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Scott

RAM AIR Results.......

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Well… I have just put my RAM AIR on the VR6 and first impressions were that it seemed a bit quiet on tick over….. so off I goes for a drive….. lets the oil warm up…. 90degC and waited for a bit of open road to get the revs up…. 3500rpms and it starts whistling…mmmmm… 4000rpm…RROOOOOOOAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!! – What the *~~%!!!!!!!!!!! – MAD!!! – absolutely mad so now I’m bombing round in 2nd gear everywhere at 4000rpm – lol *:) - and there was me thinking mpg would increase due to being more efficient....... mmmmm *:p

 

Anyways after my antics anyone know how to sort the cold air feed – was told to direct it behind grills in bumper but the radiator is there and no space for the pipe!!!! – I have a 80mm diameter K & N air feed to use for it but no where to put it *:(

 

And finally it might not put anymore bhp out but the throttle response is fantastic *:)

 

GET ONE!

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Good work! I would be keen to findf out about the cold air feed. I'm not really into tuning and like the sleeper feel of the VR6 but I'm suprised at how how the engine bay gets and a cold air feed can only be a good thing :)

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I prefer sleeper feel too ... hence I wont be touching the outside of the car at all..... a few minor mods to engine, suspension and brakes (now done)... should result in about 220bhp without going mad *:)

 

I like the looks of the VR6 as standard - I just wanted to improve the in gear response a little and the mods have planned for engine (chip, throttle body mod, filter and exhaust) will do this.... only doing suspension and brakes as after ten years they will feel tired although you wouldnt think so till you put new stuff on 8)

 

Cold air feed has got me baffled though.... the original air box goes into the back of the headlight!!! :?

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there is a cover next to the left fan which allows you to channel air up through th ebottom of the bumper. All you have to do is remove the plastic guard a couple of screws and thats it.

 

Te best way is to remove the carbon canister that sits in the inner wing and direct some ducting up there straight into your system. again, simple to do, you just need to link the piping correctly as one of these is the fule vapour return. The other goes to a valve. Let me know if you want help, I will show you pics if you want.

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I'll prob remove the cover then mate - left fan looking from front of car - ie. closest to AFM??? or other side?

 

I dont want to mess with the carbon canister - VW put it there for a reason *;)

 

You reckon will be worth doing a ECU reset for filter? - new values?

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Mate, the CC has no real function as they need to be changes after a period to maintain emmisions. Its is simply restricting points for air feeds. Its up to you obviously if you want to keep it or not.

 

If you are looking at the engione bay, its to the left, remove this cover and you will see a gap way. If you pierce the air ducting with something sharpe you can tie wrap the ducting to something i.e the grill at the bottom of the bumper.

 

I have actually just moved the CC in front of the alternator on my VR as I need to keep the CC valve connected as it affected the starting of my engine. Now I have to simply connect the wire, keeping the valve in place and remove the large CC.

 

Your filter needs as much direct air as possible, cool air I might add so your best bet is to go where the CC is kept. That way you are far away from hot mechanical parts and if your worried about the CC just move it iether into the wing a Crazyman did and its kept up right or where I moved it too, all you have to do is extend the pipes to move the CC to another place.

 

Your point about the CC and VW putting it there for a reason is the same seniro as the air box so its just an extra modification for you. I was worried untill I had expert advise on it and my car drives the best its ever driven with out the CC due to extra air! Every little helps.

 

To get your car put on the rollers is up to you, if you havent done it already then I would, purely for curiosity. The filter will never gives big BHP increases, and dont be fooled by the companies that say they give you 15 BHP increase as a few grand spend would give you that sort of increase. You're on the right tract with the basics anyway.

 

Another point to make is if you cut the plastic vents away from the bottom of your bumper, and mesh it, the air flows through the meatal better than through the plastic as their is less friction.

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i'd give the carbon cannister a try. vw put it there because they were forced to for emissions and after 10 years how well do you really think a carbon filter is working anymore? you don't necessarily have to remove it either. the lines are long enough that you can drop it down inside the inner wing and free up that hole for your cold air feed. that's how mine was setup until last week when i pulled all the shit out. carbon cannister, isv, boost return...kaput.

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Some good info there guys - cheers!!!

 

I might re allocate the carbon canister and perhaps even get a new one to keep in line with emmisions :p lol

 

Car was rr'd at Dubsport about two months ago in standard form with 191.6 bhp and 185.9 lbft Torque......

