G60 - water pump replacement

[TajMan 0]

Ok I have a '90 G60, my water pump has just gone bad. It didn't start leaking, but it started make a funny sound like chunks of metal being knocked around. Holding a vinyl hose in your ear against different parts confirms that it is the water pump area making the noise. I went to autozone to buy a new one, and it got to a point where he asked me what size hub the pulley piece on the pump was (20 or 30mm I believe). I didn't know, so he gave me the common item (that he had in stock) instead of the other one (that he was out of stock on). I'll check agains the old one once I get it off, and if I need the other one I will return this one and order that one.

 

Anyway, I need a repair guids, instructions, etc for replace the water pump on these engines, I don't have anything. It shouldn't bee too hard, I've done a lot of pumps that require timing belt removal, this one doesn't LOOK hard.

 

I tried searching but couldn't come up with any good links. Any good threads?

[h100vw 0]

The worst part of doing the waterpump on a G60 is having to take off the charger and probably the air con compressor on a US spec car. After that it's pretty much as for a std NA GTI.

It would probably take you a couple of hours solid, depending on how much cleaning of the removed parts you do before putting them back on.

AFAIK there is only one pump for a G60. The only way it could be a different number is if you just buy the pump without the housing. I don't recommend this as you always come across siezed bolts that snap off.

Gavin

[TajMan 0]

Why the hell would the supercharger need to come off? Its not near the waterpump at all. And I knew there probably wasn't different pumps, but in autozone's computers they list two (even for the 1990 only year!)

[Supercharged 2]

The charger and alternator sit ontop of the charger bracket which goes directly over the water pump...

 

The waterpump is the same as most mk2 and mk3 Golfs - the whole assembly is about £21+vat from VW

[GazzaG60 0]

make sure you get the right pump.

 

ive had the wrong one and its a PITA (cheers Gav)

[h100vw 0]

I said sorry at the time :oops:

[GazzaG60 0]

just thought id raise awareness of possible wrong item issues.

 

twas an honest mistake rectified many times since. :wink: :)

[TajMan 0]

Yeah the water pump I got was the right one.

 

I just took the main pulley off, nobody told me the timing belt attatches to it!!! The timing wasn't lined up cause I had no idea. I'll just put the pulley straight back on, but now how do I check the timing to make sure its right before I start the car? Where are the marks located?

[TajMan 0]

Well I found out the problem. Turns out it wasn't the water pump. It was a bolt that had worked its way out, above the intermediate shaf--or whatever its called--pulley. I tightened it back up, and I left the water pump alone.

[TajMan 0]

The car is making a new sound now, definitely something not right, only makes it when you go wide open throttle. Any ideas?

[Rossco 0]

Boost, its lovely

[TajMan 0]

Boost is right. The car was pre-detonating under full (or near full) throttle. I am now going to undoo the bolt at the distributor and set the ignition timing again. Can off ignition timing cause pre detonation? The car has a 65 mm pulley, but wasn't pre detonating before.

[Henny 0]

yup, if the timing's out you can get pinking...

[TajMan 0]

I set the ignition timing today, and the car still is making the sound it was before just the same. :( I don't know whats going on now. I don't think its a tank of low octane fuel.

[TajMan 0]

If you set the mechanical timing so the head and the crank were timed perfectly, but the intermediate shaft for the ignition timing was one tooth off... would the car still run? I set the ignition timing with a timing light, but that was in the area on the trans that has that rubber plug I removed, didn't use it on the crank pulley mark or anything. If that was really one tooth off, did I not set correct timing?

[h100vw 0]

If you set it wih a light then having the intermediate shaft a tooth out wouldn't matter.

You find that the physical mark on the dissy rim won't be lined up but that doesn't matter to the engine if the sparks are at right time.

Gavin

[TajMan 0]

I'm gonna need an expert to hear this and help diagnose my problem. And I'm broke and the damn car was up for sale. Not good.

[TajMan 0]

I think my timing belt is too tight! I had a mechanic tell me that today, and I read a post on the forum today that a car can make the sound mine is making if you tighten the timing belt too tight!

[Supercharged 2]

Yep, it's a bit of an art getting it to th right tension but basically you should be able to twist the best at a right angle to itself but no further.

[TajMan 0]

But would that explain the knocking/whizzing sound only happening under FULL throttle?

[Henny 0]

yup, full throttle's when the cam belt is under the most load making it tighten up over the cam and bottom sprockets... this could well explain the whizzing noise... the knocking could be a bearing that's complaining about the extra stress being put on it by the overly tight cambelt... :|

[TajMan 0]

I checked, my timing belt isn't overtightened. It does the 90 degree twist perfect on the longest stretch. I remember checking it this way when I installed it originally too.

 

Any other guesses?

[Garry 0]

Sounds like pre-detonation

[TajMan 0]

And the cause was: The timing was 1 or 2 teeth off on the intermediate shaft for the distributor. Doh!

[Supercharged 2]

Nice one Taj, glad you got it sorted!