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Having owned my VR6 for a while if theres one thing i've learnt is that they generate a hell of alot of heat under the bonnet. I was looking at my engine inlet in particular and the fact the inlet runs over the top of the engine can't help the air going in, the inlet manfold itself gets pretty warm. i had this idea about modifying the inlet so the throttle body is actually attached to the left side of the inlet ........i have drawn a quick pic and apologise for the poor quality but you'll know what i mean.

 

P.S the air filter is to be sat where the carbon canister goes........dint know how to draw it that way.

 

Please guys be gentle..................lozzz

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the length of the inlet tracts is connected to the torque and power you get from your engine... making the inlet tracts so short will bugger up the power band of the car something chronic... :|

 

A much better idea is to get some cool tape from somewhere like Demon-tweeks and coat the underside of the inlet manifold with that. This way you don't bugger up the engine's characteristics but reduce the heat soak the inlet manifold suffers from... 8)

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You should get VAG-COM mate and then you can monitor the IAT (intake air temperature). You may think the engine is roasting when you lift the bonnet after a drive but that isn't what the engine sees at 100mph when all that cold air is flowing through the manifold. The sensor is there to trim the fuelling accordingly, so you've nowt to worry about.

 

By it's very nature, it's a hot running engine because you've got 2 banks of 3 cylinders right next to eachother and VW designed the coolant system to cope, i.e. 12 litres of coolant, a massive radiator, 2 fans and 2 pumps.

 

You diagram would effectively do as henny said, kill the torque.

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Not only would it kill torque, unless your very carefull or your diagram is nothing like the finished article you wont get equal flow to each cylinder which could lead to det and an ultimately dead engine.

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kevhaywire, what is vag-com, ive heard lots about it but allways thought its diagnostic equipment that the stealers have only..or is it?

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VAG-COM was developed by http://www.ross-tech.com and is simply third party software and a lead that talks to the car via the OBD port (under the gear gaitor). VW dealers use their own 1551/1552 systems.

 

Where VAG-COM differs from 1551/2 is in the reporting. You get a nice report of what sensors are down or implausible. 1551/2 just throws up a number which has to be looked up in a book....and VW charge up to £80 an hour for such a service! VAG-COM is about £100.

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there's all sorts or ceramic coatings that can be fitted, and phenolic spacers to stop the heat soak fromthe head heating up the manifold.

 

If you're THAT concerned abou it then fit the plastci rocker cover of a late golf VR6, disconnect the collant lines on the throttle body and join them together, and fit a breather filter on the rocker cover. and a cold air intake too.

 

IIRC the ECU uses a default value of 60C if the inlet manifold temp sensor fails.

 

oh, and has been pointed out, you can only run a short runner inlet manfild if it's a forced induction application, normally aspirated motors need long inlet tracts.

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IIRC the ECU uses a default value of 60C if the inlet manifold temp sensor fails.

 

Good man, cheers for that. My IAT is currently unplugged as it runs like sh1t with it connected. 60 deg is quite hot, so I'm guessing the mixture would be leaned off slightly?

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not sure, but when I ran the early passat manifold on mine I tried it with the sensor unplugged and also with it tied to the outside of the manifold and I never noticed it running much different with either situation.

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Found this mate:-

 

*** Intake Air Temperature Sensor (G42) ***

 

An intake air temperature sensor is located in the intake manifold on

the left side.

 

* Signal application: *

 

The signal is used for idle stabilization and as a correction factor for

ignition timing.

 

* Substitute function: *

 

If a failure of the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (G42) occurs, the

Motronic Electronic Control Unit assumes a temperature of 20° C (68° F).

If this happens, cold start problems could occur at temperatures under

0° C (32° F).

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