parody
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canterbury, kent
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cars, bikes, anything with an engine
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computer analyst
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hi kev you seem to be a knowledgable man! Im getting the same smoke problems with my 16v, although its only been doing it since i used a different oil. I used the best mobil 1 fully synthetic stuff, then on oil change decided it was far to expensive and didnt really do much, so changed to a cheaper fully synthetic. On reading parts of the forum it seems C's prefer non synthetic? could it be the different oil? its 10w 40. Also i unfortunately had a cambelt snap on me about 4000m ago, so i had the engine rebuilt then at a VW specialist, could this be linked? I used some wynns 'stop smoke' which did the job for a couple of days but now its come back! I really dont wanna pay for another head rebuild. Think i might just sell it to a gullable person it seems to be falling apart. The cam belt wasnt my fault either! it has Full SH all VAG approved, i tried to get it done on warranty by VW but they said it wasnt the cam belt that snapped it was the tensioner that siezed up, so the charged me £68 for looking and sent me on my way! That was 4 days after buying the car! thanks aaron
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no problem. I also had a squeaking\knocking on takeoff that turned out to be the front mount. Ive got a couple of new problems now, starting to be smokey and im getting a healthy (not) grinding noise when the starter motor kicks in. Great! love my C but i though VW's were supposed to be reliable! Happy C'ing!!
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hi there matey! i had the misfortune of crashing my C earlier this year (they good at cornering, but not quite that good. span 540degrees jumped 5ft in the air when hit a kerb and snapped of both nearside wheels, broke both rear engine mount brackets) I fixed it all my self over period of 6 saturdays, and now shes as good as new. Get some axle stands and prop the front end up. Use a trolley jack and block of wood to support the weight of the engine under the sump. As you look under the bonnet face on, you have a rear left mount, the rear right engine mount and the front engine mount. The rear left mount has 3 (if i remember correctly) srews in the top holding it to the engine mount bracket. You will need a long rachet extension to reach these and will need to remove the air intake hosing and throttle assembly that is bolted to the inlet manifold (its easier to go from the top of the engine). when you remove this you will see the engine mount bracket coming off the engine, arching around to the top of the mount. Underneath the car it also has 2 bolts holding it to the subframe at a 45 degree angle. remove these also and there you have an old engine mount to sell on ebay! new one goes in as reverse process. It may be fiddly removing it (i had the subframe off to which made it more open from the bottom). The front mount is straight forward, 1 bolt from the bottom and one horizontal bolt attaching it to a metal bracket at the top. remove and replace, being sure the engine is supported. Again, can be fiddly lining all the bolts back up. The back right gearbox engine mount is a bit vague in my memory. you can see it directly under the bonnet. It has a bracket to the gearbox and an anti twist bar attached to it via 1 bolt at the top. Think i had two bolts holding it on at the bottom. Dont tighten any one mount fully until all are in place, then tighten them all up. This is so the engine can move about a bit while you tring to line all the bolts up again. You might finding using the supplied VW spare wheel jack is good for levering the engine aboout, pushing it against the chassis. Have a good look at everything before you start and approach it logically. Dont go to mad when you can get the bolts to re-align straight away (i did). It took me the best part of a winters day to do this. Good Luck hope this helps aaron
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Hi! I also have a 1.816v and have been searching about for an induction kit but according to various resources you cant use them on the 1.8 due to the set of the air meter and various other technical gubbins on the air intake system. Hence everyone just cuts a big hole in the airbox, the sensors dont know any different then! To prove this i had the tinyest of splits in the rubber tubing going into the inlet manifold, and it made the C run well rough and stall when cold. At first I thought it was the cold start valve and nearly spent a load on replacing it! Seems like the 1.8C has a sensitive air intake system! having said all that let me know if you do find an induction kit, and more importantly if it fits and works! aaron
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kev that sounds like a very likely explanation as like i said the sunroof starts to go to slide (i.e. it falls down to go under the roof) but stops dead after its slid about 3mm. I take it thats a good day long job, roof lining out etc? not looking forward to doing that ive heard even trained mechanics say they hate sunroofs! cheers aaron
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Ha Ha! crazy i actually remember passing you! small world a! wish i had the air con of the vr6 at the moment in this heat. happy driving! aaron p.s. see you around!
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Hi! wow thanks for all that wasnt expecting replies so fast. The motor doesnt sound like its dieing as it tilts it perfectly well, unless it gets jammed when it tries to slide? i assume it works on two different 'gears'? And yes the tilt comes back down fine! To AndyVR6, I have a pearl aqua blue 1991 1.8 16v corrado with 17in momo GT2 alloys and lowered 40mm, ive seen a few corrados about canterbury there always seems to be one parked in the parcel force depo, and ive seen an ugly red one (i dont like red) driving about. I usually flash or wave if i see a fellow driver!! :D
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Hi all my sunroof will tilt but will not slide. It goes to but stops pretty much straight away. Ive heard something about some zinc die casting that 'go' and need replacing. Has anyone else had this problem, and fixed it? HELP!! :cry: Thanks!!