devnull

Awesome, thanks for the info, it just didn't look quite right so I wanted to make sure it was normal. And, since I've not installed coils before, I wanted to make sure I didn't have something bass-ackwards ;) Since it's already seated and back on the floor I'll order myself some new bushings and bearings and replace them when they come.

I've just gotten my front Koni coils installed tonight, and I have a bit of an issue that this post seems to have hit on, it seems like there's a gap between the upper strut cap / mount (the "concave plate"), I'm guessing that maybe the rubber bushings are buggered and I should replace them with new ones? It's a '93 with 90K on the clock, so I'm thinking it may just be time for new bushings -- but I'd like to know for sure.

Pulling the MAF plug causes it to practically die while idling. I guess I'll just have to wait till the mechanic is in on Monday and see if his code reader can't help me out. ;)

Yeah, I'm gonna see if the local VW parts place doesn't have the proper equipment. Also of note is that last week I had idle problems, cleaned out the ISV and then took it for a drive. The idle problemd were fixed, but when it got to around 2500-3000, it would buck and freak out until I let off the throttle (I switched gears each time it happened). I reset the ECU and then it seemed to go away (though I didn't have the check engine light at that time). Shortly after that the distributor rotor exploded... sigh :) Is the cam sensor located on the distributor? Also, does anyone know if when the check engine light comes on if the ECU shifts into "stupid mode" so you can get to a mechanic / fix it? It's a '92 VR6 (so, OBD-I?)...

Hey everyone, I have a small problem. My check engine light is always on when I'm driving, and I wonder if it's not the MAF sensor. Here are the symptoms: * When I reset the ECU, (which I tried to see if I could get the light to go away), the engine hunts for a solid idle and it's really bouncing up and down (from like 500rpm to 1300rpm) * Once it finds the appropriate mixture (?), it stabilizes and doesn't hunt on startup at all unless I reset the ECU again. * I've also noticed that the exhaust smells quite strongly like gas, so I think it's running rich. * In addition, when I'm the throttle is more closed than open (really scientific, huh?), the car feels like it's "loping" (I can't think of any other way to explain it, it's not like it's dying, but it's a bit rough) If anyone has any other suggestions of things to check, please feel free to chime in, it won't hurt my diagnostic ego ;)

I just finished rebuilding my VR6 from the ground up -- I took it to the machine shop for cleanup, had it balanced, bought all new seals, etc. etc. However, since I've gotten it all going, it gives off a little bit of smoke from the rear passenger side of the motor. Is this normal? It doesn't seem to be overheating (though I only drove it around a few blocks to test it out), and I don't have any parts that I forgot about... I am guessing that it will just do that for a little bit as everything settles and fills in gaps, etc. But, I thought maybe someone here would have some suggestions. Thanks!

Thanks for all the extra info, I truly appreciate it. :D My other question still stands though, are they all the same or is each one specific to that section of the crank in terms of shape, weight, size, etc?

Does anyone know if the crank bearings are all the same or if they're all different? I have them all lined up according to where they came from, but they're all a bit worn and I am going to replace them. I just wanted to know if there's anything I need to look out for when replacing them. Thanks! :D

I already tried it ;) 12 maybe? Snapon doesn't carry anything but 10 and 12mm...

I have a 10mm like the ones on the flywheel and it's just shy of fitting, but I'm not sure if that means it's 11 or 12 ;)

Does anyone know what size 12 point driver is needed for removing head bolts on a VR6? It looks like 11mm but I don't care much for purchasing more than one Snap-On tool at a time, otherwise my wallet gets pretty light. :) Thanks!

I checked their website and they don't seem to have much in the way of radiator fans listed. I did choose the US site, though, so perhaps that alters their selection... I was also curious if there are any specific manufacturers people have seen / fitted themselves into a VR. Thanks for the reference to DT :) :?:

Does anyone know of any low-profile radiator fans that can be used in place of the oversized fan in a VR6? Mine's got some chips and starting to make some noise so I'll probably replace it during my overhaul here. If I could, I'd like to get one that's a bit smaller in terms of depth if there is one that's known to fit... Thanks!

Will do, it doesn't rattle at all to the best of my knowledge, but I'll take a look at the tensioner. Chances are it may have been done around 100K by the previous owner, I haven't looked through the paperwork I have yet. I bought a gasket set, the dealer wanted $300 :shock: but my local VW parts house got it for $150, much easier to swallow. UnfortunatelyI have to order the head bolts from the dealer *sigh* ... Thanks again for the info.

It's got 130K miles on it (if that tells you anything), and I'm not certain how to go about testing the state of the chains or the tensioners (am I correct in assuming that it's the timing chain tensioners that you're referring to?). Since I just replaced the clutch, I'd like to avoid removing the transmission -- it was enough of a headache 5 months ago ;) (If you know of a good way to test or signs which indicate they need some attention and it seems like they need replacing then I'd do it in spite of the hassle) I'll look into getting a complete head set as well as the bolts, I didn't know you could get a set. Thanks for the advice!