Arrow3 VR6 0 Posted July 26, 2003 Hey everyone. I just got a '92 C VR6 :D And I was wondering about a few things regarding modifications to be done to it. So far the things I would like to do include: -New wheels -New suspension(shocks/struts + springs) -Induction kit -Mods that add low-end torque I had a few questions regarding the mods. I'm interested in performing. First of all, any recommendations on the order I should have them done in? Secondly, any recommendations for Induction/intake kits? I live "on the other side of the pond" ;) but if there are Euro. co's that are willing to ship to the U.S. that's always a possibility. Finally, I was actually wondering, in general, what modifications help add low-end torque to C's? Thanks in advance for all help! Cheers guys! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted July 26, 2003 right alex it also all depends on how much you want to and can afford to spend i did the following to mine in this order too btw and costs are in £-sterling K&N panel filter....................£30 diy fitting Milltek cat-back exhaust........£330incl fitting AmD rechip..........................£300incl fitting Koni coil-over suspension......£640+fitting and geometry as for wheels i decided to get my originals refurbished.........but wheels are all down to personal taste Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 26, 2003 Hi and welcome! Number 1 priority is the suspension. This allows you to do more with the standard power and brakes. You might want to consider stronger engine mounts too since stopping that great lump of pig iron moving around also helps the handling, like you wouldn't believe. I recommend Koni Top adjustables all round, H&R sport springs and a Neuspeed 25mm rear anti-roll bar. That my friend, would be a great start! Kev Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 26, 2003 Increasing torque on the VR is not cheap. A pair of 256 duration cams, Schrick VGI manifold and a rechip gives UK 2.9 engines around 20bhp and about 40-50lb/ft torque. That lot will set you back over £2000 GBP though. A Supercharger or turbo (American tuners are very clued up on this) is another option, but again very expensive. Kev Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted July 26, 2003 agree with kev there about doing the suspension first...............you'll be amazed at the transformation a good quality set-up will do to your handling Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 26, 2003 Aye, I fitted my Neuspeed 25mm rear bar today and wow!! It's a different car! It's still on the stock suspension too, so when I get my Konis and H&Rs done in August, it's going to be even better!! I like the Neuspeeds. They're very different to the de facto Eibachs, hanging a lot lower, giving more leverage. They're adjustable too, ideal for track days. Just got watch the rose joints as they can seize. Kev Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arrow3 VR6 0 Posted July 26, 2003 K&N panel filter....................£30 diy fitting You only recommend fitting a new filter to the stock induction kit? Have any of you heard anything about Neuspeed's P-flo induction kits? They seem to be extremely popular over here in the states. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 26, 2003 P-flows have been popular for some time now but it's an old design now. People now find it is better to route a pipe into the hole where the carbon canister lives, resulting in oodles of cold air flow, which engines like. The stock airbox has been optimised for torque and induction noise reduction, but can be restrictive higher up the rev band. I personally would only consider an induction kit (such as Turn-2's system) if I had performance cams or a supercharger. That's just me tho as I hate induction roar. Kev Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 26, 2003 Roddy, has your Koni setup bedded in yet? Have you tweaked the firmness and found the chassis to be a lot more solid feeling? Kev Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arrow3 VR6 0 Posted July 26, 2003 What's the carbon canister used for in the car? And any pictures of the CC setup? Would removing/relocating it result in an emissions(don't know what they're called in Europe) violations? What kind of pipe is used..or is it basically just like setting up a cold-air intake system? Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 26, 2003 The carbon canister soaks up petrol vapours and is an integral part of the emission reduction system. The VR6 needed it to get through the Euro emissions, not to mention the even stricter US emissions. I understand Bill Gates had the emission laws relaxed in the states anyway, so that he could import a McLaren F1, that's power for you! Most people disconnect the CC system as it simply entails blocking off one pipe, but not the fuel tank return one! There is a massive thread about it on this forum. It can also be moved easily enough, removing the air box will reveal all. Yeah it's just cold air-intake. It goes through the hole (after removing the air box) and a K&N filter attached at the end. Have a look here, http://www.turn2usa.com Kev Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted July 26, 2003 Roddy, has your Koni setup bedded in yet? Have you tweaked the firmness and found the chassis to be a lot more solid feeling? Kev yeah they should be bedded in by now..............i've still got them on their softest settings tho :oops: haven't got round to tweaking them yet as i'm still exploring the handling limits just now :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted July 26, 2003 K&N panel filter....................