VR6 Distributor / hall sender replacement

[schrickvr6 0]

I've got a strange intermittent problem where the car goes then holds, goes, holds, particularly at higher revs, it also doesn't really sound like a misfire but it feels like it. The problem also seems to get better as the car warms up but not always.

 

I've replaced all the obvious stuff such plugs, rotor arm and cap and the coil(92k dizzy) has been changed as the old one died.

 

All that changed nothing so i got the car on the snap-on equivalent of vag-com which threw up fault codes for the lambda, hall sender and crank sensor....but the engine wasn't running so i'm guessing thats why i got the last two, anyhow i've changed the lambda and now when i get this problem it feels very flat around 1000rpm, i'm guessing again that this is because now its not running in safe mode the ignition timing has been advanced a fair old whack.

 

The only thing i can think of is the ht leads breaking down under strain but they are pretty new magnecor kv-85s, could it be an intermittent fault or maybe dodgy wiring with hall sender or crank sensor?

 

Sorry about the long post but i'm stumped :roll: If you need any more info on the engine let me know as it is pretty heavily tuned.

 

TIA :D

[STORM 2 0]

I would replace the hall sender anyway (30 quid) - it sounds like you had exactly the same problem as mine....I replaced plugs,leads,coilpack,fuel filter, cleaned out isv and intake system until I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the hall sender which finally resolved the problem. worth a try because there are so many possible faults that can cause such symptoms - a look around this forum will tell you that your problem is extremely common

 

nb dont know which engine you have but the above applies to the VR

[schrickvr6 0]

Thanks STORM 2

 

I got my car on vag-com today with the engine running and i did have an intermittent out of range/no signal fault with the hall sender. Unfortunately the hall sender is part of the distributor and is not available seperately.....later on i got the dizzy off to get the part number to check for prices as i didn't like the sound of £176 trade price......and then i noticed the plastic shield that protects the wiring from getting cut up was gnarled right up and wedged between the sensor and the metal hub.

 

Anyhow i've stripped the dizzy down, removed the remains of the plastic shield, glued the wires down and cleaned it out tidy with some white spirits, i'll give it a chance to dry out and hopefully it will be ok :?

 

edit: Does it matter which way around the spindle/hub of the dizzy fits onto the cam?

[schrickvr6 0]

Ah well it's knackered, has anyone got a vr6 distributor going cheap?

[vr6storm 0]

i assume going by yer username yer VR6 has a schrick manifold?????........and if it has.........was it bought in the last year in the big group buy??

[schrickvr6 0]

It has but i bought it about 5 years ago for £500 2nd hand. :D

[vr6storm 0]

It has but i bought it about 5 years ago for £500 2nd hand. :D

 

nice one :D ...........its just that the ones bought in the group buy last year were faulty and needed some rectification by a machine shop......just thought your one had maybe slipped the net

[schrickvr6 0]

Ok thanks for asking, what was wrong with them?

[vr6storm 0]

Ok thanks for asking, what was wrong with them?

 

 

IIRC the flap would keep on jamming but only once the manifold was torqued up....so would appear perfect prior to fitting

[schrickvr6 0]

I found a 2nd hand dizzy today from a supposedly low (but unknown) mileage car for about £85 inc vat & delivery, does that sound about right?..... I thought it was a bit steep.

 

At the moment i'm leaning towards a new one unless the local auto sparky can find a sensor to rebuild my one. :roll:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

nice one :D ...........its just that the ones bought in the group buy last year were faulty and needed some rectification by a machine shop......just thought your one had maybe slipped the net

 

Mine and two others were the only ones that needed 'tweaking' out of the 30 odd purchased.

 

The flap is sensitive to the torque you apply when fitting the upper half of the manifold. Too much or too little torque can cause the flap to rattle at idle but it won't affect the way the manifold works or get sucked into the engine.

[Chris VR6nos 0]

but what a crap problem to have Kev, being that they aren't a cheap item and the rep that schrick have!

 

 

Chris