Rory 0 Posted July 18, 2003 My engine bay still has all of what appears to be the original wax that protects the paint although the stuff is on my plastic rocker cover and wiring near the strut tops its ugly and yellowish. Is this standard??? Futhermore the chassis legs near the bulkhead are collecting dirt which appears to be stuck to this paint protection. How would i clean the engine leaving it sparkly and new but not so that the car may start corroding? Have heard horror stories bout steam cleaning. Is it any good? Whats the problem with it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted July 18, 2003 My c has same yellow stuff and im sure its engine laquer, tried hot steam cleaners and all sorts as i work at a garage and this stuff is tough !! But still cant shift it :x had to use paint stripper to get it off manifold :shock: Im no help here sorry :( but if you find a way to remove it i would love to know the acid u use :D Cheers James Rory-where abouts in the north east are u? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rory 0 Posted July 18, 2003 Ive just sent you a PM :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sc16v 0 Posted July 18, 2003 Many garages know adays dont even go near the idea of steam cleaning, as the results can be quite damaging (ie all the electrics and coils) Many times the arguments between customers and garages over problems after steam cleaning can be nasty with no one wanting to pay to rectify the problem. Youre better using a special cleaner or spray brake cleaner on the parts required and clean with a cloth. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 18, 2003 Yeah.. have heard a lot of horror stories about engine steam cleaning. I'd personally not bother with it, and just clean individual parts with a bit of elbow grease :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rory 0 Posted July 19, 2003 Yeah.. have heard a lot of horror stories about engine steam cleaning. I'd personally not bother with it, and just clean individual parts with a bit of elbow grease :) Thats a bummer, bit workshy see :( . Will my elbow grease not rub off the paint protection? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted July 19, 2003 I was never one for cleaning under the engine bay to be honest.. I am a bit dense when it comes to cars & mechanical bits, and I never dared disconnect stuff for fear of not being able to put it back together again :) As for paint protection.. I dont know :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spoier 0 Posted July 19, 2003 I just cleaned most of my engine bay last weekend, took out handful after handful of oily sand from under the battery and airbox... strange!! I used brake cleaner (non-clorinated) on the really oily bits and Simple Green spray on the rest... let sit for 10 minutes and spray off with a hose on really low "mist" setting. Then I let it sit for two days before starting. Skye Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaulG40 0 Posted July 19, 2003 Get some gunk engine cleaner it very strong stuff but blimey it works, I cleaned all the panel bits (bits that are body colour) as the dirt just stays there over the years, this gunk stuff takes it off then all you need to do is polish the areas when finished and thats it your engine bay gleams. Just do it outside cos the stuff stank the house out even though the garage door was open it's that strong. The gunky yellow stuff (waxoil) keep it over the spot welds or any joints as thats what it's perpose is to protect the joints etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skid 1 Posted July 19, 2003 Being a biker i have tried all the engine cleaners out there and as paulg40 said Gunk is very good but smells for ages and it will even stink up your clothes and hands for ages.It will also stain the floor you are working on. Jizer is as good but doesnt smell or stain as much. But what ever you use get in with a brush and give it all a good scrubbing. But when you are finished do all the electrics with a WD40 type product. Then spray the whole lot with a protectant likeSCOTTOILER FS 365. :D It protects against all corrosion and rust. I have seen many bikes gone through winter and come out still mint in the spring time. The good thing about these products is that once you have given the car a good thrashing the smell they give off is oustanding mmmmm. :shock: :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted July 20, 2003 The good thing about these products is that once you have given the car a good thrashing the smell they give off is oustanding mmmmm. :shock: :D oh no.....stevie and his smell fetish again :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rory 0 Posted July 22, 2003 Gunk brush on for £5.99 or the other one for £10.99? What about electrics/plastics etc? Shall i use a wire brush? Whats the best way to go about it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rory 0 Posted July 22, 2003 Oh yeah my dads got some stuff you paint onto rust (driveshafts,wishbones etc) that seems to have a chemical reaction to the rust then turns black when dried. Thought that might make it look a whole lot better and slow down the corrosion. Anyone had experience with this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rams 0 Posted July 24, 2003 You better off wrapping sealed plastic bags around the electrics and getting it seamed cleaned with th eengine running a constant revs to ensure no water gets in. Make sure you cover everything, it will take a while but the preparation is the key. Once that is all done, get a mate to sit in th ecar and rev gently but constantly while you use an engine cleaner, there areproducts like traffic film remover and degreasers, use all of them. I used the auto glym engine cleaner and mainly concentrate on the chassis legs and inner bonnet and slam panel and around the edges of the engine frame. Avoid direct aim with import electrical parts for 100 knowledge that your main parts dont get water logged. Then dry off, and keep the engine running to help dry up the water and get your misses toothbrush and glean all the small bits and give it another pressure / steam bath and dry and you should have a nice clean safe engine. What do you think to that suggestion?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites