wormy

If you have aftermarket rear lights, they can leak. I put mine under the spring and saw where it was leaking, then I put some silicone-like glue there.. Fixed it for me.

23 (24 in a few weeks), had it for 5 years. Now it's a undergoing a haldex-conversion.. :)

No photos available at the moment, sorry.. But I'll try to answer. I think I'd go for a 16V distributor that fits in the cylinder head - and block of the G60 one that fits in the block. IIRC (I'm not 100% sure!) you also need a 16V intermediate shaft and 16v oil pump. For the pulleys - the 16V timing pulleys are wider, so you need spacers - or replace the pulleys/pumps with 16v units. BBM sold the spacers separately before, but I can't find them on their site anymore. By the time you are done, I think it'd be cheaper and easier to try to source a complete 1.8L KR engine (or PL, but they have lazy camshafts), and just replace the pistons/rods with S2 units - instead of trying to "modify" the PG block to fit the 16V head? Unless you have special reasons for using the PG though.. :-) From my experience - most PG blocks have bores that are totally out of specc anyway - I've even had piston slap in one engine! They'd need a re-bore, so the S2 pistons won't fit.. :-\

The PG pistons have the combustion chamber in the pistons (dome - refered to as "depth" in your data?). The 16V and S2 has it in the heads, so there's less dome (depth?) S2 rods/pistons + engine block with the right bore (stock PG f.ex.) and KR/PL/ABF head is iirc a very successful combo.

The bearing caps are unique to the head, as they are line bored/honed after being installed.. :(

As owen said, I'd take compression test on it.. Leaky injectors could also do this, so might be worth a check also.. Can't see how the ECU does this..?

It's screwed in, should be able to undo it fairly easily if needed. Not sure if it's available or not.. :\

Yeah, it is a cooling pipe. The reason for cooling it, is that the power steering fluid is compressed quite a bit by the pump - up to 80-100 bar or so(?) - and that creates a bit of heat. :)

Yeah, done them about 1-2 years ago.. I remember struggeling a bit, but can't really remember what I did.. Think I installed the thin dust-seals into the calipers first, then lubed up the pistons so they can somehow be squished past.. It's a tight fit! The big one goes into the groove in the pistons iirc? Do you have some pictures to refresh my memory? I kinda only have this.. :-(

Yeah, that.. Most pictures of destroyed Rota's I've seen are from drift-cars.. Probably after going sideways into a curb or something.. :)

Yup, that's what I did on my first engine also.. It's the head that keeps it tight, the threads themselves should unscrew once the head is off.. :-)

Crank pulley: Use a socket on the big bolt in the middle to hold it tight, while undoing the 6mm allen-bolts.. Waterpump pulley: Hold it tight using f.ex. the old belt, a big plier (oil filter plier?), or poke a screwdriver through the pulley (can't remember if it works on this one..)

Check if the bush is spinning also.. I've had that on mine.. The bolt had binded to the bush :-(

Go for a stock G60 one... As long as it's metal it should be fine.

Yeah, same. Seems fine to me - nothing very obvious wrong atleast :)