20v T into a 2.0l 16v......

[mrbeige 0]

I've had a good read of most of the threads for doing a 20v conversion, but most are from either G60's or VR's......

 

I was going to just rebuild my 9a, but I've given up smoking as a new years resolution, and want to treat myself! 8) Was going to go down the 16v G60 route, but would have to build the engine from scratch, and I think it would be far less troublesome (and a lot cheaper) just to find a good standard engine to drop into my C :twisted:

 

From what I can gather it would be best to first find a 225bhp engine (insurers said this too), which I will trawl the scrap yards to find. What is the engine code for this engine, anyone?

 

What sort of things do I need to consider?

1) Engine mounts?

2) Can I use standard management as long as I have loom, ecu and key/clocks?

3) Can I use my standard cable change gearbox?

4) Would I need to upgrade the drive shafts (I would assume so but which ones should I use - G60?)

5) Radiator? G60 or ??

6) Manifold/Downpipe??

7) Oil Cooler?

 

Going to keep the engine standard for now (if I can find a 225bhp one), but am I missing anything obvious apart from Intercooler and pipe work etc?

 

Oh and mustn't forget to stop....brakes, would G60 calipers up front and MK4 golf calipers rear be good enough? Was considering ripping out the ABS, apparently G-man did this to good affect using a brake bias adjuster and Mk2 16 servo and master cylinder.

 

As must info as possible would be greatly appreciated guys, as I want to do this conversion myself (with the help of a friend of mine :-P )

 

Thanks

Monsieur Beige

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I've got some VR6 calipers and carriers and barely used Pagid pads if you want them? And also a Goodridge line set to go with (6 line).

You'll just need some G60 discs to complete.

 

As for the other stuff. Your driveshafts are OK. If you can get the full engine harness, ECU etc that would make life easier. Standard box OK although how strong it is compare to a G60/VR6 one I don't know.

 

A VR rad would be nice as it's the biggest one of the lot.

 

Manifold will come with the 225 engine. Down pipe might have to be custom made. Stealth know all about this conversion as do other members on here.

[Majik 0]

IIRC i dont think there is a way you can use the engine management from the 9A to work with the 20v

Most cars with the 20V came with a transponder immobiliser built into the ECU, so you can either use an aftermarket ECU or use the transponder circuit (maybe instrument cluster) and key from the donor car.

There is a way it can be done with the G60 digifant, but you need a kit (from volksports) to adjust the cam timing, and need to bin the coilpacks.

HTH

[mrbeige 0]

Majik, sorry if I have not explained myself correctly, I meant to say to use the management off the 20vt engine and transponder etc fom the donor car!

[rmn 0]

anyone have a list of the different type of 20v 1.8T engines, i know some of the early type ones have big valve heads

[mrbeige 0]

How different are the engine mounts between 20vt and 9a?

[rs200f40 0]

anyone have a list of the different type of 20v 1.8T engines, i know some of the early type ones have big valve heads

 

 

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/forum_post ... PN=1&TPN=2

[mrbeige 0]

So the engine codes I need to look for are as follows

AMU - TT

APX - TT

BAM - TT/S3

 

All of these use DBW, which I guess is the non throttle cable version. Will this cause me any issues/problems?

[rmn 0]

hmmm, i never kew the specs of the 1.8T's some serious power possabilities there

[mrbeige 0]

Change of plan...

AGU and AEB engine codes (150bhp - bigger porting on the head)

Apparently these are a stronger engine, is that the case?

 

AGU has cast crank and AEB has forged, which would be the stronger? Forged? Or doesn't it matter. I want to finally acheive around 250bhp, but also being a reliable daily drive.

 

Any thoughts?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Forged is stronger than cast i.e. less chance of hair line cracks or air pockets as it's extruded from a solid chunk of metal, as opposed to being formed in a mould.

 

Do any of the 225 engines have the forged crank? The 225 is better for power as it has the larger KKK04 turbo. The 180/150 units use the smaller KKK03 blower but these units are still good for about 230-240 max and smaller blower = less lag.

[mrbeige 0]

Was thinking along the lines of fitting a standard 150 engine for now, but as and when funds make themselves available, fit a larger turbo (maybe a roller bearing one) and then a remapping. The CR on the 150 is higher too, so am I right in thinking that it would be to my advantage?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

In that case the AEB engine would be a good choice initially and then you could fit a bigger IHI turbo and front mount IC when funds allow. BiggerBigBen is the man to speak to about this really, my knowledge of 1.8Ts is limited.

 

The higher CR would be to your advantage initially with a lower compression blower, but when you go for the big power, you might need to reduce it again, so in the long run, the 225 might be a better starting point but as always it's dependant on funds.

 

On the DBW front, you can fit a non DBW throttle body IIRC with some kind of Golf throttle cable but it all depends on the ECU etc etc.

[20v turbo 0]

its not the crank which is the problem realy its the con rods if you go for a 150 engine go for the agu as this has the bigger rods in it same as the bam tt engine and the big valve head,they have 20mm wrist pins where as the others only have 18mm ones.like kev says though it has got the higher compression so it probably would need lowering if you were considering a ihi turbo.

[mrbeige 0]

So all in all the AGU lump seems to be the one to go for....

forged crank, large port, 20mm wrist pins and cable throttle

 

These lumps I would guess would be the most common, and the cheapest going on their age, to find in the scrap yards?

 

How much do you reckon I could find one of these for?

[ruffy 0]

? I though the Agu had 19m wrist pins and the aum and aeb had 20 mm

seeming I just rebuilt my engine .. i hope its right .. :shock:

[mrbeige 0]

Ok, no I'm confused :scratch:

[ruffy 0]

Well the agu and aeb heads are the one to go for as Kev said as they have big ports but they have 19m wrist pins .. but the later lumps have 20 m wrist pins like the golf aum and the tt lumps but they suffer with smaller port heads. Nothing to worry about though as they both push big power 360 bhp from a IHI conversion.. that's if my memory serves me correctly.. and they both run the same crank..

 

Andy

[mrbeige 0]

What does IHI stand for? Sorry for being ignorant!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

What does IHI stand for? Sorry for being ignorant!

 

It's just the brand of turbo mate.... more info on the company here:- http://asp.turbo.com.sg/agencies_ihi.asp

[ruffy 0]

IHI turbo conversion from http://www.jabbasport.com

[mrbeige 0]

It's just the brand of turbo mate.... more info on the company here:- http://asp.turbo.com.sg/agencies_ihi.asp

 

Just a big turbo then :!:

 

Would IHI be the prefered make for a larger blower?

[rmn 0]

for the 1.8T's thats one way of going, QST do the MTM big turbo kit too

 

The IHI setup was run by jabba's own mk4 and bill brockbank has it in his ibiza cupra r, 350 bhp ish i think

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Just a big turbo then :!:

 

Pretty much!

 

Would IHI be the prefered make for a larger blower?

 

Again, BiggerBigBen is your man. He's got a 360 degree IHI on his 4x4 1.8T. Circa 360bhp IIRC. I have no idea what the 360 degree bit means! I think it's some kind of roller bearing instead of sintered bronze bushings that Garrett Turbos use.

[20v turbo 0]

Well the agu and aeb heads are the one to go for as Kev said as they have big ports but they have 19m wrist pins .. but the later lumps have 20 m wrist pins like the golf aum and the tt lumps but they suffer with smaller port heads. Nothing to worry about though as they both push big power 360 bhp from a IHI conversion.. that's if my memory serves me correctly.. and they both run the same crank..

 

Andy

well according to etka the agu has the same conrods as the bam tt engine which has the 20mm wrist pins :?