voltage etc but found the rotor arm was a touch loose so when it span it didn't hit the contacts in the cap.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
     

    Hey Matt, Dizzy is spinning but that's about it in terms of checking as there is no spark I need to be sure the Ignition coil is generating that and therefore being present at the end of the King HT lead.

    10 hours ago, Dox said:

    Any old alarms / immobilisers fitted?

     Hi Dox,

    Yes there is an aftermarket Toad immobiliser.
    Have tested with it enabled and there is no tickover, once disabled the car does crank so I think we are ok on that front 🙂

    In addition to yesterday I swapped over the HT leads which was something I was going to do anyway.
    Also managed to source a new Ignition Coil for testing but still the same issue.

    My worry is that the Hall sensor not getting power has something todo with this whole palava!!
    Looking at the wiring diagrams, the hall sensor obtains power from the ECU at pin 8 but I am seeing nothing, also checked the ground which seems ok.

    I have also looked at the ECU, no obvious defects I can see but I am not pro.

    Any ideas welcomed?


  13. Ok so the story so far……………….

    New Battery (Bosch S5)
    New Fuel Pump including sender unit
    Siphoned out all old fuel
    Clean up of fuel tank
    New fuel (20 litres)
    New Spark plugs (Bosch Super Plus) + fogging oil applied to all cylinders
     

    Fuel Pump relay connector:
    Check pin 30 - Constant 12v present
    Check pin 87 - Signal working towards Fuel Pump when bridged via 30
    Check pin 86 - 12v present upon ignition
    Check pin 85 - "- 0v" reading present upon cranking, which I understand is correct?

    Fuel Pump Relay
    New relay installed
    Proceeded to turn the car but still no explicit/loud sounds of the Fuel pump priming however fuel is being carried upon cranking of the engine, tested via checking fuel line to injectors.

    Distributor/Spark Plugs
    Is spark present at spark plugs - No
    Is spark present on King lead from Ignition coil - No

    Ignition Coil
    Removed Ignition coil and correct ohms present when testing with multi meter.
    Primary coil 0.6 Ohms (must be 0.5 to 0.7 Ohms according to Bentley) - Correct
    Secondary coil 3600 Ohms (must be 3000 to 4000 Ohms according to Bentley) - Correct
    Check continuity towards Ignition coil (Green wire) from ECU (Pin 25) - Yes
    Check voltage to Ignition coil, should be 12v - Yes

    From this I gather the Ignition coil is "functioning".

    Hall Sensor Harness
    Check continuity towards Hall sensor harness (Red/Black) from ECU (Pin 😎 - Yes
    Check continuity towards Hall sensor harness (Green/White) from ECU (Pin 18)- Yes
    Check voltage to Hall sender harness upon ignition, should be 12v - No
    Pin 1 = Ground
    Pin 2 = Should be under 12v and fluctuate towards 0 when cranking
    Pin 3 = 12v - No

    ECU relay connector:
    Check pin 30 for 12v - Yes
    Check pin 86 for 12v at Ignition - Yes
    Check pin 87 for Voltage? Yes on ignition

    ECU Relay:
    Connect pin 85 to negative - Yes
    Connect pin 86 to positive - Yes
    Does it click, is coil energizing? - Yes

    If Yes,
    Connect 85 to negative
    Connect 86 to positive
    Check continuity over 30 and 87 with Multi meter - Working
     

    ECU
    Check pin 1 on ECU for 12v at ignition - Yes (Starter power)
    Check pin 3 on ECU for 12v at ignition - Yes (Fuel Pump Relay)
    Check pin 12 on ECU for 12v at ignition - Yes (Injector Power)
    Check pin 14 on ECU for 12v - Yes (Power from Control Unit Relay)
    Check pin 22 on ECU for 12v at ignition - Yes (Idle stabilizer valve)
    Check pin 25 on ECU for 12v - Yes (To Ignition Coil)

     

    Fuel Pump Relay: New relay installed, Continuity present, Voltage present. Pump still not priming
    Ignition Coil: Continuity present, Voltage present.
    Hall sender harness: Continuity present, no Voltage present - should this be coming from the ECU?
    ECU relay: Working as far as I can see but will change for a new one as it was already on order and in the post.
    ECU: All checked pins receive inbound voltage, however I have no further points of reference to check whether the ECU is distributing the signal to the various components.

    In addition still no Tachometer readings along with fuel on dash.

    Does all this point to a faulty ECU? 😐
    Any suggestions or corrections welcomed

    Kr

    Dee


  14. 7 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

    It s one hell of a ride matey, welcome aboard. 

    Thanks Shaun, my first ever dip into the VW world but hey this is what's it about...learning as you try and fix in my case 😉


  15. 8 hours ago, MJA said:

    Welcome and feel free to ask Qs lots of old hands on the forum and there are some how to guides in the tech section (you have to pay annual membership fee - £15 to access though)  

    Thanks Matt, any feedback will be much appreciated.
    Just in the middle of writing up the bits that myself and my cousin have completed .... Not looking good ..yet 😁


  16. Evening all…

    Completely new to the VW scene however I finally managed to pick up a long outstanding 92 plate G60 a few weeks ago.
    It has not seen the light of day for around 12 years at least so this is going to be a fun ride.

    Lots of history around the car  so it may well be one that someone may have spotted it a number of years ago in the edition38 scene.

    The list of work has begun but have already hit a few bumps along the road so I am sure I will be frequently posting my woes and questions… apologies in advanced 😀

    Regards 

    Dee

     

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