_leon_ 0 Posted March 17, 2005 Thought I had this one worked out... I have removed the pulley and have a new Gates belt from VW (Gates 9.5 x 663mm). Already loosened off the tensioner but cant for the life of me seen to get the pulley back into place with the belt around it - i.e. it wont pull far enough over for me to refit. Do I also need to undo the bolts for the pump? I though removing the pulley would be enough... I've attached 2 pictures :) thanks for help in advance - I need to do this tomorrow morning so the garage can fit my new mounts!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woody 0 Posted March 17, 2005 Do that tensioner back up amd do not remove water pump unless replacing as g12 will pi** all over the place. To change the power steering belt jack up and Remove drivers front wheel. Then you will able to see a bolt head in the middle of the pulley. Get suitable socket and screwdriver and place new pulley onto PAS pulley nearest front of car and then turn socket whilst feeding onto the rear pulley using the screwdriver to help it on its way. 20 min job max Cheers Woody Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 17, 2005 almost following you here :) is it the front or rear pulley that has the bolt in the center? Understand its the opposite pulley which I shall use the screwdriver as a guide into its rightful place? I just found the belt was too tight to allow any movement past a certain point - hope this works! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woody 0 Posted March 17, 2005 it the rear pulley which you can see once you have the wheel off. Hook the new belt onto the front pulley use the screwdriver to hold the belt onto the rear one and just turn the socket. One point be a little careful arround the brake pipe as you are turning the sockets just a few clicks at a time. Once the belt is on half way remove the screwdriver and turn soctet until belt slips on completely. There you go . I replaced my old worn belt on my G60 two weeks ago for a new one so i know it can be done in this manner. Cheers Woody Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 17, 2005 great stuff - thanks again Woody - that makes it clearer. Looks like I'll be doing this at 7am ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 18, 2005 What I would do is release the adjustment tension on the power steering belt and put the belt on properly. You shouldn't have to use a screwdriver to force the belt on. As the belt gets older it will stretch and then it will slip unless adjusted and once adjusted a new belt won't fit on there properly. If you get the belt on there you will then apply too much tension and this can cause failure of the power steering pump gront bearing or the water pump bearing. What I would do is loosen it and then slip the belt on and adjust it. It is easy to adjust once you understand how the tensioning system works for the power steering. http://members.shaw.ca/vr6_corrado-3/G6 ... ering1.jpg In this pic you can see the front of the power steering pump, at the top right of the pic you can see the point at which the pump pivots and the adjuster is at the lower left of the pic with the 'A'. What you do is loosen the bolt for the pivot marked 'P' and then loosen the lock nut on the rear of the adjuster marked 'A'. Now, there are two more bolts that will need to be loosened as well. http://members.shaw.ca/vr6_corrado-3/G6 ... ering2.jpg On the bottom of the pic you can see the bolt with the arrow that is slotted, this is the first bolt you must loosen. There is a second one that is hidden where the upper arrow is, this is hard to get at but it needs to be loosened as well. Once you have these bolts loose you will be able to move the pump in and then slip the belt on and then tighten the adjuster until you have the proper amount of tension and tighten the locknut on the back of the adjuster. Tighten the other bolts and then make sure the belt didn't overtighten when you snugged the other bolts up. That's it, you can get the belt on and adjust it properly and you should be good to go. Hope this helps, Dennis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 18, 2005 Insane_VR6 - you are a true gentleman - thank you very much!! help appreciated. i got there in the end - the bolts were extremely hard to get shifting! I agree its the access that makes all these jobs difficult. Now I know the bolt that Henny was referring to in an earlier post :) This would make a good How-to article for the forum... Thanks again guys for your help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
belfastfumanchu 0 Posted November 17, 2006 Does the same process apply to the 1.8 16v ? Belts located is same place etc..? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
belfastfumanchu 0 Posted November 18, 2006 Can anyone tell me....as per my Q above. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted November 18, 2006 sorry mate - not aware of the valver setup :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted November 20, 2006 Can anyone tell me....as per my Q above. depending on the build date of your 16v (you may have the later 2.0L pulleys on your 1.8 ) the pulley arrangement is slightly different, late cars have a belt driving the ps pump only from the crank, on earlier ones this belt also drive the waterpump. You should be able to do the belt quite easily once the right bolts are loosened. you need to slacken the nut on the end of the long bolt that goes through the PS pump bracket and water pump/alternator bracket, this is the one that you can see from the engine bay looking down in front of the alternator, about 14cm long No. 18 on the diagram. You then need to slacken the bolts inside the lower alloy ps pump bracket, no.13, of which there are two No. 20 13mm bolts. A long extension bar helps here and they are fiddly to get at as you can't see what you are doing, once these are loosened slightly you can undo the nut on the side of the adjustment bolt and remove the adjuster bolt altogether, this will then allow full movement of the ps pump swinging on it's bracket (14cm bolt) and the correct length belt will come off/push on over the pulley edges. Do not slacken the bolts that actually holds the pump onto it's small bracket No. 10 there is no need. Looks pretty similar to G60 procedure I think, but this was written from my experience of doing the job on my early 16v. David. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
belfastfumanchu 0 Posted November 20, 2006 Thats more than helpful davidwort, thanks a million! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites