update

[SteveM16v 0]

Anyone who has read my previous threads will know that I've had a heap of trouble with my old C.

 

Well good news! I've just had the oil pump/sump/hall sender and cam belt done and she's running like a dream!

The hall sender was without doubt the cause of the ruff idol/cutting out so that's made the obvious difference. Also, hopefully now the new sump is in place, I won't be spending so much money on oil and polluting the environment as much.

 

The other good news is she sailed through the MOT. What's the catch...well, £410.00 for everything.

 

For the work done is that a fair price?

 

A very excited..

Steve :-P

[G60 Bob 0]

exuse my ignorance but what the hall sender?

[Henny 0]

bert, the hall sender is the bit in the distributor which replaces the "points"... It's the part which senses when the engine is at the correct place to fire the plugs... 8)

 

SteveM16v, That's not too bad a price to be honest... I'd guess you're looking towards £200 on parts and at least 3 hours labour to do that little lot... 8)

[SteveM16v 0]

cheers Henny - I thought it was ok especially as that price included the MOT

 

Steve

[aclwalker 3]

I replaced my hall sender a while back (VR6) and it cleared the majority of my hesitation problems (blue coolant sensor sorted the remaining uneveness).

 

If you have the distributor version (of the VR6 (early models), and presumably the other models) then I believe there's a hall sender inside the distributor. I replaced this on my old Golf years ago and it sorted its "all or nothing" running. I'm assuming that the distributor Corrados have distributors which are serviceable. Curiously my dad's Polo's distributer was not serviceable and when it needed a new hall sender we had to replace the whole distributor. There was some sort of rivet or something preventing disassembly if I remember correctly.

 

Anyway, with the coil pack version of the VR6 (not sure if any other Corrados have coil packs?) there's still a hall sender but it's a separate component attached onto the engine block near the coilpack. This cost about £35 IIRC and it's one of the easiest repairs I've done on the car. It only took about 15 minutes and made an incredible difference to the running.

 

No matter where the hall sender is, it is designed to detect the camshaft position to control spark timing. It works via magnets and, on the late VR6s, I believe, it detects gaps in the camshaft sprocket wheel.

 

Every VW I've owned or driven seems to have needed this component replaced so if you have running problems then it's a strong possiblity.

 

Interestingly, I believe the VR6 can compensate for a broken hall sender signal by using other sensors and I think this is what happened with mine because I could feel it retarding and advancing the ignition as if it was sometimes getting the signal and sometimes not, especially when accelerating. With the old Golf, however, there were no other sensors to rely on so as far as it was concerned, the camshaft had stopped so it would not spark, hence the car would just coast to a halt until it detected it again. Very worrying on the motorway!

 

Alan

[SteveM16v 0]

ARSE!!!!! :mad:

 

Its not all fine and rosy at all. Whilst there is great improvement with the running of the car, the dodgy rev's (flicking all over the place) and the flat running is back. The flat running thing is weird - sometimes all the oomph is there and other times its really sluggish. When changing gear the revs drop very fast and dip to 5000 then it seems to compensate and raises to 15000 before settling down.

Could it be a leak in the exhaust?

 

What more could it be??????

[Henny 0]

is yours a 2.0 or a 1.8 16v?

 

If it's a 2.0 I'd go with Lambda or coolant temp sensor faults...

[SteveM16v 0]

its a very old (89) 16v 1.8

 

Thanks for your help Henny

[Rpmayne 0]

Had problems with my old 16v leads arching on the inlet manifold branches which caused the flatness and dodgy idling you describe. Just a thought, insulation tape round the top of the leads was a quick solution until I wrote it off. :roll:

[SteveM16v 0]

Thanks Rpmayne,

 

Do you mean the leads were getting hot which was causing the problem? Would it be worth buying some VW replacements?

[Henny 0]

disconnect the blue plug on the injector on the end of the inlet manifold... this is your cold start injector and it could be jammed open. See if that makes any difference... 8)

 

*edit* Rpmayne's suggestion is also a good one... it could be that your plug leads are old and the insulation has broken down meaning that they are shorting out onto the inlet manifold instead of getting the current to the plugs... get the engine up to temp in the dark and see if you can see any sparks on the engine from around the leads... you may need a fine spray of water onto them to see the spark clearly...

[Rpmayne 0]

I think the arching was taking some of the power away from the plugs so not getting complete ignition. Try running it at night and look for any sparks in that area. There was someone else on here who got some leads for around £40.00 which were upto VW quality (German Car Parts??). VW charge £120ish. A search should find the supplier, was pretty recent.

[SteveM16v 0]

you don't happen to have a diagram or know where I will find one :oops:

I'm so thick!

 

Thanks

 

For finding the blue plug that is

[SteveM16v 0]

I'll check but I don't think it will be the leads? They were replaced along with the plugs a couple on months ago. They aren't quality VW leads though?

[SteveM16v 0]

checked for sparking and there was nothing even with water being sprayed.

 

Henny, where will I find the plug thing?

 

Cheers

[Henny 0]

it's the blue plug in the red ring... ;)

[SteveM16v 0]

what a great bloke! :lol:

 

and yes I know.....I'm a div :oops:

[SteveM16v 0]

Just an update on this thread for those that may be suffering similer issues.

 

I changed the spark plugs and the problems went away! The garage that recently replaced them must have put some cheap nasty (SFK's I think) ones in that were not the right sort for the engine??

Whilst the engine is still not really seeming to pull as it should (I don't think this is realated), the engine is running much smoother and there are no more dipping rev's/ irratic idling.

 

Thanks for all the help and I'll keep you posted as I intend to change the leads shortly to see if I get a little more umph!!!!