amp q's

[GIXXERUK 0]

in layman terms what is the high pass filter anmd low pass filter ?

i have a genesis amp and it can be set at 50 - 100 hz on the low pass and 20 - 200 on hp filter

what should i set it on ?

also i can alter the volts level from 4 - 0.3 wtf is that all about :lol:

 

all i am running from this is the two front focal components

 

tia

paul

[Henny 0]

hi pass filter lets only the hi frequencies through, so you'd turn that on for speakers which you don't want any bass going to.

 

Lo pass filter lets only the low frequencies through, so you'd turn that on for subs.

 

Depending on what speakers you're running off the amp depends on what frequency range you want putting through to the speakers...

 

For a set of full range (normal multi cone speakers) or even a component set with another seperate crossover, I'd turn on the hi pass and set it to around a third to knock out the bass which they won't handle very well. For a sub, turn on the low pass and have a play until you're happy with the amount of bass you get... 8)

 

I think you may have missed a "K" out in you HP filter's settings though... ;) 20 to 200 Hz is ALL bass! :lol:

[GIXXERUK 0]

cheers ian

[pablo_vr6 0]

use a HP, set to highest setting, crank volume to what you would consider the loudest you would listen to, drop the HP down will speakers distort.

 

job done :)

[fla 9]

old thread!

 

i have (at present) a Kenwood kdc 5541 hu no sub and no amp, but connected to the audioscapes. There is not much bass but presumably something can be done in the interim with the high pass and low pass filters? Not sure what they are or how to adjust them for the door speakers and the orginal tweaters. Any explanation (in laymans terms!) would be a great help.

[The_Dude 0]

I'm struggling to remember but I think there are HP filter boxes under the dash, at least I'm sure there were in my VR. They're about the size of a fag packet, with wires coming from the stereo and going to the speakers connected to terminals. I would suggest bypassing this for the door speakers to give you a bit more oomph. Try that and see how you get on, but decent bass from door speakers is not so easy as there are more than just HP filters to consider, such as the speaker itself, the seal of the pods against the doorcard, sound damping in the doors, etc.

To be honest dude, its well worth amping up the fronts anyway, I've got a 50w HU and a small amp driving them and the sound quality is much better as you're not overdriving the headunit to get any volume or bass. I think there's a cheap Alpine for sale on here which is identical to what I've got.

[fla 9]

ok thanks. Basic wiring question here, how do you wire up the Hu to amp to speakers? Is it just a striaght route from teh amp to the door speakers then through a filter to the tweeters in parallel to the door pods?

[fla 9]

this one again - i'm putting the amp in the boot and want to run the cable from there to the door speakers. These are 6.5" so will need to be amped. Is it correct to cut the 4 wires from the output of the ISO loom and join them there? Will this mean that the tweeters will also be amped up? Otherwise, how do you connect the door speakers to the amp, without havig to run fresh wire through the door boot? TIA

[colinstubbs 0]

To be honest fla if you're going to the effort of going to 6.5" speakers and an amp you should use a decent quality speaker cable or it'll be a waste. You'll be running RCA leads and power cables so to put in 2 pairs of speaker cable should be simple enough. The door speaker cables go through the door rubber concertina thingie and the tweeters are accessible even with big hands, just run both left/right sets of speaker cable from each left/right terminal on the amp (bi-wire) job done.

 

Depending on how big the amp is and the heat it produces you could mount it in the passenger footwell with a bit of a raised floor, with a set of mats no-one will notice the carpet not quite sitting right.

 

I've a PPI amp in my footwell and that gets hot but it's been fine with this set up no need for fans.....2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfBlack PPI (Large).jpg[/attachment:279km4z5]White PPI_Grill (7) (Large).jpg[/attachment:279km4z5]

[fla 9]

thanks for that colin. When you say bi-wire doe that mean one wire from teh pair goes direct to the 6.5, the other to the tweeter then out to the other connection on the 6.5? This would mean the tweeter is in series with the door speaker. Is this correct? Please excuse any inane questions :oops:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

'Bi-wiring' is mostly a domestic hi-fi thing. Some Hi-Fi geeks think splitting the crossover in half and running a cable for each speaker to the amp improves sound quality, but I've never noticed any difference at all compared to one wire feeding the crossover and splitting the signal that way.

 

'Bi-amping' is where it's at :norty: I.e. A seperate amplifier per speaker.

 

All you need to do made is run the output wire from your amp to your speaker's crossover. The crossover will split and filter the signal and you'll end up with a midbass output and a tweeter output.

 

If you don't have a crossover, run the amp wire direct to the mid bass unit and then run another wire from it in parallel to the tweeter, with an electrolytic capacitor (Maplins) in series with the positive wire. 4.7uf will cross over early, (i.e. the tweeter gets more unfiltered signal) and 2.2uf will cross over late, so the tweeter gets a very narrow frequency range, it depends how high your mids an go. I prefer 4.7 uf personally :D

[fla 9]

ah, ok. I've got the standrd nokia tweeters atm, these already have a basic crossover built in dont they? So am i right to follow the cable just to the tweeter and it will split istelf correctly from there?