I give up!!!! ( NOW FIXED HURAHHHHH)

[Banana Man 0]

I came out of work on thursday afternoon got in the car and started it up, the car started first time but was running on 3 cylinders so turned off the car and had a quick look under the bonnet to see if something simple was wrong but couldn't see anything so got back in the car and tried starting it but it wouldn't fire at all now. The car turns over but doesn't fire

 

things ive checked

 

* voltage at all senders ( they have voltage)

* checked fuel pump is priming ( it does)

* checked for spark ( there is a spark present)

* checked there is fuel coming through ( took plugs out and cranked over the engine and fuel was squirting)

* checked earths ( all ok)

* Immobiliser is re routed at the moment and that seems to be ok

* checked cam timing to make sure it hasn't slipped ( everything aligns as it should)

* swapped ecu's just to rule that out of the equation ( no change so thats seems to be ok)

* swapped the cold temp switch wiring with the water switch and still no change ( so presume thats ok)

* changed the coil ( no change so thats ok)

* bought a new blue temp switch today (no change)

* changed coil ( no change)

* plugs are 2 weeks old so they are ok

 

 

 

I ve run out of ideas now as I ve gone through everything I can think of!!!

 

Even though there seems to be fuel and spark present when cranking it still doesn't fire at all which is a real mystery.

 

Can anyone else come with any ideas on what else to try as I rerally need to get the car fixed this weekend or I am going to have problems getting to work as my golf has run out of MOT and insurance :(

[kongo127 0]

Well...

If you got fuel and sparks on all plugs the engine should fire...

Have you checked you dizzy, rotor arm, cap, hall sender?

Is your igintion timing correct? Could the 13mm bolt unscrewed and dizzy has moved? :wink:

[Banana Man 0]

Checked cap, checked rotor and the hall sender is putting out 10v across 2 of the pins like it should do. The dizzy is only 3 months old so should all be ok anyway.

 

Checked that the dizzy hasn't moved 13mm bolt is still done up tight and you cant move it by hand.

 

 

In theory the car should start as there is fuel and there is a spark that is what's so frustrating as thats all a combustion engine needs to start but even when being bump started it doesn't even think about firing!

[Skimask 0]

B-man,

If you have the old dizzy, try putting that back in, see if it makes a difference. You seem to have checked everything, only a massive vacuum leak is left, make sure they are all airtight!

[Banana Man 0]

haven't got the old dizzy as it was an exchange item and that was faulty as well anyway

 

I changed all the vacuum hoses a week ago when I had the last problem so they are all ok I ve gone over all of them again to check as well.

[thorpey 0]

could it be ecu? might need resetting ? unplug it and then plug back in

[Jim 1]

G60 ECU doesn't 'learn' values like the VR6 one does, so disconnecting it to do a reset won't do much unfortunately :(

[Banana Man 0]

As jim says you dont need to reset the G60 ecu plus I have swapped the ecu with my spare and it still has the same problem

[thorpey 0]

have u tried putting old spark plugs back in,were they a different type?

[chubbybrown 0]

can you smell fuel from the sparkplugs ?

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Check the fusebox/relays carefully,

try this,while your trying to start the car,

with one hand try moving the relays and

fuse box connections with your other hand.

My g60 turbo had the same problem,somtimes

started,sometimes no spark at the plugs.

Check also Ign.switch contacts.

Regards,Andrew.

[Banana Man 0]

definately fuel on plugs and the plugs are 2 weeks old W6 DPO if a plug was down it would still fire. I dont think it is a relay problem as all the starting circuit has voltage ie starter motor, fuel pump, dizzy, coil etc etc

 

I am kinda thinking along the lines of it being the halls sender thats at fault even though it's only a few months old. I reckon it might be firing at the wrong time which is why it isn't igniting the fuel and flooding the engine.

 

I'm going to rig up the timing strobe to cylinder 1 and when cranking see if it strobes on the tdc mark on the crankshaft pulley if it's firing at the wrong time it has got to be the hall sender in whic case is under guarantee as it's only a few months old ( only covered about 3k miles)

 

Thanks for the tips guys keep em coming if you have anymore ideas.

