CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted July 27, 2003 Front mount is most common to go (ask anybody here !!) but you will know when your front mount is gone :shock: the engine will want to jump out when you pull away ect.. :( Gear cables are more likley worn .... Can you give a bit more info on "box baulks" :D Cheers James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted July 27, 2003 Why does everyone assume you need to replace engine mounts? They should last the life of the car, more or less..* *- assuming no obvious abuse or extremes of cold/heat applied - but that's the same for all the rubber components on your car. I'd say replace if they fail the MOT (they are checked) and otherwise ignore unless you're feeling really flush... :-) M. If you drive around at a nice pace and dont wheel spin ect..ect..The mounts should last for the life of the car ,But the mounts are constantly under pressure from engine braking, acceleration, cornering ect so the more miles it has the more likely for the rubber to perish and split and more so the front one due to the force its under when you accelerate.. Another point ...when you uprate the engine power the mounts will have to work alot harder .. :shock: Try using N.O.S the mount will rip itself apart :shock: Cheers James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arrow3 VR6 0 Posted July 27, 2003 ...and a Neuspeed 25mm rear anti-roll bar. Kev This the kind of anti-roll bar u referring to? -> http://www.neuspeed.com/products/produc ... o&p_id=262 Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stormseeker 0 Posted July 27, 2003 ...and a Neuspeed 25mm rear anti-roll bar. Kev This the kind of anti-roll bar u referring to? -> http://www.neuspeed.com/products/produc ... o&p_id=262 Cheers I would guess it was http://www.neuspeed.com/products/produc ... o&p_id=710 - "anti-sway bar" US = "anti roll bar" UK. (The one you posted = "tie bar" US = "Strut brace" UK) I think.... Looks like that URL breaks the forum posting code somehow, you might have to cut & paste for it to work.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Edwards 0 Posted July 27, 2003 DR MAT, You seriously think the rubber bits in your car will last the lifetime of the vehicle? Maybe if it's rust prone, but otherwise rubber perishes with time/heat/use, plus it wears away. The attached picture shows what happens to the top mounts of the rear suspension over time (9 years and 160k miles). On the subject of front engine mounts in a VR, the construction of this item means that over time it compresses allowing the engine to thrash around (making it more likely that things will break) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arrow3 VR6 0 Posted July 27, 2003 ...and a Neuspeed 25mm rear anti-roll bar. Kev This the kind of anti-roll bar u referring to? -> http://www.neuspeed.com/products/produc ... o&p_id=262 Cheers I would guess it was http://www.neuspeed.com/products/produc ... o&p_id=710 - "anti-sway bar" US = "anti roll bar" UK. (The one you posted = "tie bar" US = "Strut brace" UK) I think.... Looks like that URL breaks the forum posting code somehow, you might have to cut & paste for it to work.... Ohh, okay thanks. Why can't they keep all these terms constant, good lord! I would suppose you can get the bars for cheaper though from other distributors, so I'll look around. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm 0 Posted July 27, 2003 James the engine does feel as if it moves around alot, how much would cables be? Cheers Rik. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted July 27, 2003 It would be best to sort out your engine movment first mate.. As for cables i dont c the need for buying new ones unless the ball ends are worn,but you can adjust them on the gearbox end.. James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm 0 Posted July 28, 2003 Oh well thats more to add to the list, so far I need: 4 shocks + springs + top mounts / bearings, rear discs, pads and wheel bearings. Oh and two tyres. Anyone lend me a fiver or two? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted July 28, 2003 You seriously think the rubber bits in your car will last the lifetime of the vehicle? Well not in all cases, no. Just that I get the impression around here that a lot of people replace lots of things all the time, just because. If you know what I mean. I work in IT, and I know people replace too many bits of hardware here when there's nothing wrong with it... Admittedly, my VR is "only" 7 years old, so it's pretty young and spritely compared to many here, but I've already had to replace the rear suspension bushes, so I know the rubber bits wear out. (And being a VW you have to almost dismantle the whole car to replace the rear bushes...) Anyway, I'm going to stop now before I say any more about wearing out all the rubber bits!! ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 28, 2003 AAA series inlet manifold (more restrictive, but boosts low-down torque) God, it's like 16V ownership all over again. And just like the 16V, the VR seems to get better with age and some engines are just really strong in general and some aren't! Which explains why one motoring mag couldn't get their test example to 60 in less that 7.5 seconds. Kev Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scott 0 Posted July 29, 2003 AAA series inlet manifold (more restrictive, but boosts low-down torque) God, it's like 16V ownership all over again. And just like the 16V, the VR seems to get better with age and some engines are just really strong in general and some aren't! Which explains why one motoring mag couldn't get their test example to 60 in less that 7.5 seconds. Kev Couldnt agree more ..... I had my old valver rolling roaded (1.8 16V) and in standard form with nearly 120k miles on it - it was producing 138bhp / 122lbft torque.... higher than VW figs.... My VR rolling roaded with 102k miles on it at 192bhp / 185LBft torque.... standard form again.... although thats now changed :wink: So it does prove these engines get better with mileage - I drove my mates Storm about 3 months ago with 72k on the clock and let him have a go in mine and straight away he said that mine revs up quicker and feels a little faster .... all down to the mileage I feel! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andi 2,147,483,647 Posted August 3, 2003 Mine should pull like a b**** then - will clock over to 189k miles today... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted August 5, 2003 Twaddle the lot of it! AAA pfffff! Get serious. Learn to drive the engine instead of just the car. There is no point using AAA stuff to give lower rev torque as the engine comes on song over 4k pretty much because of head design etc so to restrict the top end with an AAA manifold is twaddle plus they are a different pin pattern so you'd have to use the smaller throttle body. Twaddle! Chris. Buy a Nos kit and stop messing around, i'll give you some discount! ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted August 6, 2003 Bow down to the master 8) Kev Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turn2 0 Posted August 7, 2003 I stumbled on here by accident! :) The minimal requirement to notice the power on the Turn2 intake is just a eprom chip upgrade. Power can be felt right from the initial drive. The intake sound is much quiter than the typical cone filter setup. Some may like the roar, but ours are more stealth like. The front lower motor mount is liquid filled and fails the most often. Just out simple Stage 1 will make a large improvement in daily driving, with virtually no side effects. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 1 Posted August 7, 2003 Nice to see some companies coming by to share the knowledge.. welcome :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
