Oakley 0 Posted October 25, 2004 Hi again all Fitting a new lamder tomorrow to hopefully resolve fuel consumption problems. Is there anything I need to know or is it just a straight forward swop? Thanks in advance Oakley Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dazzyvr6 0 Posted October 25, 2004 1.make sure the exhaust is cold :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm 0 Posted October 25, 2004 2. Learn to spell it. :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GIXXERUK 0 Posted October 25, 2004 lambda its a welsh thing :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 25, 2004 Aye, don't put your fingers on the probe tip and wear rubber gloves when fitting it. They're quite sensitive. It is straight forward but make sure you don't twist the wires round on themselves as you screw it in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oakley 0 Posted October 25, 2004 Sounds simple enough. Thanks all can lock thread whenever ready, thanks. Oakley Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oakley 0 Posted October 25, 2004 in fact, I am changing the brake pads all round as well, I assume they are no different to any other car right? I hope so! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted October 25, 2004 brakes are pretty much the same as every other car to change... 8) Watch out for the allen head bolts on the rear calipers though, they have a habbit of growing in and being an utter bitch to remove... :| Lambda wiring gets a bit brittle with age, so be careful with the car's wiring when changing it... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oakley 0 Posted October 25, 2004 Damn..............I gotta love this Forum, you guys know everything and responses are rapid. Thank again ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm 0 Posted October 25, 2004 Watch out for the allen head bolts on the rear calipers though, they have a habbit of growing in and being an utter b**** to remove... :| Plus Gas, great stuff. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dazzyvr6 0 Posted October 25, 2004 and order new bolts from the stealers BEFORE you do the job...my local stealers didnt have any in stock :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted October 25, 2004 Also the rear caliper pistons wind in so you WILL need a windback tool (Halfords) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dazzyvr6 0 Posted October 25, 2004 and hope the fcukers arnt seized like mine were :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oakley 0 Posted October 25, 2004 what on earth is a windback tool. I know from past experience to use a crowbar to push this big "spring affect" thing back into place. what does the windback tool look like and how much does it cost? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dazzyvr6 0 Posted October 25, 2004 the rear caliper pistons wind out as the pads wear,you will need to wind it back it,ive used a pair of pipe grips before now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dazzyvr6 0 Posted October 25, 2004 http://www.buildline.com/acatalog/Break_Tools.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted November 16, 2004 Don't use pipe grips, you'll gouge the surface of the piston and damage the rubber dust seal. The caliper will then be much more susceptible to seizing up The piston needs to be wound back down a thread, (conventional right-hand thread) into the caliper; there is a slot or a pair of holes in the face of the piston into which the pressure plate of the winding tool engages as it is turned. It is quite stiff to turn the winder unless you release the hydraulic pressure by undoing the bleed nipple and directing the fluid through a tube into a jar. You really need two pairs of hands, one to hold the caliper without straining the flexible hose and the other to turn the winder. The winder, made by Sykes Pickavant, is about £20 from Halfrauds; make sure you get the right pressure plate with projections to match your particular piston slot arrangement ; there are all sorts. There's a universal kit but it's a lot more expensive. Once the new pads are in place, offer up the caliper and nip it up using the old bolts. Check that the clearance between the backing plate of the pad and the piston is approx. 1 millimetre (obviously with the handbrake fully off!!!), and adjust if necessary. When you have at last reached correct adjustment, after about 5 goes and much swearing, bolt it all back to full tightness using the new bolts. Reconnect the handbrake cables and then stand on the brake pedal a few dozen times; all this procedure is to set the handbrake adjustment. There is a real possibility that you will find one or other or both calipers are seized up if they are the original cast iron items, so be prepared to get new ones. The demon tweak is to use Mk 3 Golf alloy calipers, and I believe you need to use matching flexible pipes with these (I'm at the ragged edge of my knowledge here and welcome any alteration to this information). It's amazing what a difference this all makes to the braking, especially the handbrake operation. Of course it's even better if you replace the discs at the same time, and the hub bearings, and the ABS rotors........... Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites