potatonet

I bought a corrado because it was unique, the g60 was a temporary added bonus. When I bought the car it had previously destructed a g60 charger leaving a rather massive dent in the hood. My charger lasted about 3 years, I tried to have it rebuilt and they said there were small chips on the apex slots meaning the apex strips could jump out.

At that moment I went naturally aspirated for 9 months when I found an slk32 amg supercharger for sale across the country. Finding a decent g60 was nearly impossible during that time and I didn't mind custom mounting something. My car jumped in uniqueness at the point when I mounted it because I was the first person to do it with a c, then a Norwegian guy followed, then a 16v guy followed, blah blah blah.

Now I have switched to something that no one had ready access to, a boat supercharger with the same displacement but less weight, had a bbm it wasn't the same.

Looks like the cf piece I ordered from the uk....

eaton M90's and lysholms are common replacements here in the USA.

I've gone through a few lysholms and stuck with my larger one. =-)

1.65L/rev is pure bliss

It was a boost control mechanism. I used a pool valve, I now have a turbo wastegate in a similar position but I have another form of the same supercharger in the car now, the new one is black and looks awesomer :)

what is it you need done?

yes, thats the long way.

there are a few wires that need changing but it doesnt need to be that extensive

Im talking about the digital odometer version of the corrado.

I have the mechanically driven one and I want to switch to a corrado cluster without the scrolling odometer...

not digifiz!

that was them talking about it.

I also think they gauge pod is the same size

Anyone know where the old thread is???

if you want some help/ a version of solidworks 2009/ a part made/designed/whatever

let me know... I have full access to all of the above and have an extensive background in everything to do with engineering and modeling.

hell, my MS is in engineering!

let me know, I'd be glad to help. plus... IM FREE!

IIRC there was a thread about changing from analog corrado gauges to digital corrado gauges (digital odomter)

I know I would have to change the odometer to pick up on a reciever on the gear box but I cant recall what else needed to be changed...

does anyone remember what Im talking about???

I only ask because I got some digital gauges and I have analogs to switch from...

Story time,

I've been dealing with Digifant systems for 6 years and I hate it, finally I finished college with my MS and got a decent paying job.

the corrado suffered over those years... no more!

SO with my 2.0L and my wonderful 8V head (yes I know, its not optimum but a lot of work went into it and it gets the job done) and my new replacement 1.6L supercharger I believe its time for standalone if I want to be able to adjust my boost on the fly (between 14 and 21 psi, yes I understand a map change may be necessary, it beats swapping a chip in the ECU)

The car will primarily be a track car, I have a daily driver so no worries about that.

I recall a while back there were a few standalone systems being used, they were on the pricey side but they were very good systems.

I would prefer a system that allows me to use a 3.0 bar fpr with whatever sized injectors, have a 300 kpa map sensor in it, also I would prefer if it was distributor triggered, if it has auto-tuning then thats even better.

I can use a crank trigger if necessary, though I really dont want to remove my crankshaft from the motor.

something that lets me modify the fueling map with an Iphone would be cool (though I doubt it exists yet)

so Im up for reccomendations here, and I dont want to hear the same old "just use digifant", sorry I want something I can really mess around with, I hated using an FMU, no more band aid fixes!

anyone try one of these yet?

possibly a cheaper version of a vibraTechnic mount?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 1818wt_859

the charger is only .35 liters smaller than my motor

=-)

its great

its the timing belt rubbing on the inner timing belt cover (its a metal piece on the inside, it has a little attachment on it)

rip it off and you shouldnt hear it anymore. =-)

take a look at your timing belt, it should be worn on the inside portion of it

:grin:

most kits will have you drop the exhaust, if you cant do that then why install a short shift...

never bought one, would get one from tm tuning tho.

125 USD RSD-1245 is the part

yep same setup as mine,

works well. last dyno was 315 hp =-)

well if the problem is still there while you have it unplugged then leave it plugged in?

or get a wide band and have it send the signal from its analog port without a draw on it

I had the problem for about a day, put in my wideband and poof it was gone.

yes I had to tape my WOT switch shut

ok I figured out the WOT switch thing I think...

get a new oxygen sensor. or borrow someones or something because thats the problem

post on the VWvortex forums, talk to MRKrad he is the guy from sns here in the US, he knows digifant like the back of his hand.

dude.... still the same problem?

I say you have a short circuit somewhere. (probably at the fuel pump). Take a multimeter and measure the voltage to the fuel pump while it does this nonsense. (its free, just takes time)

how much was it to get the fenders flared where you are?

Im working on getting them flared right now and I think I may go up and out a little more.

Thanks =)

where in the US are you =-)