Schrick 260 cams worth getting or not?

[mrbeige 0]

I've been offered a pair of Schrick 260 cams secound hand (40000miles) out of a MKII Golf with a BR Motorsport engine. Are they going to be worth the money for the increase in power that i'm going to get? I would put them in with a ported/polished head.

 

What do you reckon? :D or :(

[corradophil 3]

I tried Schrick 268/276 cams in mine, and was very dissapointed, very lumpy idle, and when I replaced them with std exhaust/KR inlet cam the car felt so much quicker. So my vote is :(

How many miles has yours done? I replaced my injectors at 140,000 miles and it made a small but noticable improvement.

[mrbeige 0]

Oh right! :shock: just stick with the flowed head then and KR Inlet. Not done anything with the injectors yet.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The Schrick 260s aren't as wild as 268/276s and work nicely on the 2.0 valver.... the 268/276s are unsuitable for a road car imo.....

[corradophil 3]

Trouble is, the valver already produces its power at high revs, and the cams take this further. General opinion seems to indicate KE-Motronic is not ideal for high lift/duration cams too. At low revs the airflow meter flap becomes unstable which worsens the rough running normaly experienced.

I agree the 268/276s are too wild for normal road use, but even getting near 7000 RPM they showed no real improvement over Kr spec cams.

I've seen cams work very well with twin 45 Webers which have much more scope for being setting up correctly, but from my experience with the same engine as mrbeige, I wouldn't want to risk it.

Just my opinion after a whole load of messing around and getting nowhere, however if you do buy them I will be very interested to hear how it goes and hope your experience would be better then mine.

[mrbeige 0]

Just my opinion after a whole load of messing around and getting nowhere, however if you do buy them I will be very interested to hear how it goes and hope your experience would be better then mine.

Cheers Phil if I get them i'll let you know how I get on

 

Any idea what sort of BHP I could expect, and am I going to loose all that lovely torque that I've got?

[corradophil 3]

Hard to say what BHP, the best i've seen with 268/276 cams on a 2.0 16v running K-Jetronic was just over 200 BHP! This was someone on the Club Gti forum, sorry cannot remember who. Don't forget these are longer duration than what you are interested in.

 

Someone else with a similar spec engine in a Mk2 Golf had the same cams as me at the same time, he is GVK on the Club Gti forum, he gave up on his way before me, there was a huge thread about it, It's well worth searching the Club Gti forum on this topic.

 

Just remembered, the bloke I bought my cams from, tried 260 Schricks, 268/276 Schricks and KR cams back to back at Stealth, the KRs were best, he sold both sets of Schricks on here. With KR cams he was getting around 170 BHP. His name is Alan, and he is also on Club Gti.

 

You will probably lose some low-mid rev torque with the cams.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Someone else with a similar spec engine in a Mk2 Golf had the same cams as me at the same time, he is GVK on the Club Gti forum, he gave up on his way before me, there was a huge thread about it, It's well worth searching the Club Gti forum on this topic.

 

Yeah I know Gary. He was telling me the same thing you did, lots of power, bugger all torque and undrivable on the road. I think he got his up to 185-190 bhp with the Schrck assymetrics, but with the KR cams he's getting something like 165-170bhp but with 153 odd pounds of torque, so it's a far better car for the road.

[mrbeige 0]

Not getting them then! Like the torque to be fair!

[corradophil 3]

I think thats the right decision, maybe spend the money making sure its set up correctly, you could still put a gas flowed head on. With that it would be similar to my spec, therefore should have similar power. Its fast enough to not be worth changing the car for a VR6 in my opinion, although the sound of the VR is loveley. I also spent several hours modifying the manifolds on mine. I can't say what difference it made because I did the head at the same time..

[mrbeige 0]

Phil, What did you do to your manifolds and how did you do it? I'm guessing you are running 44mm inlet manifold?

[corradophil 3]

Yes, I'm still running the original 9A inlet manifold. I purchased a Carbide Bur tool, for the aluminium (Inlet and Head). I removed a fair bit of material from around the injectors on the inlet. Also I opened the manifolds and ports out to match the gaskets, plus at each joint I made sure there are no steps down in size i.e. where the inlet bolts to the head, the head is opened out around 0.5mm - 1mm larger diameter than the manifold.

 

The exhaust manifold has quite a restriction on no. 3 cylinder IIRC, this is because one of the bolts which holds it to the head is very close, I ground this restriction down as much as possible, in fact I went too far, and had to weld it up. I also opened the area adjacent to the restriction. I used a grinding stone for the exhaust.

 

All items were then finished with small flap wheels, starting corse and getting finer to give a good finish.

 

All tools were used on a flexi drive in an electric drill because I do not have a compressor or die grinder.