 

:D

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Mate, you really wont ahve any problems without it. It was mainly an American thing anway as their emmissions are much more resctrictive. Seriously, if you ditch it and get your emmisions checked you wont notice a difference!

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Its not to do with the exaust emmisions though, is it. The point of it is to stop fuel vapours from the tank getting vented to atmosphere and instead getting rerouted back into the intake system. I dont see what difference it would make how old the carbon can is as it just stores the vapours until the valve opens then the vapours get sucked into the intake and burnt off.

I thought removing it caused running problems with my car but I know think it was because I started it with the maf unplugged, I noticed it straight away and the car never ran right after plugging it in. Ive now done an ecu reset and my car is running perfect without the carbon canister or valve.

Only negative point ive noticed is the occasional whiff of fuel vapours as the tank is now venting to atmosphere.

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Mmmmmmmmmmmm - I take a lot of convincing *:) LOL

 

Looks like its going to be moved then or binned :lol:

 

Cheers!

 

Scott

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You vent the pipe back into the air box! So you should be fine. I am off, its time to leave work, speak to you monday.

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Whats with all this cold Air ramming?? I know they talk about it alot on F1, will it make a big difference to a VR6?? if so might give it a go.

 

You need a ram air kit? which type and what do they look like, is it a case of extending the air intake pipe to a cold air supply with a K&N filter bolted on the end. Or is it more of a forced induction, air funneled in with greater car speed?.

 

How much do they cost and what inprovements do they give, is there an insurance loading?

 

Am really getting in to the idea of a few simple mods on my car but am cash restricted, whats the best buy for your £££, suspension,brakes,exhaust, engine??

 

Cheers Guys.

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Well I guess it depends what you actually want from your car... there are little mods you can do that will enhance a number of things, but it might not be worth doing mods if you don't have anything you particuarly want to change about the car!! :)

 

An induction kit is a good buy for the VR6.. makes a superb noise when you stick your toe down.. should also give a slight BHP increase, and also better throttle response. But the noise is what you buy it for :p

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Whats with all this cold Air ramming?? I know they talk about it alot on F1, will it make a big difference to a VR6?? if so might give it a go.

 

Not really. Whilst the theory of feeding the engine with cold air makes the air/fuel mix more dense is true, the effects of 'ram' air are negligable on a road car. If you put a trumpet on the front of the car and channel it into the air box, you get a 0.5psi pressure increase in the air box at 100mph. The engine won't notice this. In F1 where the air scoop is above the driver's head and the car averages 180mph, then yes there is a small benefit. It's just a marketing ploy to make you part with your cash.

 

Am really getting in to the idea of a few simple mods on my car but am cash restricted, whats the best buy for your £££, suspension,brakes,exhaust, engine??.

 

Suspension and brakes first, most definitely. These enable you to do more with the power you've got and sets a new reference point when calculating your power upgrades.

 

Kev

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Scott,

 

220bhp from a VR6 is not possible with the few simple mods you mention.

 

Even my VSR-equipped VR doesn't make that much. It also has a panel filter, gas-flowed throttle body a re-map and a freeer flowing exhaust.

 

That's about £2.5k of mods... :(

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Is there any point flowing the 2.9 throttle body? I thought the smaller 2.8 body was worth flowing, or just fitting a 2.9 body? I've looked at the 2.9 body and there doesn't seem like there's much of a lip to remove. Stealth seem to agree with me on that but I am always accepting of corrections/disagreements :o

 

You have a lot of torque from your mods though Mike :D

 

Kev

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Might get my dremel out then! I gas flowed a 16V throttle body once to good effect. Made bugger all difference to the performance though but the experience was invaluable. Always use a donor body, and not your own in case of bodges.

 

Kev

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I have also heard that keeping your standard air box can be benificial if you take out the CC and cut a hold in the bottom of the airbox - the same size as the diameter as what the CC used to house and a special panel filter as the air box gives good air circluation and you use some air ducting to supply the air box with direct air so the engine can suck in a good amount of cold, clean air, more so that just sucking in small quantities.

 

You also get a good sound as the plastic resignates off each side of the box, so its a cheaper mod and maybe more benifical. I am still not 100 percent convinced, I would like to take the car along to get tested on the rollers to see what differencre these after market filters make.

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