*urgent please help* Clutch - updated 30/07/05

[swfblade 0]

(see my post dated Fri 29th July, 2005 for update)

 

Hi all, when Im putting foot all the way down on clutch pedal, the clutch still doesnt disengage.

 

I was driving home, coming off a roundabout, trying to change from 2nd to 3rd. I depressed clutch and tried to take out, but it was a bit hard and had to pull harder. Then when i tried to get into 3rd it wouldnt go in. Before i stopped i managed to get back into 2nd by revving, letting it drop and pushing in that way, obviously then its engaged straight away. That was the only way i could change gear to get home. However, it caused a problem when i stopped at a junction as I couldnt get into 1st at all, altho eventually I pushed really hard and it did go in, but the car stalled, as it was trying to pull away and my foot was on brake.

 

Anyway.....cutting a long story long, does anyone have any ideas as what is causing this? is it my clutch gone, or is it maybe the clutch cable/release bearings? or soummit else?

 

Cheers. :cry:

[StormVR6 0]

Could be as simple as your clutch cable has stretched, which if that is the case it will no doubt go soon. Normally if the release bearings are buggered you would hear a "whistling" noise which would disappear when the pedal is down. Could be the self-adjusting mech. (if you've got one) thats buggered or the release lever.

Although to be fair mate apart from the basics it could be a magnitude of things.

[Supercharged 2]

No clutch cable on Corrado's...

 

Does the bite point feel lower down (towards the carpet?) - If so, I'd be looking for a hydraulic leak, slave cylinder on top of gearbox is usually the first to go...

[StormVR6 0]

Oh, I didn't realise all C's had hydraulic clutches, I assumed older ones would be mechanical. And you know what they say about assumptions...

Silly me. :)

[swfblade 0]

there is no bite point. its always in gear, so to speak.

[RW1 0]

Most likely the slave cylinder has gone, item above the gearbox with a brake bleed niplle on it, connecting into a curly bit of pipework, then a rubber brake hose.

 

Alternatively, the brake reservoir fluid level is low and has dropped below the cluthc feed about 1/3 below the top of the reservoir top. Always keep this reservoir full to the plastic arrow impression on the side at the top near to the shoulder point.

[Neil VR6 0]

The old slave cylinders were cast metal and used to "infect" the hydraulic fluid with rust which can ruin the components (over a very long period of time). The replacements ones from VAG are now made from resin and don't suffer from this problem. :)

 

The best way to tell if you're suffernig form this is to see the colour of the fluid in the reservior/header tank on the left hand side of the engine near the bulkhead as you look into the engine. If it's brown, you're in trouble.

[swfblade 0]

brake fluid is fine, im a bit of a stickler when it comes to checking fluids, i always check em at least once a week, and i dont exactly do high mileage either!

 

Theres no leaks that i can see either.

 

Ive just had another look and the clutch does feel different to what it used to. U know the feeling when u put your foot down and when its past the biting point it feels different? well i dont get that anymore, it also used to "squeek" slightly when doing so, but doesnt now, so its like its not moving the clutch at all.

 

Does that sound like the slave cylindar then?

[Neil VR6 0]

Wouldn't know to be honest. :oops:

[RW1 0]

Does that sound like the slave cylindar then?

 

Does fit the slave cylinder isn't moving as you should be able to hear the clutch "mechanically" move.

[swfblade 0]

nice 1 guys, i'll get that changed over asap then ;)

 

Anyone got £40 i could borrow till payday? :lol:

[swfblade 0]

ok, im getting a new one 2day. anyone got any advice on fitting?

[swfblade 0]

Well i finally changed it, but its now made no difference whatsoever :cry:

 

So Im guessing its the actual clutch, or possibly the release mech?

[RW1 0]

Fit a piece of clear tubing to the clutch salve cylinder bleed nipple (about 12 to 18 inches long) and hold it vertical in the engine bay.

 

Open the bleed nipple and get someone to push the clutch pedal to somewhere near the bottom of the travel. Before releasing the clutch pedal, close the bleed nipple. Do this sequence twice to build up the fluid in tube.

 

Does brake fuid come up in the tube? Amount is not too critcal. Yes, the clutch master cylinder is OK and the clutch itself is suspect. If no, the the master cylinder is not working. If air comes out initially, then this was stopping the clutch hyraulic circuit operating properly and now you've released the air, it should work.

[swfblade 0]

we are changing the clutch now, but are finding it hard to remove the gearbox. can someone please tell me how to take the box out? my mechanic m8 is saying that he may have to drop the subframe to get it out?!? is this right or is there an easier way?

 

cheers.

[Supercharged 2]

What engine is it?? - don't think you have to drop the subframe on any corrado to get the box off...

 

Make sure you unplug the ECU whilst doing it!

[weedwhacker 0]

it is a g60.

when left em they were real greased up... having some problems.

i just poped over to say hello, but not properly dressed and dog in tow i couldnt be that much help to em.

i just hope they get it sorted to the mk meet 2moro.

good luck guys.

[CaiosG60 PWR 0]

You dont need to drop the rear sub frame. Once everythings all undone lift if from the under the diff (from the back so your tilting it forward) and waggle it about. Its should drop out like this although it involves a lot of swearing and knuckle scraping! :lol: :lol: Its not easy but it will go! If you still have trouble, remove the right hand side drive shaft with both the CV joints still attached. Gives you more room to play with.

[bix 0]

If it isnt the slave cylinder, then its more likely to be the master than the clutch itself, if fact I dont see how it could be the clutch itself :? Nasty job to be diving into :evil:

[swfblade 0]

ok, got the box out (more by luck than judgment hehe), and it is indeed the clutch that had gone. The springs on the clutch plate were shattered. not bad for 165k miles!!!

 

Considering that the new slave cylindar worked, i dont see how the master could not be working!!

[bix 0]

Hmmm :?

[RW1 0]

Well i finally changed the slave cylinder, but its now made no difference whatsoever ........

 

Considering that the new slave cylindar worked, i dont see how the master could not be working!!

 

Must go and learn to mind read at 150 miles range!! "New slave cyliner worked". Vital clue to help you missing mate. Glad you got sorted.

[swfblade 0]

no m8, I wasnt being funny, it was a ligitimat question! I dont fully understand how this all works. Perhaps i didnt word it right......

 

If the slave is pumping fluid, can the master still be broken? :?

 

(this is what i h8 about writing on the inter-ma-web, no-one really understands exactly what you mean, coz they cant hear ya voice!)

[bix 0]

Well yea if the slave cylinder is working, then there aint a lot wrong with the master, but what I mean is how can you tell the hydraulics are working if it dont disengage the clutch? Actually I suppose you would be able to feel the resistance of the clutch spring on the pedal :oops: But the way I read it was your pedal just goes to the floor with no resistance, which would indicate a hydraulic problem.

Ryan

[swfblade 0]

ahh no that wasnt the problem. the clutch pedal seemed perfectly normal, would go up and down as before, just felt different on the way down, as if the clutch wasnt disengaging (which it wasnt).

 

Now its just dropping to the floor, but thats coz i aint rebled the whole system after taking it all out. Wonder how easy it is to swap to a cable clutch...lol ;)