 

Will keep you posted

[Banana Man 0]

Just put the timing strobe on cylinder one and no strobing while cranking it over at all!! So took the ht lead off cylinder one and attatched another plug and grounded it and then cranked the engine over again and there was a very weak spark so my conclusion is that the hall sender must be faulty in the distributor as that sends the signal to the coil to amplify the spark iirc. I'm going to ring ecp tomorrow and get the dizzy swapped over as it'll be a warranty job and hopefully that will solve the problem!!!

 

 

If not I will have a corrado for breaking :D

[exturbo2003 0]

sounds like it could be flooded as you started it and then turned it off

try new plugs and keep your foot to the floor till she starts and make sure you rev it a bit for a few seconds till she will idle

if you break it can i have first dibbs on the engine please lol

if the spark is weak it wont be the hall sender it will spark or not its just a switch. take the plug off the dizzy and ground the middle pin and as you do the coil should spark. if its a sronger spark check the earth on the dizzy body to battery earth. should be no more then .3v if its more a high resistance in the earth system is present. usally the battery to chassis. try a jump lead from battery neg to dizy body

hope this helps

[bcstudent 0]

In theory the car should start as there is fuel and there is a spark that is what's so frustrating as thats all a combustion engine needs to start

 

I think it'll need some air too!

 

If you have a spark at all then surely the Hall sensor is doing its job in telling the ECU to fire the coil. Wouldn't a weak spark more likely be down to a faulty coil or other ignition component?

[Guest]

I want that engine lol

[W3RKD 0]

try changing the king lead ant.

[Supercharged 2]

Have you tried the Dizzy then Ant? - let me know how you get on a I seem to have exactly the same problem but intermittently getting worse...

[Banana Man 0]

I posted in your thread last night as well :D

 

I ve got my car started now but it's seriously over fuelling thick black smoke out the exhaust and has a very lump idle I ve gone through everything I can think of now

 

Lambda seems to be doing it's job

earths seem to be good

distributor is producing a very good spark now ( after cleaning it)

ecu seems fine

BTS is working ( revs drop to about 500rpm when disconnected)

isv is working

vacuum hoses are all good

Engine compression is good

alternator is good

Battery is good

plugs are good

leads are good

cap is good

Rotor arm is good

wot switch is good

idle switch is good

timing is good

fpr is good

 

 

I think that covers most things that it could have been causing the problem but the problem is still there so I have no idea now.

[G60JAY 0]

I had the same problem a while back and it was the blue temp sensor which was causing it to over fuel on startup. I know you think it's ok but the only way to be sure is to either replace it or test it with a multimeter. Could also be a problem with a wire tracking down somewhere.

Does it over fuel on start up still or when it's been running for a bit?

[Henny 0]

Ant? What injectors are you running? Is it possible you've got one that's over fuelling? Are all of your plugs the same colour now you've got it running, or is one blacker than the rest?

[Rossco 0]

Check your vacum pipe from the fuel pressure regulator to the inlet manifold, mine was buggered and it was reekin out smoke

[Banana Man 0]

the blue temp sensor was replaced on saturday and the wiring is ok for it

 

Running the red tops injectors and all the plugs are the same colour ( black!)

 

Vacuum hoses are all new including fpr-inlet

[jezzaG60 0]

Sounds like the ignition side of things is all ok so must be a fueling issue.....

 

Have you actually checked the fuel pressure?.... have to say its unlikely that it would be way higher than it should be for any reason.

Lambda sensor shouldn't be an issue during warm-up so you can count that out.

What about the CO pot in the induction? This thing is an air temperature sensor so helps control fueling... it also sets the CO content.... i.e the fueling. Check for approx 500ohms resistance between the outer two pins on the CO pot. check for some reading between pin 1 and 2 which is the temperature reading.

Failing that.... get a multimeter and check every sensor wiring back to the main ECU plug. Not unheard of for the wire to break in the loom somewhere. If that doesn't show anything then trying someone elses ecu will see if that is a problem.

[Supercharged 2]

If that doesn't show anything then trying someone elses ecu will see if that is a problem.

 

He's tried another ECU, does sound like the dizzy if it made a noticable difference when you cleaned it..?