£30 diy fitting You only recommend fitting a new filter to the stock induction kit? Have any of you heard anything about Neuspeed's P-flo induction kits? They seem to be extremely popular over here in the states. Cheers. sorry alex,its just what i've fitted to mine,my airbox has also been modded too with the superflous plastic insides(inc snorkel) removed and the inside also smoothed with a bigger aperture too........i had this done prior to getting the exhaust fitted and it made a notable difference in throttle response and of course gave a nice induction roar :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arrow3 VR6 0 Posted July 26, 2003 sorry alex,its just what i've fitted to mine,my airbox has also been modded too with the superflous plastic insides(inc snorkel) removed and the inside also smoothed with a bigger aperture too........i had this done prior to getting the exhaust fitted and it made a notable difference in throttle response and of course gave a nice induction roar :lol: Oh okay, gotcha ;) That makes more sense. Is the Turn2 Cold-Air induction kit at turn2usa.com only available there? Or are there distributors that carry it for less? It seems like a really nice kit as it even provides instructions for relocation of the CC it appears! Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joe M 0 Posted July 26, 2003 Aye, I fitted my Neuspeed 25mm rear bar today and wow!! It's a different car! It's still on the stock suspension too, so when I get my Konis and H&Rs done in August, it's going to be even better!! I like the Neuspeeds. They're very different to the de facto Eibachs, hanging a lot lower, giving more leverage. They're adjustable too, ideal for track days. Just got watch the rose joints as they can seize. Kev What difference does it make to the handling just adding a rear bar? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted July 27, 2003 Twaddle the lot of it! I am however interested in knowing something about the cams if anyone is clued up the specs for these engines! Nitrous gives you the most torque and is the cheapest and qiuckest and doesn't knack your engine unless you're stupid! Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joe M 0 Posted July 27, 2003 mmmmm, nitrous.......... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted July 27, 2003 Twaddle the lot of it! I am however interested in knowing something about the cams if anyone is clued up the specs for these engines! Nitrous gives you the most torque and is the cheapest and qiuckest and doesn't knack your engine unless you're stupid! Chris BTW whats twaddle? and how can u not be stupid with nitrous tho :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: LOL tho i don't know how cheap it would be in the long run with all the bottles you would use for the fun of it :wink: but suppose its worth it :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stormseeker 0 Posted July 27, 2003 mmmmm, nitrous.......... What's the difference between the blue and the red injectors??? :?: :?: :?: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
macca 0 Posted July 27, 2003 Chris VR6nos Was checking out the Wizzard of Nos site and it does seam very cheap for performance gains, so why arent more using it? Chris, what sort of loading will you insurers add on to yopur policy? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted July 27, 2003 mmmmm, nitrous.......... What's the difference between the blue and the red injectors??? :?: :?: :?: Blue is Nitrous Red is Fuel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted July 27, 2003 Chris VR6nos Was checking out the Wizzard of Nos site and it does seam very cheap for performance gains, so why arent more using it? Chris, what sort of loading will you insurers add on to yopur policy? Insurers will have a laugh !!! :lol: :lol: :lol: They wont go near it :? James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Edwards 0 Posted July 27, 2003 If you really want to boost the torque at low rpm you have 2 options: Shrick/VWM VSR (moves the torque peak down to 3500rpm and sticks another 40ftlb on top. More torque from 2500-5500rpm than the original peak value); AAA series inlet manifold (more restrictive, but boosts low-down torque) The former will cost a couple of thousand to buy, fit and have set up. The latter can be bought 2nd hand for less than £100. Pays your money and etc... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm 0 Posted July 27, 2003 Guys, I'm interested in your views on engione mounts, when I am gunning it (all the time) I cannot hurry the gearchanges as the box baulks, is this engine mounts or miss aligned gearstick? As my car now has 85k on it its got to need new mounts. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted July 27, 2003 Why does everyone assume you need to replace engine mounts? They should last the life of the car, more or less..* *- assuming no obvious abuse or extremes of cold/heat applied - but that's the same for all the rubber components on your car. I'd say replace if they fail the MOT (they are checked) and otherwise ignore unless you're feeling really flush... :-) M. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
