Diamond Hell

The infamous Golf3 TDI will be being flogged in the new year - I have too many vehicles at the moment!! :nono:

How it's spent most of the last three years:

:confused:

And then when I finally had some time:

Eventually to:

As it turned out it was (weirdly) the speedo in the cluster that was shot, so we have a replacement cluster in the dash now - all is gravy there.

The ABF is loverly in the Corrado. They are such a storming motor when they're right.

It currently has a cat out of the Cordoba the ABF came out of on the back of it, which looks to be a later and (hopefully) better design than the original. Being the same floorpan it fits right up, too which is nice.

The biggest issue with it was the exhaust manifold, as when I released the downpipe it sheared two of the downpipe bolts. :bonk:

Off to a mate's workshop (the one in the first post actually!) who has a proper pillar drill for some of this action:

As they didn't respond to being heated up, or having nuts welded on them.

The car also now has a 6kg flywheel on the motor (I was getting one done and had two sitting around, so got them both done, so it's keen to rev, which is nice. Original flywheel is around 10kg, so it's a significant difference.

Thanks to the donor Cordoba the car is now running on 280mm front brakes. When it came to me the ABS had been 'disabled' - the warning light had been disconnected!. As that's now an MOT fail I've worked through the system and found a poxy connector in the back and a blown front sensor. Now those have been sorted/replaced it all works right, which I'm delighted about.

One of the handbrake cables had seized, resulting in too much yanking on the handbrake to pull it on. This had in turn torn the front securing bolt out of the tunnel, so that had a dose of cleaning up and being welded back in, along with a pair of new handbrake cables going on. The original OS one was completely seized in the outer.

I have a set of 16" multispoke rims from the Cordoba which I might get blasted and coated in white and fit to replace the nasties on there at the moment. It needs tyres anyway, so it's the right thing to do at the right time.

Now, how the hell do people get their CE2 fuseboards back up and fixed properly? The space is TINY!

Once through the MOT it will get stitch-welded control arms and TT bushes to the rear of them, along with full alignment on the front with -1.5 camber to make it properly pointy.

And yes, it will be remaining at that ride height - I need suspension travel to ensure I can make steady progress on my local roads.

Well, that's only been three years off the road for the Corrado. :suprised:

After various issues and a change of jobs I didn't need it, so I mothballed it.

FINALLY got round to sorting it out in the past couple of months. It now just needs three brake pipes replacing and a steering gaiter and it will be back on the road with another, fitter ABF under the bonnet.

MOT station last Saturday, in the process of failing:

Should be re-commissioned by Christmas and then may well fall into daily use, as I'd forgotten how nice it is to drive a petrol powered car. WHOOPS!

Lambda signal's normally disregarded at high revs/wide-open throttle, so that argument doesn't work. It's there to manage the mixture at idle and also at part-throttle cruising.

Get a lambda back in there - it'll make it run smoother and use less fuel.

Thankfully torrents work faster.

Oh great. Just what I need.

*sigh*

Anyone got a chocolate teapot?

Is the 'engine carrier' the main subframe under the motor, to which the rack bolts? Do you still have it?

I asked this question nearly exactly two years ago! Can anyone help? I mothballed the Corrado for a while as I couldn't get this information. I have a diagram from A2resource.com but it is from USA market cars and I've already spotted a difference in the F-plug pins. It's so frustrating not knowing how this should be wired in.

Can anyone help?

---------- Post added at 8:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:46 PM ----------

Oh - it's an N-plate 16V originally, with an ABF (2.0 16V) going in it now.

Hi, does anyone have a fusebox pinout map please?

I can't get my speedo working since I installed my ABF and I'm not completely happy about how the engine's running, so I need to compare Golf3 CE2 pinouts with Corrado CE2 pinouts.

Standardised electrical system? No chance!

Annoyingly it turns out the CE2 connectors aren't standardised.

No working speedo for me, yet.

ABF is running OK, but there's some hesitation and other slightly odd symptons. We've narrowed it down to either a problem with the fuel pressure, or the ABF management can't handle the ported throttlebody.

If anyone's had any experience with problems with ported bodies I'd be interested to hear their experiences.

Still, at least I got a couple of cool images on Saturday evening:

9 images composited together:

Oh and I need a new passenger-side headlight lens, after some pheasant decided to inspect the front of my car at about 60mph on Saturday.

H'mmmm, while I appreciate it's 'supposed to be there' I was wondering whether there were any routing guidelines for the wires.

Does anyone have a link to any of the tools to release the connectors?

IS there any sort of a knack involved in getting the fusebox re-located?

It seems very tight in there.

Are the dip beams on individual connectors?

Bloody electrics - what a pain.

Got any plans on how you're going to get through the MOT, or is your C early enough to be pre-cat?

1. We took a relay out and can't remember where the damned thing goes and this is what the fusebox looks like:

Motor seems a bit flat at the moment, so I'm wondering whether it's something like the lambda relay.

Of course, it might be some KE-jet black magic thing I don't need any more.

The relay out either has 72 or 73 on it, but it's outside and I'm inside and it's f*cking cold out there right now! I'll get the part number tomorrow.

2. Electronic speedo drive

The one damned plug we didn't notice was missing from the engine loom was the speedo drive. After all, it's the same fusebox and we're using the same plugs so the same electrical connections must be in there, right? WRONG. It's not in the Golf3 loom, but it is still in the flinking Corrado loom.....

Has anyone else come across this issue? Can anyone else recommend the right tool to remove the pins from the plugs in the Corrado loom so I can splice in the speedo, please?

Cheers.

I was going off the advice that the guy who I bought them off told me.

There's your screw-up, right there.

There's not really any safe and correct way of fitting harnesses without a cage.

Plus those are 2" straps, which are renowned as collarbone snappers.

Plus they're only four-point, so there's nothing to stop you submarining down in an impact - further spinal damage.

Plus, with the mounting point offset they're try and pull the seats across under duress, too.

Sorry, but poorly fitted harnesses are a bugbear of mine. People fit them as if they're some sort of safety improvement, when normally they're detrimental to passenger safety.

Let's not get started on half and 'show' cages.....

Whilst it goes against the grain of the praise in this thread, I've got to say your top harness mounts suck balls. You would be safer with three point belts. Harnesses need a proper mounting bar, welded into something like a proper rollcage.

Using the rear seatbelt top mounts provides points which haven't been designed to strain in the direction you're loading them in an accident, so they might well tear out, which could do serious damage to your back as your unrestrained torso flops violently forward on to that rather nice wheel.

Sorry, just an observation. The rest looks cool.

Saw a rad on a Toledo TDI with aircon in a scrappy at the weekend. The fixings are the same and the rad looks to be the same height. I smell a bleed-hose delete WIN coming on.

From an Albambra or various cooking SEAT 2.0 and 1.6 motors.

Oh or a Passat.

Just don't insult it by nailing 1960s technology to it.

I'm just finishing up the ABF install and one of the things that's been bugging me is the bleed hose on the end of the rad.

As the radiators get older the plastic gets brittle and more likely to snap.

Obviously the newer VAG motors bleed into the moulded top hose.

Thing is, is there a radiator available to replace the standard rads that deletes the bleed hose, so the later top hose can be used with the integral bleed hose?

I see part number 535121251C listed, which is used for 'warm climates' etc. Anyone know if this is either still available, or whether it has a bleed hose? It looks like the rad used on the Toledo 16V, which also has slimline twin fans, too.

I did search, but couldn't find anything on here about this....

What's the management on the motor?

Proper management should be able to handle advance/retard according to the grade of the fuel, using the lambda and knock sensing systems.

If you've not got something controlling the management properly you're going to be scratching around in the dark, mostly finding your arse crack.

Check the timing and pull it back a touch.

Alternatively, get rid of the rubbish mechanical management system which is causing the problem.

Between track days with the Golf, buying a new house and burying my uncle you'd have thought the C was being severely neglected.

And you'd be half right.

The night before I took the Golf to Brands we had torrential weather here on the IOW and driving home to hitch the trailer on the Passat I was driving through some floods when the C bogged down and simply wouldn't pick back up.

No problem, I thought - bit of water somewhere.

Cleaned everything through by the side of the road, still nothing - plenty of spark, plenty of fuel, but no goes. :confused4:

Never mind, it got dragged home and we went off to Brands and

Came back and it still wouldn't run any sense. Then it would run on cold start, but died as soon as it warmed up. Anyone got any suggestions?

DannyP and I figured there was only one truly effective cure for this malaise: ABF on Digifant 3.2.

Any other theories are welcome.

The C is currently in the workshop, nose in the air, engine, gearbox and brake master + servo out, with an ABF being prepped next to it - new cambelt, water pump and a Toledo/Golf3/Cordoba gearbox, which I think has a taller fifth.

The non-immobiliser loom and ECU I have are also being prepped - the loom has been re-wrapped in fresh loom tape. Hopefully won't be too long until it's back on the road, barking healthily, with a touch more harumphf under the bonnet.

Also check that the pump's not seizing, due to failing bearings especially if there's a bit of leakage around the pulley.

theres so many also the lower inlet is being internaly polished as will be the head sooo much to do

Now why would you do that then?

Who's flowing the head?

I know a guy who's good with 16V heads.....

Engine management - depends what you want? Whether you want a complete package solution, or to build and learn the engine management platform yourself.

Complete package - go see Dave Walker at Emerald

DIY and live and learn - Megasquirt.

still high losses even for 4wd

I realise that, but it's broadly similar for both Syncros and witha RR it's the consistency that really matters (to me), rather than the ultimate figures.

did you RR it before changing the standard manifold and downpipe?

Sadly not possible for either, as there is no standard manifold and downpipe for an ABF in a Syncro. I see where you're going with that and yes, it would have been useful, but we only have limited time and budget!

so why don't you make one for your corrado then? :)

I was hoping for something off the shelf! There's nothing whatsoever off the shelf for a 16V Golf2 Syncro with an ABF, so that wasn't an option.

I've got to counter this one.

 

right, well if I read the detail on your RR session right, your ABF is making less at the wheels than my standard 1.8 KR did.....

 

....me thinks the estimated transmission losses on that RR session are way over the top and the car is putting out nearer 140bhp at the crank.

methinks you've not considered that the car is 4WD, so has horrendous transmission losses :wink:

As a measure of consistency, here's a graph from the same rollers, with my G2 Syncro 2.0 8V crossflow on it:

The transmission losses are enough to make your nose bleed!

Reassuringly, on a track, despite these huge losses I'm still at least as fast as a comparable 8V GTI and when it rains it's :wave:

Apples with apples, not apples with apples that have had a big bite taken out of them. :wink: